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  1. #1
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
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    1,076
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    Cooke County, Texas
    Tractor
    JD4320 with TNT, electric diverter, cruise control and air suspension seat.

    Default Boomer Problems

    NH - Boomer Gotta Know Info Reply




    This thread is intended to document common problems, gotchas, or things to look out for on the New Holland compacts. Fixes, if any are known, should also be posted here. Hopefully, this will help prospective buyers and owners alike.

    Several people have suggested a thread along these lines, no one has started one. I'm far from expert, but have heard / experienced a few problems on my TC33D. I'll mention those, as well as a few others I recall to get the ball rolling. I'm not trying to start a NH-bashing thread. I'm very happy with my tractor so far. Forewarned is forearmed, however, and I'd like to know what to look for before the warranty runs out.

    I've posted the problems I'm aware of as separate messages, so that someone who wants to follow off a given subthread will have an easier time when lookiing in "Threaded" mode. Any of you with more known issues, please post them. If you think of it, modifying the title of your post will make things easier for others to track down. If you have clarifications or corrections to what I posted, please bring them up.

    John_Mc

    Edit: In retrospect, maybe this thread should have been started in the NH Owning/Operating forum, but it's here now, and I'm not about to copy it all to another forum.

    Edited by John_Mc (01/30/02 02:26 PM)

    Post Extras:

    John_Mc
    (Silver Member)
    01/30/02 01:51 PM
    Re: NH - Leaking Battery Acid [re: John_Mc] Reply




    "Leaking" battery acid. Apparently a good number of the NH compacts have been sold with the battery overfilled. It eventually leaks out (running on a hill, or when things get hot and expand. It can cause some nasty corrosion. The fix is easy: just remove some of the fluid. Be sure to check this, or have your dealer check when purchasing a new tractor. I've heard of this on both class II and III boomers. I'd assume it happens on class I as well.

    John_Mc

    Post Extras:

    John_Mc
    (Silver Member)
    01/30/02 01:54 PM
    Re: Neutral Safety Switch [re: John_Mc] Reply




    Safety Interlock on Range Shift Out of adjustment? Known to affect class II "D" (w/HST) tractors (maybe others as well). I've got this problem on my TC33D. There is a safety interlock which prevents starting the tractor when the range lever is not in neutral. There are two neutral positions the one one between I and II (the forwardmost one) and the one between I and III (the rear most one). The tractor always turns over when starting in the rearmost neutral. It turns over less than 10% of the time I leave it in the forwardmost neutral. Since it is sometimes difficult to shift gear ranges when the engine is not running, this can be a real pain in the butt. Workaround: always leave your tractor in the rearmost neutral position (between range I and III) when shutting down. I've heard this can be fixed by making some adjustment to the neutral safety switch, but have not tried it yet.

    John_Mc

    Post Extras:

    John_Mc
    (Silver Member)
    01/30/02 01:57 PM
    Re: Instument Panel Fogs Up [re: John_Mc] Reply




    Instrument Panel Fogs Up My TC33D has this problem. Have also heard of it on several class III boomers. Water/humidity gets inside the instrument panel and fogs it up under certain conditions. My concern is that this moisture could lead to premature failure of something in the instrument cluster (any thoughts on that possibility would be welcomed).

    Spoke to dealer about it as I was picking up the tractor from service: their reaction indicated that I was not the first they'd heard of this. Got no clear response from them at the time. I've not heard of a definitive fix. someone suggested drilling a small drain hole to let condensation out. Does this work? Anyone know of any other good tricks for this one? Does replacing the instrument cluster help, or are you just as likely to have a problem with the new unit.

    Post Extras:

    John_Mc
    (Silver Member)
    01/30/02 02:07 PM
    Re: Loose Bolts / Fittings [re: John_Mc] Reply




    Loose Bolts or Fittings Several members have complained of having loose bolts or fittings in various places on brand new tractors. OK, this is not specific to NH tractors, but I felt it should be mentioned for new tractor owners. Check things out thoroughly BEFORE you drive it. This SHOULD have been checked by your dealer prior to delivery, but not all dealers do this, and sometimes things slip by even the best of dealers. I had problems with loose/leaking hydraulic fittings on my loader valve and power steering. It also cropped up my Top-N-Tilt when newly installed... one hose was only finger tight. Pehaps others will post specific problem areas or critical items to check.

