Best attachment for levelling out lawn dug up by wild boar

[Novice Brit]

Curious what other uses you have for the box blade and rake?

I use all of these mentioned attachments and get good results out of them. For a novice a box blade has the longest learning curve when attempting to get a good finish. I use a box blade more often when I need to change grade on a field, for instance when I need to reshape areas requiring a cut and fill. If you need to make larger cuts and move the dirt into low areas to make corrections the box blade is a good choice.

Where I need to perform smoothing tasks where the dirt is moved a minimal distance such as you describe a land plane grader scraper(lpgs) or fel bucket is my choice. I use a fel bucket when it is a small job because it is handy and or available without the need to change rear implements. The lpgs is much easier to use on larger areas, does a good job of smoothing over bumps and holes and is an easy attachment to utilize for a novice. Most people use a lpgs to smooth driveways and gravel roads, I find that they are also good for smoothing lawn and field areas too.

I use landscape rakes primarily when I need to collect surface debris and perform minor smoothing. Great tool to have when you need to do clean up tasks. I find I use them more when starting a job and need to clear the debris such as sticks, vegetation and surface rocks that deter finish grading. While you can use them to smooth a field they are not as good for this as a lpgs which is more precise.

I find that having top and tilt for the 3 ph is very beneficial, particularly for box blade work. I would buy the tnt before any of the secondary use implements on my list.

If it were me and starting from scratch I would buy a tractor with fel, landscape rake if there is lots of surface debris, lpgs and a tiller. I would consider whether I could get by with steel posts and simple post driver for the fencing and hold out for a hydraulic auger buy or rent when needed. A seeder or broadcast spreader is another useful tool, depending on the need you may be able to get by with a walk behind while getting started. I am fortunate to have a good variety of implements to work with but I did build these up over the years. If money is tight you really need to think about which implements are the most useful and save you the most time and labor.

Here are a few pics of the implements I use the most for lawn and pasture smoothing and grading along with a post hole digger. While I have a large and small landscape rake, box blade, tiller, lpgs, and seeder the ones pictured get the most use.

Thanks a lot, really appreciate the time you have given this. The box blade is intended for boar affected areas, other uneven areas and aiding restoration of a short gravel driveway. The landscape rake for maintaining the driveway when renovated and gathering of waste material as i clear brambles. There are a lot, I had blackberries that concealed large fruit trees! The fruit trees are now exposed but there are a lot of blackberries elsewhere. Points taken re lpgs, suspect the landscape rake if heavy duty enough can aid restoration of the driveway. Like the sound of ease of use of the lpgs, sounds the way to go for a complete novice like myself, thanks. Ordering a FEL with the tractor so looks like I have planned something right.

I think you are right re landscape rake, lpgs and tiller for starters (also getting a flail mower for grassland and keeping the scrub down after initial cut) along with probably a seeder as it looks like I'll end up re-doing the lawn and want to seed a couple of acres with wild flowers. Was hoping to avoid the tiller initially but might have to bite the bullet.

Thanks for the piccies, nice, you certainly have some gear.

Dave

 

[Gary Fowler]

I have not had good experience using a box blade or landscape rake where established sod is prevalent. The sod just clumps up and makes both tools pretty useless. Both are good for loose soil when little to no grass is involved.

I find that using the FEL and pushing and back dragging work to fill in holes better than most any other tool. You can push the dirt back in going forward then smooth it out by back dragging. Only practice will get you the knowledge to get the right angles on the FEL bucket so that it digs in, but not too much. Back dragging is pretty easy and just need to watch what the dirt is doing behind the bucket and adjust up or down as needed. Usually 5-10 degrees past flat is sufficient for smoothing while back dragging. You want the cutting blade portion to be slightly down but not enough that dirt is piling up behind the bucket.

Sometimes just back dragging in an X configuration to the hole is all that is needed to drag the dirt back level and no need to push forward with the FEL. Pushing dirt takes a lot of practice to keep from digging in too much.

 

[Egon]

Cheers Egon,

Will look out for gauge wheels.

re Trichinosis, you are just trying to spoil my barbecue vision......

