Refurbishing my Z145 135

[The kid]

I just reinstalled my rears myself on my MF35 had to swap innners and outers to bring the spacing in after removal of the loader. Mine are loaded 14.9-24 520 lbs plus the rim each so It was fresh in my mind<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=286337"/>

I've got a two ton car jack and put a block of wood on the swivel head pimped it up to almost the point of lifting the wheels. loosened all the nuts then barely lifted the wheels off the ground and swapped them around. would that be considered a tire rotation? :laughing:

Hey your 35 looks great. In no way would I have tried to swap those wheels of mine loaded by myself. -robert

 

[BobG_in_VA]

I've got a two ton car jack and put a block of wood on the swivel head pimped it up to almost the point of lifting the wheels. loosened all the nuts then barely lifted the wheels off the ground and swapped them around. would that be considered a tire rotation? :laughing:

Hey your 35 looks great. In no way would I have tried to swap those wheels of mine loaded by myself. -robert

Did you notice the tractor/front end loader in the background...that's how you do something like that.....by the way Kid, why did you decide to pull that plunger/spring, etc out anyway? Did it not work? BobG in VA

 

[The kid]

Did you notice the tractor/front end loader in the background...that's how you do something like that.....by the way Kid, why did you decide to pull that plunger/spring, etc out anyway? Did it not work? BobG in VA

Bob, All I've used it for since I bought it is bush hogging. There was quite a bit of slack in it. It was froze up solid. I would just imagine it didn't work properly. Since I was giving the outside a good going over and while I was swapping out a leaking PTO seal I noticed the dust boot was barely hanging there. What I saw being the boot didn't look good. So I decided to swap it out I am going to put some anti-siezing compound on the retainer ring. I have read several way to adjust it without special tools. I may get some 1/4 steel and make a spanner for it. I have a set of plans I found on the net.

If I take the tractor down to where I have some more property and my son now lives he'll be able to use it to plow the garden with. He has an old 9N his grandmother gave him he's using now. I'd like to be able to say "everything works" on it.

 

[bucktaker]

Did you notice the tractor/front end loader in the background...that's how you do something like that.....by the way Kid, why did you decide to pull that plunger/spring, etc out anyway? Did it not work? BobG in VA

If only i was that lucky ... the MF35 was in the garage facing the wrong way. It was bottle jack and floor jack and determination not to get hurt

 

[The kid]

If only i was that lucky ... the MF35 was in the garage facing the wrong way. It was bottle jack and floor jack and determination not to get hurt

I'll say this Buck. You got some brass to take on that type of job by yourself. I've heard too many horror stories to try that. :thumbsup:

 

[The kid]

Replacing the Hydraulic Cover Lift rear Boot (part 4)

Now it's time to reassemble the rear draft spring assembly. The control head has two pressed in bushings that need to be inserted that was salvaged from the old spring head. This is basically done in reserve as they where removed by heating the head and either pressing them back in or pounding them as I did. I used a 1 1/4 1/2" drive socket that was perfect as a spacer. I put the link rocker and the spring head together and applied heat. Then pounding each bushing in. One is slotted and that end is where the clevis goes which holds the pin.

Basically there are just a few parts to the draft spring assembly. You have the plunger rod, Seat cup for the spring, Spring, Spring Retainer Nut, Head that screws into the plunger rod, and the dust cup.

When puting this back inside, first drop the draft control in the down position. This allows a small pin inside the spring housing to drop inside the housing allowing the plunger seat to drop all the way in.

One thing I noticed was the new spring seat diameter across was too big. I compared against my old one and ground it down and kept test fitting untill it slid in without forcing.

I mounted the plunger on the seat and then put the spring on and slid it in. The manual says it can be adjusted two ways either with the screwdriver slot of the retainer ring. I chose the first which I think was the easiest. I oiled up all the threads really well on the plunger and retainer. I also gave the plunger a good coat and the entire retainer a coatt of oil. Next I screwed on the retainer ring (the one I beat the old one off in the beginning). Your suppose to use a special spanner while tightening this but it can be done with a screwdriver a mallot and chasing it around untill the spring barely rattles inside.

Next is installing the spring head. This is the part you see on the outside ( the one I couldn't get loose and had to cut the plunger in two in earlier pictures)

I installed the rubber boot (more oil on the boot) positioned it to screw onto the plunger I use a long screwdriver down the center hole and screwed the plunger onto the head. I pulled it in untill the head barely rattled. Next after I pushed the rubber boot in place I put the allen set screw back in which locked the retainer from unscrewing.

Now all that's left is inserting the 9mm allen bolts back in one both sides that locks the saddle to the spring head. Pictures to follow.

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I got one of the fenders on to check fitment. Perfect fit. :thumbsup:

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[Lava Rancher]

Looking at your pictures I'd bet my draft control isn't working. Looks like you'll be done in a jiffy.

 

[The kid]

Looking at your pictures I'd bet my draft control isn't working. Looks like you'll be done in a jiffy.

Mine had quite a bit of slack in it, so it's safe to say it probably wasn't working. I don't even use it. Yet that is. I bought the tractor to bush hog some acreage. Since I was looking for possible mechanical problems I decided to take the plunge and tear into it. If the assembly hasn't been serived in awhile, your probably looking at a similar task. Shona13 (Hutch) was a big help in a few shortcuts when I ran in problems (hacksaw the plunger). Now that that part is done I can get back on the wiring, and getting the front hood on. I started mounting some custom switches and led lights on the dash test fitting everything before giving the dash a spray. The original type enamel paint takes several days to cure well enough to handle without marking it up. Once it hardens up it seems to be quite durable.

 

[The kid]

Throttle Lever upgrade mod

I just got a Sparex part I ordered to try to modify to work with my Continental Z145 throttle linkage.

The original lever assembly was (I was told by the parts guy) discontinued 19 years ago. So my options where shortened. The bushing that goes through the dash was half worn out. The lever chrome was badly pitted. The lever would have to be seperated from the mounting hardware if I where to have it rechromed. Chrome is pricy even for a little part as that.

I got to looking at what was avaialable in the UK and US. After speaking with a well read counter guy at a AGCO dealership I decided on a Sparex part S.43647 Both levers will have to be cut to length and the old lever end will be welded on to the new lever in the exact positioning. This should be a easy mod to do. The bushing on the new parts fits nicely into the dash as it should. Many just repaint the lever and that looks great too. I decided since I was adding new gauges and some extra switches I might as well put a new lever on as well. This should give the dash a very finished look.

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[The kid]

Adding or Replacing a stabilizer bar

I was bush hoggin in the back field and there where quite a few saplings I was chewing up. One of them snagged my front lynch pin going to the right lift arm on the three point hitch. The bar fell and dug in and bent to almost a U shape. I'm going to heat it up and repair it next summer. In the meanwhile I went to TSC and bought two of their "country time" adjustable stabilizer bars.

Notice in picture two there are four holes to select to mate to your stabilizer bar. I've seen kits that offer to flat bars and attachment points similar to mine.

If your tractor doesn't have stabilizer bars, you should really consider investing in a pair. It's not the difficult to install the hardware and sure keeps the rear implement from doing the rumba behind you. I have a few pictures showing what to do on my old MF135.

I measured from the front point to the rear lift arm swivel which was apporxiamtely 33.5 inches. I adjusted the bars to match attachment points. I then put a slight bend in each eyeley in opposite directions to make them fit better.

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TSC sells these for around $39 each which is what I'm using. I'm going to paint them red except for the ends.
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These are heavy duty pins TSC sells which have twice the strength of their cheap ones. I now have them on the front lift arms.
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