cndh
New member
Has anyone got any tricks of the trade to remove the rear wheels of my MF135. The nuts have been loosened off, it's just a matter of manhandling the wheel and getting it back on
Has anyone got any tricks of the trade to remove the rear wheels of my MF135. The nuts have been loosened off, it's just a matter of manhandling the wheel and getting it back on
GoodMornin Ray,
Gee that gantry crane looks very nifty !!!
Did you get it through Northern, and how much was it if you domt mind me asking ?
I can see how handy that would be for similar jobs, or splitting tractor etc...
Do you remove the exhaust to go under the olive trees? I'm thinking about a horizontal exhaust for mine to work in the woods.Here are the rears on my 1964 MF135 diesel.
View attachment 312969
They are BF Goodrich 6 ply 18.4-16A tires (18" wide, 16" dia rim, 40" tall overall) and are loaded with water. My guess is that each weigh at least 350 lb loaded, probably more. Haven't had to remove/replace these yet, but that day may be coming.
My 135 is a field tractor that's been modified to squat low for mowing/discing in the olive orchards around here. The front axle spindles have been shortened to keep the tractor level with that BFG rubber.
Has anyone got any tricks of the trade to remove the rear wheels of my MF135. The nuts have been loosened off, it's just a matter of manhandling the wheel and getting it back on
I always just use a hydraulic jack so I can easily raise or lower the tractor to the exact height. This is a good time to have a helper to look at the holes to get the alignment perfect rather than pump, check, pump, check etc.Put some linoleum down on the floor or (if your on a smooth finished concrete floor) under each wheel. Jack and secure each axle side so the wheel touches the floor but can be rocked from side to side.. If you can't rock the wheel it needs to be jacked up just fraction more. The lugs must be centered on the drum holes with no pressure on the lugs. Since your dealing with filled tires, you should have a hefty helper to assist. You should be able to rock the tire in a Z pattern pushing at the center of each side. This rocking motion, you should be able to walk the rim from the drum. The tire has to touch the floor enough to walk it off the drum.
Putting the tires back on is basically the same as removal. If the tire seems it needs to be a fraction higher, then roll on to some cardboard enough to get the correct height so the lugs are centered with the rim holes. This may take a while to rock the wheel in a Z pattern to finally match. Have your tranny and H/L in neutral to turn the drum to line up. if you get the top nut on, your on your way.
Push come to shove, you could drain the tires and save the tire fluid afterwards, refill. -kid