    Also: bolts can work loose over time. This is especially true of brand new equipment. Make a habit of periodically checking, especially on a new tractor, or after new equipment has been added. A little time now can save a lot of hassles down the road.

    Remember, the answer to a loose bolt is NOT ALWAYS to get out your biggest wrench and tighten it as far as you possibly can. Check the torque specs when in doubt.

    Post Extras:

    John_Mc
    (Silver Member)
    01/30/02 02:20 PM
    Re: "Unapproved" backhoes [re: John_Mc] Reply




    NH will not give warranty coverage for damage caused by use of unnaproved backhoes There have been cases of tractors cracking in two from using a backhoe that is too large/powerful with a given tractor. This is not specific to NH compacts, but is mentioned due to the popularity of many aftermarket hoes, and NH's stance on warranty coverage. Be especially carefull if using a 3 pt hitch mount backhoe. Most of the NH compacts are designed for a subframe mount backhoe.

    NOTE: Some NH litereature lists the NH 758C backhoe as approved for use on the NH class II compacts (TC25/25D, TC29/29D, TC33/33D). I have been told by my dealer that this is NOT correct, and that NH no longer approves the use of this backhoe on these tractors. Others have told me that their dealers have never heard of this, and that they are ordering the subframe kit to mount a 758C on a class II boomer. I suggest proceeding cautiously here, and get any assurances in writing from your dealer (and/or get it directly from NH).

    John_Mc

    Post Extras:

    lblair
    (Silver Member)
    01/30/02 03:02 PM
    Re: Neutral Safety Switch [re: John_Mc] Reply




    I have this problem with my TC21D. When it turns over it kinda sounds like a car with a dead battery...clickity clickity clack! If i giggle the high/low lever around she grabs and starts. they adjusted it but it still does it now and then sometimes, but atleast i know what it is.
    Larry

    Post Extras:

    nicklan
    (New Member)
    01/30/02 08:55 PM
    Re: NH - Boomer Gotta Know Info [re: John_Mc] Reply




    How about the "RUNS COLD" symptom. I have had my TC40D about two weeks (or 9 hrs of run time) and if I run about 2100-2300 RPMs doing loader work around my pole-barns, the temp gauge almost makes to the "green" zone.(Outside temps being in the 40's). I have not reported this to my dealer yet, so I don't know they will say. I have read on this site about every thread regarding it though.
    Thanks to all who make this an excellent site for new guys like me.
    Nick

    Post Extras:

    tpaulson
    (Bronze Member)
    01/31/02 09:06 AM
    Re: NH - Cold Running [re: John_Mc] Reply




    There are 2 common problems with Class III Boomers(TC35, TC40, TC45) running cool. I am not sure if the Class II Boomers have these problems also. My understanding is that Boomers should be at Normal operating temp (middle of the green section on the gauge) within 10 to 15 minutes regardless of the outside air temperature. An engine should not run cool for extended periods because of the increased wear that occurs. Before the dealer fixed the problem on my TC45 would just barely touch the bottom of the green after 2 hrs of hard use.

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    Problem 1:
    Coolant drain lines bypass the thermostat. There is a small (I think it is 5/16" dia) connecting hose from the block to the radiator so the antifreeze can be drained from a single petcock. If you are sitting on the tractor, it is on the right side of the engine. This hose can allow coolant to circulate from the block to the radiator without the engine warming up because it is bypassing the thermostat.

    If your Boomer is currently running cool there is an easy test to see if it has this problem. Clamp off or pinch the drain line between the engine and radiator about midway between the radiator and drain petcock. Use a small c-clamp or vise grips to pinch the hose temporarily. Cover the jaws with something and be careful not to damage the hose when clamping. If the engine warms up quickly and stays running at normal temperature you have the drain line bypass problem.