Best

Dave

Gauge wheels you may have to make yourself.
Practice really helps but geometry of tractor and back blade combined with the three point controller make for very difficult control. Smoothing is easy but getting all consistently even is another matter.

 

[Novice Brit]

I have not had good experience using a box blade or landscape rake where established sod is prevalent. The sod just clumps up and makes both tools pretty useless. Both are good for loose soil when little to no grass is involved.

I find that using the FEL and pushing and back dragging work to fill in holes better than most any other tool. You can push the dirt back in going forward then smooth it out by back dragging. Only practice will get you the knowledge to get the right angles on the FEL bucket so that it digs in, but not too much. Back dragging is pretty easy and just need to watch what the dirt is doing behind the bucket and adjust up or down as needed. Usually 5-10 degrees past flat is sufficient for smoothing while back dragging. You want the cutting blade portion to be slightly down but not enough that dirt is piling up behind the bucket.

Sometimes just back dragging in an X configuration to the hole is all that is needed to drag the dirt back level and no need to push forward with the FEL. Pushing dirt takes a lot of practice to keep from digging in too much.

Hi Gary,

I have a feeling I am going to end up thanking the wild pigs for the experience gained. I will definitely give the FEL a try using your tactics (good description by the way), I think I have been talked out of the box blade at least until I have more experience.

Thanks

Dave

 

[Dr_Zinj]

Bah. .30-06 is for boar is for panty-waists. I understand Cabellas has a really nice boar spear for under $100 for those of us who want to prove how manly we are when it comes to hunting dangerous big game.

 

[Novice Brit]

Gauge wheels you may have to make yourself.
Practice really helps but geometry of tractor and back blade combined with the three point controller make for very difficult control. Smoothing is easy but getting all consistently even is another matter.

Ahh, showing my ignorance re gauge wheels. Just about convinced to leave the box blade 'boxed', it doesn't sound the tool for a tractor 'virgin'.

Thks

Dave

 

[Novice Brit]

Bah. .30-06 is for boar is for panty-waists. I understand Cabellas has a really nice boar spear for under $100 for those of us who want to prove how manly we are when it comes to hunting dangerous big game. View attachment 413940

Count me in with the panty-waists

 

[Egon]

Ahh, showing my ignorance re gauge wheels. Just about convinced to leave the box blade 'boxed', it doesn't sound the tool for a tractor 'virgin'.

Thks

Dave

Ahh--good move. Box blades work very well for some jobs.

Learn all about the float position for the loader. The curl function works well when back dragging. If your gonna dig make sure you start out level and keep it that way.

 

[texasjohn]

Well, the first trick is to catch/kill your hog....then just cook it up done...no worries about the trichinosis as long as proper cooking preparations are followed...no trich to it!! People in Texas eat wild hog all the time. I have a bunch in my freezer right now.

Shucks! Panty waists use a spear...Texas boys simply grab hold and hog tie them...literally...see link below for step by step instructions...

Hunters bag, tie 790-pound “BoarZilla” hog | The Flash Today

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I have not had good experience using a box blade or landscape rake where established sod is prevalent. The sod just clumps up and makes both tools pretty useless. Both are good for loose soil when little to no grass is involved.

I find that using the FEL and pushing and back dragging work to fill in holes better than most any other tool. You can push the dirt back in going forward then smooth it out by back dragging. Only practice will get you the knowledge to get the right angles on the FEL bucket so that it digs in, but not too much. Back dragging is pretty easy and just need to watch what the dirt is doing behind the bucket and adjust up or down as needed. Usually 5-10 degrees past flat is sufficient for smoothing while back dragging. You want the cutting blade portion to be slightly down but not enough that dirt is piling up behind the bucket.

Sometimes just back dragging in an X configuration to the hole is all that is needed to drag the dirt back level and no need to push forward with the FEL. Pushing dirt takes a lot of practice to keep from digging in too much.

Gary, do you think a Ratchet Rake on the FEL would help? Or would it just dig up too much of the grass? I was thinking he could back-drag with a Ratchet Rake (lightly) and then take it off to smooth it out with the bucket cutting edge.