mitsu D2650FD...gettin' started

[SPDRMNKY]

so, while I'm waiting on funds to fix a few other things, this just cost me time and a few pieces of firewood

the bucket was bent by the previous owner trying to pop a stump :dance1:

it took a few hours, and a couple heating attempts, but she's a lot closer to straight than before (within 1/8", and used to be about 3/8" out)

the bucket really isn't that strong, and would benefit from a bolt-on, or weld-on cutting edge...maybe in time

when attempting this, I recommend a stiff breeze coming from the rear quarter of the tractor...keeps those flames away from flammables

and a big sledge used "gently" starting from the middle and working out both ways

yes, the little red bottle of white dust was on standby...cheers!

 

[caferacermike]

Man that's looking good.

How about moving that ground wire from the radiator tin over to the alternator mount? Might get a better ground and it won't ever fall onto the alternator pulley or cooling fan.

 

[Kernopelli]

NICE looking rig! The bucket cylinders you mentioned earlier look pretty burly, at least a 1/2" larger bore than the lift cylinders. They might be part of the bent bucket issue....those may be burly, big bore,bucket bending cylinders :thumbsup:! The previous owner probably knew/noticed they had some additional umph and was betting on the bucket being stronger than the stump. ( Back to the short tilt at full lift height)-The cylinders look like they should be about the right overall length. I bet the bucket end clevis design (it's long) makes the attachment point right but at full lift height the cylinder's short stroke is revealed. If the time comes, it looks like you need cylinders about that long but with a little more stroke.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

Man that's looking good.

How about moving that ground wire from the radiator tin over to the alternator mount? Might get a better ground and it won't ever fall onto the alternator pulley or cooling fan.

thanks. unfortunately, that ground wire has to stay until I get the time to figure out what's preventing good ground between the front sub-frame (battery) and the block (starter).

NICE looking rig! The bucket cylinders you mentioned earlier look pretty burly, at least a 1/2" larger bore than the lift cylinders. They might be part of the bent bucket issue....those may be burly, big bore,bucket bending cylinders :thumbsup:! The previous owner probably knew/noticed they had some additional umph and was betting on the bucket being stronger than the stump. ( Back to the short tilt at full lift height)-The cylinders look like they should be about the right overall length. I bet the bucket end clevis design (it's long) makes the attachment point right but at full lift height the cylinder's short stroke is revealed. If the time comes, it looks like you need cylinders about that long but with a little more stroke.

me thinks yer' on-ta sum'thin' there...8" of stroke is about 4" too short by my guesstimate. I'm probably going to order the replacement cyl's (even though they're $175 ea), so I have a point of reference/departure for the future. now if'n I could only find that money tree...?

 

[Kernopelli]

now if'n I could only find that money tree...?

Hehehe...I hear you!! By far the best luck I have had purchasing hydraulics has been on Ebay. Sometimes takes long, patient watching to get a deal but they are there. My last hydraulic purchase was a NIB 6 spool backhoe valve ($1000+ retail) for about $40 incl. sh. I have had excellent luck watching this ebay store Industrial, Home Garden items in cylinders store on eBay!. They don't always have cylinders and don't always have matched cylinders for sale ( patient watching!) but I have got some smoking deals on cylinders, pumps and valves from them. They also have great deals on lathe and mill tooling ( recently bought $150 pack of indexable lathe bits for $6.xx incl sh), drill bits, electrical items and many other items!

 

[SPDRMNKY]

here's one for ya'll...

when I replaced the water pump, I put the tractor back together without the thermostat...and it started spitting antifreeze out the overflow

thought it might be too full and just finding its level...nope

thought it might be the rad cap, so I replaced it (16 psi)...nope

found a 180F/82C thermostat and reinstalled it...well, that's better, except
- if I bring the tractor off idle before the thermostat has opened it'll squirt out about 2 cups of antifreeze
- if I wait until the thermostat has opened, it'll run fine all day
- and once, I had it in the garage...it had been shut off for about 30 mins (cool spring day), and I went to start it again and it immediately dumped almost a gallon of antifreeze out the overflow

I'm pretty well at wit's end...maybe the new waterpump is too high volume (flow)?

thoughts?

 

[skylarkguy]

I can't imagine the pump is too high a volume. But maybe.
You should check too see if the exhaust from compression is making its way into the cooling system and overpressurizing it.

 

[SPDRMNKY]

I had the valve cover off to check head bolt torque...all tight

When the thermostat was installed, you could open the rad cap on startup, and watch the coolant just sit there...no bubbles

Also, no white smoke out of the exhaust...ever...and nothing in the oil

I haven't had the head off, and I haven't done a pressure test of the cooling system, but...

if I let the tractor warm up until the thermostat opens, then there are no issues...none...but it seems weird to have to do that? which is what makes me think something isn't quite right in the cooling system...?

 

[Utah Bison]

When you reinstalled the theromstat did you also reconnect the bypass hose system?
Possable without a bypass the pump cavates and can't pump or gets a air lock.
I believe you also want to run the coolant level a couple of inches below
the radiator neck. To allow for expansion.
Just a couple thoughts.
Lee

 

[SPDRMNKY]

I did reconnect the bypass hose system, and I'm okay with "low" coolant levels, but not down below the fins.

Talked a bit about it with the NCW tractor guy yesterday, and he's sending an overflow tank on Monday...also have a hyd pump coming, but that's another story.

I think there's space down near the battery to mount the tank. I think this is the right solution...I had considered it briefly, but said to myself, "nah, these old setups didn't have an overflow tank, so there must be something else wrong."

thanks for the inputs fellas! and I mean that...I find collective knowledge more useful than operating in a void.