    The solution is to install a shutoff valve in the drain line. I have heard of 2 ways of doing this.

    Method 1: Install a new fitting on the engine block that has a threaded plug that acts as a valve. This is what my dealer did to my TC45D and is apparently the NH recommended fix. This method is also suppose to fix the coolant leak problem where the fitting threads into the block.

    Method 2: Insert a valve in the drain hose itself.
    Picture courtesy of kcbarnes.

    See this post for details of how to do this.
    Post76226

    Note: I had a hard time convincing the mechanic at my dealer that the drain line was the cause of the problem. The head mechanic hadn't heard of the problem. But, a couple hours later he called back and said he found a New Holland document describing the problem and that they would be out the next day to install a valve.

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------

    Problem 2:
    Defective thermostat. There is a small check valve ball on the thermostat. This ball allows the coolant to flow in the reverse direction so a cold engine can backfill. The problem is sometimes this ball can lodge itself under the lip of the thermostat forcing it to stay open. The possible solutions are to 1. replace the thermostat, 2. pry the valve open, get the ball free, and reinstall, or 3. pry the ball free and cut it off.
    Picture courtesy of jinman.


    For more info see these posts.
    Post94047

    Post94097

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------


    Note: Apparently not all Boomers have a cool running problem. Which is supposedly the reason New Holland hasnít started a campaign/recall to have them fixed. It also may be the case where the new tractors coming from the factory already have a fix in place. Also, I guess some non-Deluxe models donít have a temperature gauge so the owners may not know the engine is running cool. My TC45D built in August 2001 still had the drain line bypass problem.

    Post Extras:

    tpaulson
    (Bronze Member)
    01/31/02 09:34 AM
    Re: NH - Coolant leak [re: John_Mc] Reply




    Coolant leak on block drain fitting.
    There is a threaded fitting on the block that has a drain hose attached. This fitting frequently leaks around the threads. A lot of times the leak appears when the engine is cold. This seems to be a problem on a lot of New Holland engines for many years. Several people have commented that the cause is because the block and fitting are made of different metals. These different metals have different expansion/contraction rates.

    On my TC45D the dealer installed a different drain fitting on the block. The new fitting has a threaded plug that acts as a valve. This new fitting is also suppose to fix the cool running engine problem (drain lines bypassing the thermostat). This is apparently the NH recommended fix for the Class III Boomers.


    Post Extras:

    djradz
    (Silver Member)
    01/31/02 01:43 PM
    Re: NH - Boomer Gotta Know Info [re: John_Mc] Reply




    John, what a fantastic start. Don't have time now to add anything, but you already caught most of them. Changing in and out of ranges and 4wd still should be covered. I also just noted a sticking of my steering slightly as I start a right turn - will add that later too. Again, what a start!!!

    Post Extras:

    John_Mc
    (Silver Member)
    01/31/02 04:11 PM
    Re: Link posting request [re: John_Mc] Reply




    Request for those of you posting lo-o-ong links:

    Would you consider editing your post to give the link a shorter name so that we don't end up with the "wide page syndrome" requiring a lot of left and right scrolling to read the posts. This can be done by using the "url=" command, rather than the plain "url" command. For example: [ url=http://www.whatever.com/]title[/url] where "title" is what shows up on the screen when the post is read. (Note an extra space was inserted near the beginning to keep the board from posting my example as a link)

    Similar request for anyone who may post a wide picture which causes the same problem. If possible, edit image for a narrower fit than the typical screen width.

    Those of us without any spare screen acreage thank you!

    John_Mc

    Post Extras:

    John_Mc
    (Gold Member)
    01/31/02 04:16 PM
    Re: NH - Coolant leak [re: tpaulson] Reply




    Anyone heard whether this coolant leak problem has shown up on other sized Boomers (besides the class III size tpaulson mentioned)?

