Cab for snow throwing (GC2400)
- Thread starter blackd
- Start date
Okay. But then, you can't really complain about it.
Keep in mind, the seat switch is really not meant to turn the tractor off, if you fall out of the seat. Because, your supposed to be wearing the seat belt, making that pretty much impossible. It's just there to turn off the tractor, if you forget to take it out of gear, before dismounting it, with the engine running.
its the forgeting to take it out of gear or turn off the PTO that worries me with the brother .. and my stepfather was pulling logs for firewood and his old TO35 popped out of gear and took off down the hill .. he bailed fortunately but the tractor hit the only tree big enough to stop it .. anything that may help with safety is allways a good idea with them .. i'd rather not have it but its not my toy lol i'm just the mechanic and the one that gets talked into freezeing to clear the driveway .. positive side . first time since it was purchessed 2 years ago it started in the cold with no problems and did its job without complaint and it is a COLD day .. the wind had the machine covered in snow and me frozen in a matter of minutes but with numb hands i still got it done .. stopping to thaw half way through lol
it is a great little machine when it runs ... :thumbsup:
it is a great little machine when it runs ... :thumbsup:
Because it is a hydro, this tractor is going to take off down the hill, in gear, out of gear, running, or not. Even putting the parking brake on, is not going to guarantee it will be there when you come back. If you park it on a hill, the only sure thing is to lower all attachments to the ground, set the brake, and chock the wheels.
Just ask WACKY about that.
Well here's the latest changes. Put project on hold. Had to go up to MI, Mom was in the hospital.
I still need to build the driver side door and mount windows (will look like other side shown), mount the front & rear windows, and cut and install top. Then I can dismount from tractor and paint it.
I still need to build the driver side door and mount windows (will look like other side shown), mount the front & rear windows, and cut and install top. Then I can dismount from tractor and paint it.
Attachments
MF RED in MT
Veteran Member
Hey blackd, do not forget the rack on the top for the surf boards, and you will have a real MF tractor woody, :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:. Just joking, it really looks good and should work real good, :thumbsup:. Just a thought, if your windows do not last with the cold maybe you could switch to the clear plastic in rolls used for indoor storm windows. KC,
Thanks! I had considered the 20 or 30 mil marine plastic sheeting. I didn't discard it, just went another more readily available direction.
BTW, total costs to date are:
Windows, paint, and screws $152
Miscellaneous hardware ~$20
Cab build total costs $172.
Now, I had the wood, metal, and T111 sitting around. If I had to add those I think the costs would be ~ $75 higher. My cost baseline was the Sears $239 soft cab which would still require a frame or modifications to the one provided.
For those with a GC 23/4/600, attaching on the FEL and ROP mounts makes for a very secure cab. I was somewhat concerned over the strength of the metal I used as it flexed some, but once the cross members were installed the whole thing got very firm. At this time/version the whole cab will come off by removing 10 nuts and bolts and one single screw. The top will come off with removal of four screws.
I just bought a hydraulic motor on ebay for converting from the manual chute rotator, and will soon look for light options. I may eventually need some heat. By the time this whole project is finalized I think it will have cost $300-350 for a hard, heated lights nearly weather proof cab.
The real benefit to DIY is its easy to change/improve after the fact. You built it, you know where/what can be improved.
BTW, total costs to date are:
Windows, paint, and screws $152
Miscellaneous hardware ~$20
Cab build total costs $172.
Now, I had the wood, metal, and T111 sitting around. If I had to add those I think the costs would be ~ $75 higher. My cost baseline was the Sears $239 soft cab which would still require a frame or modifications to the one provided.
For those with a GC 23/4/600, attaching on the FEL and ROP mounts makes for a very secure cab. I was somewhat concerned over the strength of the metal I used as it flexed some, but once the cross members were installed the whole thing got very firm. At this time/version the whole cab will come off by removing 10 nuts and bolts and one single screw. The top will come off with removal of four screws.
I just bought a hydraulic motor on ebay for converting from the manual chute rotator, and will soon look for light options. I may eventually need some heat. By the time this whole project is finalized I think it will have cost $300-350 for a hard, heated lights nearly weather proof cab.
The real benefit to DIY is its easy to change/improve after the fact. You built it, you know where/what can be improved.
blumenfeld pagan
New member
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2010
- Messages
- 19
- Tractor
- Kubota BX2230
I bought a Bercomac cab:thumbsup: and am very pleased wit it. Easy to mount and with a 12volt heater off of Ebay, it is not too bad inside. Cost of cab here in Canada about 400.