The Log house Project begins........
- Thread starter MotorSeven
- Start date
OP
MotorSeven
Elite Member
Nope, they are regular store bought pine 2x10's.
OP
MotorSeven
Elite Member
Yeah that might be close to how much a hot shower or bath put's in the air. If indeed it is the ventless...it's going to be replaced with a direct vent model. I am sure I can scrounge one up that will fit in that antique mantel.
Obed, there is about 8" between the panels at the ridge...plenty of unrestricted room.
Are you seeing any shrinkage between them yet?
It would be interesting to check the difference in room temperature at normal thermostat level ( about 60" off the floor ) and what the temperature is up near the top of the ceiling at the ridge when you are heating the cabin? Some folks use ceiling fans to help circulate the heat back down to people level, but that doesn't work real well with vaulted ceilings.
I'm not sure I buy into your moisture problem theory being from the unvented heater.
We are already adding many gallons of water per day via a humidifier to our ( electric heat pump heated ) house to not be chilly at 72 degrees on the thermostat. WE are still only in the mid 40's for relative humidity inside the house.
Do you have a relative humidity meter/gauge in your house to see what your relative humidity runs with and without the ventless heater running for a day or so?
Ron
tony Cecil
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2010
- Messages
- 291
I bet this will solve the problem...tony
PAGUY
Gold Member
Ron could be right. A house needs moisture in the winter months to feel warmer and avoid shrinkage. I,myself, have a SS bowl of water on top of my stoker stove and every other day I add about a pitcher full of water to it. I believe the moisture evaporation keeps it warmer and keeps the stoker from running longer to keep it warm. I also have no worries about mold in the basement.
OP
MotorSeven
Elite Member
Paccer the 2x10's were kiln dried and no they have not moved a bit. I have a IR thermometer so I can check surface temps. I think our weather station reads interior humidity, but I'm not sure.
Kiln dried is good but only remains at that percentage of moisture till it leaves the mill. Bare wood and open ends suck up moisture like a sponge. I'm sure you put a finish sealer on the side of the deck that is your ceiling but probably not the other 3 sides.
Anyway that is off the subject of your current problem.
Your recent pictures indicate you have installed a ridge cap rather than a ridge vent. There are preformed foam fillers that normally go between the top of your roof panels and the bottom of the ridge cap to keep out bugs and more importantly snow and blowing rain. Did you use them?
You mentioned recently taking out the end plugs from under your ridge cap and putting in screen to keep out the bugs. That might let a little more wind whistle across the top of the ridge but your top horizontal purlins that the ridge cap and roofing tin screw to will still block air flow from the bottom of your roof to the top along with the 4 other purlin rows being 1" high dams for water accumulation.
You were thinking recently about cross ventilation in the air space between the purlins. That might work if the boss would allow you to raise one of your tin roof panels a few inches on each side of the roof and box in the sides. Perhaps the center one. It would need vertical purlins that are bridged to let air flow cross ways in the voids as well as possibly to a cupola at the ridge. A good design might add to the house; a bad one might make the house look too short.
I attached a picture from inside one of my insulated barn roofs. I took it with all the doors closed so you can see that all the ventilation comes in from the soffit vents and has to exit out the sides since the ridge is sealed. Since it is a RAW exposure I digitally change it so you can see it as if it were well lighted You can see the silver insulation board joins at the peak.
Ron
OP
MotorSeven
Elite Member
"There are preformed foam fillers that normally go between the top of your roof panels and the bottom of the ridge cap to keep out bugs and more importantly snow and blowing rain. Did you use them?"
Negative...nothing is blocking any of the rib openings anywhere on the roof. I'm not sure what you are trying to explain about raising the ends of the panels. To vent the sides of the roof between the purlins would only require a slot cut into the gable drip panels. But, unless done properly water will be able to blow right in them(same with the end cap vents). Before I modify anything, I am going to take the time to make sure it's done right and not cause more problems than I'm fixin'.
I can read interior humidity, so when the weather turns colder I'm going to record everything in writing. Once I have the baseline I will know what direction to go.
Negative...nothing is blocking any of the rib openings anywhere on the roof. I'm not sure what you are trying to explain about raising the ends of the panels. To vent the sides of the roof between the purlins would only require a slot cut into the gable drip panels. But, unless done properly water will be able to blow right in them(same with the end cap vents). Before I modify anything, I am going to take the time to make sure it's done right and not cause more problems than I'm fixin'.
I can read interior humidity, so when the weather turns colder I'm going to record everything in writing. Once I have the baseline I will know what direction to go.