    Post Extras:

    djradz
    (Silver Member)
    02/01/02 04:38 PM
    Re: NH - Coolant leak [re: John_Mc] Reply




    Wow John, one post and you went from silver to gold - congratulations!! The bulletin that my dealer had, said it applied only to the Class III boomers, but personally, I think it's wrong. My old 1720, circa 1988 had the same problem and my friend's 1997 1720 also has the problem. NH says the Class III's are affected because of the heavy duty flow-through radiator design, but I honestly think that's just some spin. Yes, the Class III might be affected more because of this, but on any of the engines, if the drain is to and from the same points, then the thermostat is bypassed. In my case it goes all the way back to the 1988 Ford 1720. If I had a non-deluxe boomer I'd be especially concerned because you have no idea if the engine ever get up to normal temp. If I was in doubt, I'd either get the NH block-installed valve or put one in like shown in the post. I'll have to get a photo posted of the NH valve when my tractor comes back from the 50 service.

    Post Extras:

    RickB
    (Bronze Member)
    02/03/02 05:46 AM
    Re: NH - Coolant leak [re: djradz] Reply




    Class III Boomers use a cross flow radiator which is unique among Ford/New Holland compacts. This seems to magnify the problem of coolant bypassing thru the common drain. Not to say it isn't possible on vertical flow rad's, but in my experience, it isn't a common problem at all.

    Post Extras:

    tpaulson
    (Bronze Member)
    02/08/02 10:18 AM
    Re: NH - Cold Running [re: tpaulson] Reply




    Thanks to djradz for posting the part and bulletin numbers!
    Small leak thread


    In reply to:
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    The new part is SBA198736120, so start by odering and receiveing that. Next, the bulletin (#RQ11709) says you must then remove the winged-nut draincock fitting from it and set it aside. Then remove the old (possibly leaking) tap from the block and install the rest of the new fitting into the block. Then remove the hex-head draincock fitting from the existing common drain (the one the two hoses attach to) and put that fitting in the new part #SBA198736120. Lastly, take the winged-nut draincock fitting that came with the new part that was set aside and put that in the existing common drain fitting from where the hex-head draincock came. Sound simple enough? This works ok on my 40D, but on my dad's, both parts end up with a wing-nut draincock. Not a big deal I guess. Good luck to all!




    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------




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  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Posts
    97
    Location
    Mid West
    Tractor
    Boomer 33D

    Default Re: Boomer Problems

    At a 80 hours my front drive bearing / race began slipping in the front end. The dealer had this occur before and scarffed up the housing and it has been fine since - 180 hours.

  3. #3

    Default Re: Boomer Problems

    11 Feb, Minnesota:
    Yesterday I was out moving snow with my tc40d, snowblower and 17la bucket. HST. I was 45 minutes into the project when the engine started to act like it was going to die out. I thought perhaps the fuel was low but the gauge said 1/4 full. (I add Diesel fuel treatment to all my fuel.) I slowly crept back up the drive-way as it continued to nearly cut out about 15 times. I would stop, let it gain RPM and then continues forward each time until it bogged down again. I tried to see if there was any correlation to operating the PTO so I shut that off. This had no effect. I disconnected 4wd, still no change. I also operated the hydraulic lever. This did not seem to correlate either. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what may be the problem? The tractor has about 20 hours on it. Temp outside was 20 degrees F. My thanks to anyone ahead of time.

  4. #4
    Super Star Member Egon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
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    17,738
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada

    Default Re: Boomer Problems

    With only 20 hours on it the telephone to dealer should be first priority. Otherwise, only guess from very limited knowledge base, would look at the fuel filter.

    Egon

  5. #5

    Default Re: Boomer Problems

    Almost every time we get a tractor into the shop acting like this there is water in the fuel, 99% of the time. look at your fuel filter you should be able to see it there. change your fuel filter and use some extra fuel anti gel in your fuel.

  6. #6

    Default Re: Boomer Problems

    My 1630 had a similar problem last winter. Turned out I had ice forming on the fuel filter. Once I changed it and got everything bled out, it worked fine.

  7. #7
    Bronze Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
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    63
    Location
    Hartland VT
    Tractor
    Power Trac PT-425 (new June 26, 2011)

    Default Front Snowblower Bracket hits 16LA hydraulic pipes

    The idea is that you can swap out the loader for the blower w/o any tools. The subframe brackets for both fit at the same time, so in theory this is possible, and in fact, you can do this. Cool.

