Electric over hydraulic remote setup?

   / Electric over hydraulic remote setup? #31  
The valve might not have a PB port.

It could have one or two IN or OUT ports

Show some up close pictures.
 
   / Electric over hydraulic remote setup?
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Its only in and out, no other ports on it.


If you read the rear plate on my tractor in the first pic is say "use only open center remote valves". I think i may just get a service manual and see if there is a hydraulic diagram in there. I dont know how much closer of a picture you need, I was right there and thats all you can see of the valve. Again the valve is getting replaced anyway so im not too concern with it, mainly concerned if I can hook up and open center valve block and be fine. I'll try calling a few dealers maybe they've ran into it before as well.
 
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   / Electric over hydraulic remote setup? #33  
No idea what the fifth hose from the log splitter valve is. Only you can figure that out.

Just remove the log splitter valve, as it is not the proper valve anyway.

Obtain a 3 spool valve with PB and put it where the log splitter valve was or close by. The PB from the loader would connect to the IN port of the 3 spool valve, the PB from the 3 spool valve would to to the return port on the tractor as it probably feeds the 3pt. Run another hose from the OUT port of the 3 spool valve to a return line from the loader valve or dump it into the filler cap.

Use one of the spools for the grapple, and the other two for the T-N-T.

That's it, done.
 
   / Electric over hydraulic remote setup?
  • Thread Starter
#34  
I might be wrong, but looking at how the line runs, I don't think that you need a valve with power beyond. I think that you can just run the pressure line from the left side of your loop to the pressure port on a valve and then have the tank line off of the valve go back to the right side of the loop. I'm thinking that the side marked return just dumps into the tank and does not go any place else. If this is the case, then you do not need the 3rd power beyond line that has been talked about.



I think you're right. My tractor is identical to a JD 790 and I've seen pictures of thise hose plumbed directly to a valve on the fender and right back to the open port on a john deere 790. I dotn know why these tractors are so similar but looking at them is eerie, same **** tractor! I think it will work just as it is. Thinking the valve I have now is just not the right one for the function.
 
   / Electric over hydraulic remote setup? #35  
I think you're right. My tractor is identical to a JD 790 and I've seen pictures of thise hose plumbed directly to a valve on the fender and right back to the open port on a john deere 790. I dotn know why these tractors are so similar but looking at them is eerie, same **** tractor! I think it will work just as it is. Thinking the valve I have now is just not the right one for the function.

Remove the return line at the case and look inside. If there is a tube, then it most likely goes on to something else. If it just dumps into the case, well, it just dumps back into the case and for sure no power beyond is needed. Pretty simple actually. ;)
 
   / Electric over hydraulic remote setup? #36  
Only the OUT port on the remote valve would dumps to tank.

There may be two ports on the side of the tractor, one for the PB, and the other one for the OUT/return.

All the valves should be in series, so the PB output from the remote should go to the 3pt port on the side of the tractor, and the OUT line would go to tank port.
 
   / Electric over hydraulic remote setup?
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Ok, so I finally got word from the factory and got the "factory" rear remote kit instructions and took a look at them. All this kit does is take pressure from the pump BEFORE any valves and routes it through a normal looking valve (does not appear to have PB as there only 4 hoses) and then this fluid pressure goes into the loader valve which is suppose to be the first valve inline. Mind you this is the factory kit instructions. That seems sort of odd its not a PB valve.

I plan on doing the same thing just downstream between the loader valve and the 3pt valving. \


I have the instructions if anyone wants to see how its "suppose" to be done, this would be for a JD790 as well.
 
   / Electric over hydraulic remote setup? #38  
Are you talking about the hyd block on the side of the tractor? If so, that block is capable of high pressure.
 
   / Electric over hydraulic remote setup?
  • Thread Starter
#39  
No, this is the factory add on remote valve they locate on the fender, just like most guys here are doing. Instead they plumb it between the pump and loader valve, before the loader valve to be exact. Looking at how the lines are run in the system pressure comes from the pump up to the top of the transmission case into a series of pressure relief valves(which i see on the diagram). From there it goes out of this into a high pressure line which then connects to the loader valve (Loader has a "P" on this port so I know its the inlet to the loader valve.

All they do is take this high pressre line out and put the applicable fittings in and run that pressure through their 'rear remote" valve. 4 lines total, pressure, return and two work lines. Thats it! From the remote valve it goes straight into the loader valve. The loader valve is obviously a PB valve as it has the other two ports, tank and PB clearly marked.

Its wierd a factory would do this as there would be obvious backpressure on the valve when operating the loader. If you PM me your email I can send the file over to you so you can examine it, its a .PDF file.

Like I said Im doing the same thing, except my lines come out downstream of the loader valve itself.


Btw- this is an 800$ option and is maybe 200$ in actual parts.




Ps- I just asked the factory for the instructions to see how they did it and this is what I came up with, with their instructions. Its clear as day what they are doing, i just dont understand the no PB valve.
 
   / Electric over hydraulic remote setup? #40  
I imagine that the OEM valve has a high pressure rating on all 4 ports where as the $200 valve that you have mentioned most likely does not. Stuff use to be plumbed like this all the time.
 
 
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