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  1. #31
    Member SPDRMNKY's Avatar
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    Feb 2013
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    27
    Location
    Kansas
    Tractor
    Mitsubishi D2650FD

    Default Re: mitsu D2650FD...gettin' started

    well, here's the overflow tank installed...I'll work on a better system, but for now zip-ties will do



    had to round the hard edge of the hood over a bit for clearance, but it's a pretty clean fit

    here's the next hassle...replacing the hydraulic pump



    I was excited for this one...going from 5gpm to 9gpm for only $350...better than the $600 OEM pump

    but, the new shaft has a shoulder down near the seal that hits on the drive gear and doesn't let the pump seat



    so...unless there's an adapter plate and longer studs, or some other solution, I'm gonna have to go OEM

    I'm going to pull the front cover, where the power steering pump would sit, and see if I have any options

    any experience with this? cheers!
    aspire to goodness, not greatness

    fab always costs $$...whether fabulous or fabrication

  2. #32
    Bronze Member Utah Bison's Avatar
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    Mar 2013
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    52
    Location
    Utah
    Tractor
    S650G Bison Ferguson TO30

    Default Re: mitsu D2650FD...gettin' started

    Could you mill down the drive gear .050 or bore its end open a bit for clearance?
    Just some ideas.
    Lee

  3. #33
    Member SPDRMNKY's Avatar
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    Feb 2013
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    27
    Location
    Kansas
    Tractor
    Mitsubishi D2650FD

    Default Re: mitsu D2650FD...gettin' started

    well...it's been a while, but here's catchin' up

    I decided to go the spacer route...1/8" aluminum and an extra gasket



    not too bad...as long as the stud holes lined up there was some room for error...all by hand, BTW (glad it was aluminum)



    I recommend this gasket for lots of things...I've used it for chainsaw cylinder base gaskets and carb gaskets, and now a tractor hyd pump gasket



    oooo...shiny



    a clean install, all things considered...definitely not OEM fitment, but it's working. had to use flange nuts on the studs, but locktite will keep them in place, and had to stack washers on the hyd connection bolts...tacky but effective...if you're careful.



    and then I took this picture thinking "hey, hey, hey...you've accomplished something boy"...



    yeah...



    yes, that's the block face...(sigh). coolant going out the overflow was getting worse, so the only thing left was the head gasket. somebody let their pet monkey replace the head gasket on this tractor before. they even used black RTV when installing the new one...ARE YOU FRIGGIN' SERIOUS? yes...black RTV.

    here I'm groaning about some monkey before me, and what did I then do...you guessed it...installed the head gasket upside down and backwards...FMR. figured it out when coolant poured out the front of the block. anyway...

    got my headbolt torque specs and torque order included in the box with the gaskets from NCW. 108 lb-ft for mine since they were all "big" bolts.

    He also had a pair of rebuilt tilt cylinders sitting around, so I replaced the oversized ag ones on the FEL...though I didn't take a pic.

    this is what can happen when you install the head gasket incorrectly, and then have to reinstall it...they only like to be compressed once. the bubbles stopped after about 10 mins.



    while I was at it, I had a buddy gusset the loader support arm to clear the exhaust pipe...did a good job.



    so now the tractor runs...mostly. I've spent several hours mowing, with only a couple stops to blow out the radiator. I also helped the neighbor put up hay...so far no "problems". the only remaining symptom I don't like (other than leaking oil in a couple spots) is the radiator doesn't like to keep coolant above the fins. my overflow tanks is darn near full, but the tractor is running plenty cool. I don't friggin' know. maybe a new radiator is needed when I replace the clutch this winter? maybe the water pump bolts on, but just flows too much coolant for this setup?

    I'm just glad to finally get some use out of her after all these months.

    cheers!
    aspire to goodness, not greatness

    fab always costs $$...whether fabulous or fabrication

  4. #34
    Veteran Member Kernopelli's Avatar
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    Oct 2006
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    1,583
    Location
    Carterville, Illinois
    Tractor
    Mitsubishi MTE2000D, Dig It 258 Backhoe

    Default Re: mitsu D2650FD...gettin' started

    Good job!! I am curious about the new 9GPM pump. I would love some more flow and had even considered a second pump ran off the crank, PTO pump etc. Where did you get the new one, what is it originally for/off of and did the OEM pressure and return fittings bolt right to it? ( actually, I can see in the pic that the stock Mitsubishi return line fitting bolted up OK)

    Edit: BTW, I paid about $350 for my used stock pump when I cracked the AL casing on the original. If you have no further use for the old one, clean it up and throw it on Ebay and you can probably recoup the money for the new one.
    Last edited by Kernopelli; 06-27-2013 at 10:21 PM.
    Darryl

  5. #35
    Bronze Member Utah Bison's Avatar
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    Mar 2013
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    52
    Location
    Utah
    Tractor
    S650G Bison Ferguson TO30