    The problem is the front bumper bracket that holds the front of the snowblower. There is about an inch of clearance between the bracket and the hydraulic pipes attached to the crossbrace for the loader. Works fine "in the shop". But when you start pushing with the loader/adding weight, the 1" clearance reduces to -1/2", thereby smashing the two pipes. This is bad. By the time I realized what was happening, it was way too late for those tubes.

    The solution? 1) A new set of pipes ($$), which fortunately the dealer saw fit to replace at no charge during the first service. 2) Remember to remove the bracket when you take off the snowblower and attach the loader (for me this is an annual affair). Not hard to do (a couple of bolts) but remembering to do it is the problem. And this ends the "no tools" theory. Funny, but even after the big ordeal of having the tubes replaced, when I put my loader on this year, I woke up in the middle of the night realizing that I forgot to take off that darn bracket. I can see me calling my dealer again...only this time I think I would be paying. 3) NH should relocate the tubes to the top of the brace (and also provide an armor over them) or bring the bumper in a little.

  8. #8
    New Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    1
    Location
    herington ks
    Tractor
    m190

    Default Re: Boomer Problems

    the tractor is a NH m190 from the UK it presant location is in Alaxandria egypt the problem is when the transmisson is in gaged the RPM drop of from 2000 to 900 and it will not pull a load. The dealers standard answer is the injector pump is bad this tractor has it third pump and still has the problem i know of at least 4 tractors in egypt with the same problem if any one can help it would be appreachated

  9. #9
    New Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    3
    Tractor
    Boomer 30 2011

    Default Re: Boomer Problems

    Very disappointed with my six months old Boomer 30, 37 hours on it. I got it supposedly new but it had 28 hours on it already. I do not know if this is normal. From the beginning I had problems. It would not start eight out of ten times I had to use it. Hand brake Security system was blamed and a spring was added to pull something to close or open, I do not know, the switch. That did not help. Seat security was blamed and the switch was disconnected. That did not help.

    Now it sits in my yard, not starting for the last three days.

    Lastly, when I press the horn button, the tractor stops, like if I closed the key.

    I called Now Holland customer service yesterday and I should have some news with in five days. Still waiting. I will ask for a new tractor or my money back.

    If I had a chance, I would buy a John Deer.

    P.S. Water got into the throttle cable and froze there and on the fuel injection lever where it connects to this cable. Had to put a new one in.

  10. #10
    Bronze Member drag_slick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    70
    Location
    ND
    Tractor
    New Holland T2220 SuperSteer, Kubota BX1850

    Default Re: Boomer Problems

    Quote Originally Posted by Nean View Post
    Very disappointed with my six months old Boomer 30, 37 hours on it. I got it supposedly new but it had 28 hours on it already. I do not know if this is normal. From the beginning I had problems. It would not start eight out of ten times I had to use it. Hand brake Security system was blamed and a spring was added to pull something to close or open, I do not know, the switch. That did not help. Seat security was blamed and the switch was disconnected. That did not help.

    Now it sits in my yard, not starting for the last three days.

    Lastly, when I press the horn button, the tractor stops, like if I closed the key.

    I called Now Holland customer service yesterday and I should have some news with in five days. Still waiting. I will ask for a new tractor or my money back.

    If I had a chance, I would buy a John Deer.

    P.S. Water got into the throttle cable and froze there and on the fuel injection lever where it connects to this cable. Had to put a new one in.
    That's a tough situation. Bad part is, sounds more like your dealer is the real problem for not being able to get it fixed for you. That's one of the main reasons I switched to New Holland over kubota. The dealer just couldn't fix things properly. For the better part of a year I had a leak at the front hub, they'd come pick it up and put new seals in and it would still leak. I finally told the salesmen I got it from that if they couldn't fix it he better give me a heck of a price on a trade. He came out and we both took a close look at the hub and here there was a pinhole in the back of the casting.

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