pvhogie
New member
just curious what everyones opinion is for their machine. My usual rpm is 2000 but lower when operating hoe.
best operating RPM?
- Thread starter pvhogie
- Start date
It is RARE that I need to take mine over about 1400 RPM.
I can get 540 off the 1,000 RPM shaft a little below that, but I only run the mower at a full 540 - OK, maybe a bit over.
For tilling and post hole digging I like to go slow.
For "delicate" back hoe work the tractor runs at an idle.
Even for quick and rough back filling I doubt that it is much over 1200 - not that I actually LOOK at the tach much now, it is a "feel" thing.
I can get 540 off the 1,000 RPM shaft a little below that, but I only run the mower at a full 540 - OK, maybe a bit over.
For tilling and post hole digging I like to go slow.
For "delicate" back hoe work the tractor runs at an idle.
Even for quick and rough back filling I doubt that it is much over 1200 - not that I actually LOOK at the tach much now, it is a "feel" thing.
Opti-Mist
Platinum Member
The worst thing to do to a tractor is "baby" it. The engine is designed to "work" and light loads are undesirable and result in things like oil consumption and blow by as rings don't seat, etc. On the other hand, one does not want to lug the engine either.
carpenter383
Platinum Member
If you have a hydrostat tractor then 2,000 ish rpm's is probably about right. They say it's bad for the hydrostat to run at low rpms.
jinman
Rest in Peace
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I think you'll be fine at 2000 rpm as long as the engine doesn't lug down under load. Surely, running your backhoe doesn't require any work from the transmission. In that application, whatever engine speed produces enough hydraulic flow would be my choice. If things move fast enough for you and the engine isn't loading up, I'd say you are good to go.
ToadHill
Elite Member
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I think each tractor has it's own "sweet spot" mine just sounds like it likes 1900 to 2100 RPM's best.
JC-jetro
Elite Member
The key is to give it what it needs under varying circumstances and no more. I don't know if there is a set number to hit the sweet spot. Probably 1700 to 2000 rpm satisfy most needs. With my soft garden spot dirt, I can till at 1700-1800 rpm with hardly any issue at all but if I'm going thru thick and tall brush, 2400 rpm and low speed is right mix for my tractor.
JC,
JC,
B'leeve it or not, that is EXACTLY what they do when they commission a ship.
The "old man" stands on the bridge and they run it up and down it's power range, every so often he shakes his head and that becomes a no-go area.
It is FEEL, it is intuitive, though it is probably based on resonances that suggest that it just shouldn't be run that way - and it won't be (-:
RickB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Opti-Mist
The worst thing to do to a tractor is "baby" it. The engine is designed to "work" and light loads are undesirable and result in things like oil consumption and blow by as rings don't seat, etc. On the other hand, one does not want to lug the engine either.
It's only a misconception in your view. Operating a diesel at low ERPMs doesn't allow the engine to reach operating temperature. A cold diesel is an inefficient one, leading to more combustion residue in the crankcase oil and unburnt fuel coating and perhaps eventually plugging the exhaust system. As Opti-Mist says, piston rings won't seat properly under light load/low temp/low ERPM. Hydrostatic transmissions suffer at low input RPMs because charge pressures can be low, oil flow to the oil cooler can be diminished, and the transmission's ability to transmit torque at low input speeds is a fraction of what it would be at rated speed. Consequently, hydrostatic oil temperatures can actually be higher than normal in this scenario. You may think you are doing yourself and your tractor a favor, but actually you are risking killing it with kindness. If you can run your tractor's cooling system between 180 and 210 or so, and keep clean engine oil in it, it's pretty hard to hurt the engine. A steady diet of cold engine is just as lethal as overheating, just slower.
Originally Posted by Opti-Mist
The worst thing to do to a tractor is "baby" it. The engine is designed to "work" and light loads are undesirable and result in things like oil consumption and blow by as rings don't seat, etc. On the other hand, one does not want to lug the engine either.
It's only a misconception in your view. Operating a diesel at low ERPMs doesn't allow the engine to reach operating temperature. A cold diesel is an inefficient one, leading to more combustion residue in the crankcase oil and unburnt fuel coating and perhaps eventually plugging the exhaust system. As Opti-Mist says, piston rings won't seat properly under light load/low temp/low ERPM. Hydrostatic transmissions suffer at low input RPMs because charge pressures can be low, oil flow to the oil cooler can be diminished, and the transmission's ability to transmit torque at low input speeds is a fraction of what it would be at rated speed. Consequently, hydrostatic oil temperatures can actually be higher than normal in this scenario. You may think you are doing yourself and your tractor a favor, but actually you are risking killing it with kindness. If you can run your tractor's cooling system between 180 and 210 or so, and keep clean engine oil in it, it's pretty hard to hurt the engine. A steady diet of cold engine is just as lethal as overheating, just slower.