Features best included at time of purchase

[rScotty]

I hear you, but some larger tractors didn't get that figured out either.

Aiming the exhaus at thefront tire on Kubota's M59 makes a sooty mess all over the tire, wheel and nearby parts.... and then when revved up the exhaust refects straight back into the face of the operator. Clearly nobody at Kubota tried it before finalizing the design.

It was about the first thing everyone comments on when running the tractor. Even the salesman mentioned it.

But how important is that? All it takes is fifty bucks worth of flex pipe and clamps from Amazon to run the exhaust anywhere you want.
rScotty

 

[rgr33]

That’s going to be one fine tractor when you get it Torvy

probably better prepare yourself for sticker shock though.

 

[Torvy]

A few things I didn't mention because I didn't think of it...yes, SSQA on all that are still being considered. Rear tires will be filled. Seems most dealers around here use water with an antifreeze fluid of some sort. It is supposed to hit 20 degrees tonight. That is on the low end of our 'typical' winters here. Almost never gets to zero.

I am thinking for my needs, R4 makes the most sense. If 14s were on it, OK. My preference is for the wider tire for stability and I will rarely, if ever, plow. More concerned with puncture resistance than the additional traction, in my case. I am also shooting for one with the fuel fill down low, we aren't getting any younger. No plans to use quick hitch on the back, just not a big deal to me and something I could add later if I change my mind. The HST is only a consideration if the linked throttle is in there, too. Power shuttle would be nice, it will likely come down to tradeoffs.

For those who haven't read other posts of mine on this...I am a serious data nerd. I have a huge spreadsheet with 11 makes and pretty much every CUT or small utility under 60HP in it. Seat details are hard to find. I am watching a lot of brand specific YouTube of late to figure it out. Most with arms have them move up as needed. I've been to the dealers on most of these, the problem has been having the target inventory available to drive.

My top contenders... TYM 494 or 574: Branson 20 series; LS MT3 series; Kioti DK or NS series. (this would include the CaseIH, NH and Bobcat versions of those)
I'd like to consider the Massey 2800M series...but, 2 of the 5 dealers they have near my property are no longer selling MF, but are still on MF dealer locator.

 

[mo1]

I would add to the list that the front bucket attach be the SSQA type. There isn't any downside and lots of upside on a 40+ hp tractor. Get the spare front hydraulic control - called a 3rd function - then with SSQA it is easy to swap in a grapple or other front implement.

It's a personal preference as to tires and weights. Mine is for Industrial Tread and cast iron wheel weights. The industrial tread has more side stability and less tearing of turf - both are nice to have in a mowing machine.
But many would prefer Ag tread instead if doing mostly ground engaging tilling and plowing. And there's a certain "look" to ag tires which appeals to some tractor buffs.
Cast iron wheel weights vs liquid fill is more a personal thing; nice to have but expensive.
Good Luck,
rScotty

Most compact tractors only offer a skid loader quick-attach. Deere is the obvious exception as they offer the "small" Deere quick-attach on all of their compact loaders and the option of a skid loader QA on some of them. The Deere QA setup in my opinion is the easiest and most foolproof one out there, personally I find it quicker and easier to use than the skid loader QA. The main downside to it is that there are fewer attachments which use JDQA vs. skid loader QA, particularly at rental yards.

Tire choice depends mostly on intended usage. Ag tires clearly have the best traction of the bunch. Industrials are less aggressive but also are generally a sturdier/tougher tire than most ag tires and are sometimes chosen for that reason.

Cast iron wheel weights on air-filled tires vs. no additional weights attached to fluid filled tires depends some on the kind of tires being run and some on personal preference. Cast iron weights on air-filled tires appears to be more common in guys who run radial ag tires as the fluid fill diminishes many of the benefits of those more-expensive radial tires. Some people will have both cast iron and fluid filled tires if they need the weight.

 

[paulfun9]

Then don't put them on your list... I wouldn't buy anything else, but hey... That's me.

Again I ask why? But as always you have nothing with any real foundation to add!

 

[Torvy]

Again I ask why? But as always you have nothing with any real foundation to add!

I get why, I just don't agree unless the price is close. With cars, I will pay more for a Toyota because of a long track record of measurably better reliability. I have 3 Toyotas and a Subaru right now. The Subaru is only 3 years old and has had more problems that the 2013 Camry. The kids car (Matrix) runs fine but has really brittle exterior door handles. Just my long way of saying I get brand loyalty. Kubota is bigger in terms of dealerships and sales, but that doesn't always mean what I care about.

 

[wolc123]

Loaded rear tires and a block heater are the only options that I added the last time I bought a new tractor (in 2005). I have not regretted either of those, nor have I regretted not adding any other option.

 

[RoyJackson]

In retrospect, I wish I had 4th and 5th function rear remotes before the 4052R tractor was delivered. At minimum, it would have saved a couple hundred bucks pickup and delivery fees. I don't have a trailer, nor is my Tacoma big enough to handle a trailer and 5000# tractor
The only thing I did add were 3 bucket hooks which I use frequently (might be a little less frequent since I bought pallet forks a few months ago)

 

[paulfun9]

I get why, I just don't agree unless the price is close. With cars, I will pay more for a Toyota because of a long track record of measurably better reliability. I have 3 Toyotas and a Subaru right now. The Subaru is only 3 years old and has had more problems that the 2013 Camry. The kids car (Matrix) runs fine but has really brittle exterior door handles. Just my long way of saying I get brand loyalty. Kubota is bigger in terms of dealerships and sales, but that doesn't always mean what I care about.

I still don’t get it. My kubota s were not nearly as comfortable as others, didn’t last any longer, and that dreaded tredle pedal would have me only buy an other if the cost was much less. Something one has to compromise on and live with to me lowers value substantially.
As for Toyota, my experiance wasn’t as stellar as some with one blown engine before any real miles and one small truck back in the day that rusted so fast you could probably set in a lawn chair drink a beer and watch it’s progress. But not much back in those years seemed to not rust too fast.
Subaru? Again not much luck here but some family members seem to be happy with them. They are the type that pay regularly at the dealership for scheduled and all recommended maintenance.

Me I do oil and filters at regular intervals and anything more I consider repair. I have heard too many fooled with the trick of calling a timing belt regular maint, when in fact it’s a repair. I can’t count how many times someone tried arguing that repairs on thier car for many different things were just maintenance items while bragging about how long the car lasted and how great it was, but if a 20 dollar water pump on a Chevy goes south it’s junk. So a set of suspension bushings, 2 cv joints, a throwout bearing or a transmission flush, filter is just normal maintenance why is the 20 dollar water pump a major break down. You still drive both home running one cost 20 bucks and a trip into town the other took you a loner car 5 days and several hundred bucks to tell me how great it is?
Out of the import cars I have had best luck with Nissan and Hyundai.

 

[RoyJackson]

Subaru? Again not much luck here but some family members seem to be happy with them. They are the type that pay regularly at the dealership for scheduled and all recommended maintenance.

I've owned a SAAB (old 2 stroke Model 96) and a Subaru (Early 2000's Outback). As long as SAAB and Subaru were simple cars, they were great and, in my experience, quite reliable.
As soon as they went upscale (what we used to refer to as "Yuppified"), they really went to crap. Same with Volvo, but maybe not to the same extent.
I'm happy with my Tacoma and unlike the older models, isn't a rust bucket (I've read that years ago the Tacoma pick up beds were made in California...and those beds were the real problem).
If I were to buy a car today, I think I'd be looking at a Mercedes Benz 240D or 300TD. These are 30-40 years old now, but they're still around