    Default Re: mitsu D2650FD...gettin' started

    Isn't it great to finally get to work your tractor.
    After all the time your tractor has worked you.
    Nice Job...
    Lee

  6. #36
    Member SPDRMNKY's Avatar
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    Feb 2013
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    27
    Location
    Kansas
    Tractor
    Mitsubishi D2650FD

    Default Re: mitsu D2650FD...gettin' started

    Quote Originally Posted by Kernopelli View Post
    Good job!! I am curious about the new 9GPM pump. I would love some more flow and had even considered a second pump ran off the crank, PTO pump etc. Where did you get the new one, what is it originally for/off of and did the OEM pressure and return fittings bolt right to it? ( actually, I can see in the pic that the stock Mitsubishi return line fitting bolted up OK)

    Edit: BTW, I paid about $350 for my used stock pump when I cracked the AL casing on the original. If you have no further use for the old one, clean it up and throw it on Ebay and you can probably recoup the money for the new one.
    I'm happy with the new pump so far...much quieter than the old pump...but I didn't know my old pump was loud until I changed it. The headache is fitment, as I detailed. I got this pump from NCW, and the box it came in obviously came from Turkey...the instructions were badly translated to English (in the Turkish style) also. The pressure and return lines bolt up fine...except...the OEM bolts are too long. I stacked washers to take up the slack (which is a bit redneck), but a guy could probably find shorter bolts.

    I hadn't thought about ebay...though I wouldn't want to have sold that pump to anyone. I pulled it apart to see what might be wrong (maybe I could rebuild it?), and the housing (inside) was scratched and scored all to heck. The pieces are now in my random parts bins.

    I was hoping for a rebuild so I could add power steering, or rear hyd connections...maybe later.

    Quote Originally Posted by Utah Bison View Post
    Isn't it great to finally get to work your tractor.After all the time your tractor has worked you.
    Nice Job...
    Lee
    yes.
    aspire to goodness, not greatness

    fab always costs $$...whether fabulous or fabrication

  7. #37
    Veteran Member Kernopelli's Avatar
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    Oct 2006
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    1,583
    Location
    Carterville, Illinois
    Tractor
    Mitsubishi MTE2000D, Dig It 258 Backhoe

    Default Re: mitsu D2650FD...gettin' started

    I have been really pleased with NCW. The owner seems to be very familiar with Mitsubishi's specifically, is very nice/helpful and in general, have very competitive pricing.

    Edit: I guess I had missed the fact the old pump was shot......I just assumed you replaced it simply to get more flow. Great find on the pump! I wish I had known there was a high flow replacement when I replaced mine with another stock pump 5 yrs ago.
    Last edited by Kernopelli; 06-29-2013 at 11:09 AM.
    Darryl

  8. #38
    Veteran Member
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    Jun 2010
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    1,378
    Location
    Southern California
    Tractor
    International Harvester 284, Yanmar 1401D, Yanmar 240

    Default Re: mitsu D2650FD...gettin' started

    I know it's been awhile since this thread was active, but I wanted to compliment SPDRMNKY on a wonderful job taking photographs and explaining in clear detail what he did. It's a great example of how a thread should be.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kernopelli View Post
    I have been really pleased with NCW. The owner seems to be very familiar with Mitsubishi's specifically, is very nice/helpful and in general, have very competitive pricing.
    Earlier in the thread I commented that I had a very bad experience with NCW, but your experience, as with SPDRMNKY's, sounds nothing at all like mine. Maybe I caught them during a bad couple weeks, or was not dealing with the owner, but repeated good experiences should certainly outweigh a single person's bad one. I haven't ordered from them again, but if/when my Mitsubishis need anything, I'll definitely give them a shot.

  9. #39
    Member SPDRMNKY's Avatar
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    Feb 2013
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    27
    Location
    Kansas
    Tractor
    Mitsubishi D2650FD

    Default Re: mitsu D2650FD...gettin' started

    thanks 284I...appreciate it. I've had bad experiences with parts houses before, and then gone back a year later because I was out of options and we became fast friends...people are weird (myself included).

    an update worth noting: I think I've solved the cooling system hiccups I was having...ie: too much coolant in the overflow tank and below the fins in the radiator. there's lots of sediment flowing around in this old tractor, so a while back I cut the tube that goes down into the tank a little shorter...the intention was to get it out of the sediment in the bottom of the overflow tank. at first nothing changed...then she sat for several weeks while I was busy out of town. when I got back to her, the overflow tank was almost empty. I checked under the cap, and had to add about half a cup. now...works perfectly! I'm no expert on overflow tanks (obviously), but if you retrofit one to your tractor, maybe try cutting the tube that goes down inside a little short.

    the tractor's been working good lately getting the last of my firewood hauled home for the season. I need to replace three seals on the front axle (input and two at the hubs), though tightening all the bolts definitely helped.

    cheers!
    aspire to goodness, not greatness

    fab always costs $$...whether fabulous or fabrication

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