Search results

I bought an Armstrong mini-grapple and am very pleased with it. 60" wide and mounted on a 50hp tractor. I'm careful what I attack with it. It isn't built to break trees down but works great for clearing brush and cactus.

Those post hole diggers work so poorly where I live that I wouldn't worry about horsepower. Put a shear bolt in the driveline if you are worried about the gearbox. If you are drilling into an area known to have big rocks you may want to consider getting something like a Beltec post hole drill...

I had considered placing an order with EA. Some other problems with getting delivery on a different product purchased on Ebay made me take pause and do a search for a suitable grapple within driving distance. In order to be able to purchase an inventory item, I needed to convert my Koyker...

I have a Koyker 210 loader and want to find a ready made universal quick attachment that I can simply remove the pins from the Koyker end plate and slip on the new end plate to the two arms and two cylinders. I find lot of kits that would require me to fabricate brackets to attach to my loader...

I fought a hard starting tractor for a couple of years. The starter would grind away at the ring gear without meshing. I even split the tractor and reversed the ring gear to have a new start on things. That didn't accomplish anything. I bought a new starter from the local automotive...

I had quite a few Cabelas Club points built up so I bought the best one (???) in their catalog at no cost to me. I think it is a Schumacher. It charges my cell phone quickly. I haven't needed it for a big engine yet but winter is nearly here and the JD 4230 is booger to start in winter. It...

I'll take the higher horsepower in an older tractor that is 40-50% heavier than the newer offerings. The weight is for traction and my comfort. I've been pleasantly surprised to find that the big diesel engines don't even come close to burning the amount of fuel as published in the Nebraska...

Do some measuring on whatever implement you consider. A 72" brush hog only makes about a 66" cut because there is about a three-inch gap between the ends of the blades and the housing of the machine. I wouldn't put spacers on my rear wheels for flat ground brush hogging. I did widen the...

I've only owned the tractor for nine days. Just like marrying a divorced woman, I have no idea what abuse has taken place. I have no intention of cutting anything until my new rear tires arrive and are mounted. I used the loader for a couple of hours this morning and had a good chance to look...

That is good information. I haven't put a tape measure on the frame yet as I assumed that since it is bolted into holes drilled into the casting at the factory, the back end of the frame will be what it is. It really is rather massive for the size of the tractor that it's mounted to. Nothing...

Yes, thank you. I blew up the picture yesterday and determined the markings on the block. Within an hour, I located the thread that you have linked to. Even though the HV5902 isn't listed as working on the Ford 3930 tractor, I do believe that is what was installed. You gentlemen have been...

I think that I've located the installation instructions for the adapter kit. HV5902 sure looks like the one, even though it doesn't mention fitting tractors as new as mine. I'll keep digging. I'd like to find a paper that shows the fluid routing in that block. It would help me to understand...

Three disconnects. No instructions...as is almost always the case with used equipment. Now that I know which two to connect together, it is just a matter of locating them and checking if they will connect together. I just assumed that I could disconnect all three hoses and back on out. It...

The port on the left with the hollow set screw next to it is marked T. Going around the corner the next block is marked PB. I will have to confirm it, but I'm assuming there is a P hidden by the hose fitting coming out of the blue painted block above the aluminum block that was added. Any idea...

New to me used tractor. In order to change the air filters, the aftermarket end loader has to be removed. Doing this last week, as soon as the three hoses connected to the loader mounted joystick were removed, the hydraulic pump loaded up and sounded exactly like I was operating an SCV valve...

Now that you mention it, the rear tires are mismatched. I'm casually looking around for a decent price for new ones. I just worked the loader for three hours moving sand that blew into a fence line last summer. It works fine so I'll just learn to live with the whopper jawed look. I did...

I noticed that the right side of the bucket touches the ground about an inch sooner than the left. However, there is enough slop in the attachments for the bucket to level out nicely. I can work with that, but I'll just have to get over my OCD and live with a whopper jawed loader when the...

The only way that I can see to raise the left arm would be to cut the welds on the front support frame that supports the horizontal pin that half moon cutout slides on to. That is a pretty good undertaking considering that both the upper and lower weld would have to be cut and rewelded.

Backing away from the tractor, it was obvious that the right arm was higher than the left. I put a level across the arms and determined that the left arm would have to be raised about a half inch for the two arms to be level with each other.

I took the tractor for a shakedown ride. Unfortunately, the arms shifted back to the left, so nothing was gained. I then parked it on the driveway as that is the most level place with tools close by. I put a level on the crossmember of what Koyker calls the right and left uprights. The...

I managed to get some adjustment by loosening the lock bolts on the pins, backing out of the loader by about half an inch, then moving the hook on the front left side of the top rail about a quarter inch closer to the rear of the tractor. My thought was that it would seat before the right hand...

I went out and ran the loader to both stops and held it a couple of times. Then lowered the bucket to about six inches off the ground and measured as best I could. The hydraulic cylinder pins are actually bolts. Measuring from outside to outside, the left side is maybe a sixteenth of an inch...

I don't think that I can fully retract the cylinders while they are mounted. I think that I can get the same information by lifting the bucket off the ground and then measuring. If I get a longer measurement on the right side, that could explain why the top part of the loader isn't centered...

I got nothing using the search function. In fact, I haven't gotten anything other than "no results" for the past several searches. The bucket seems to be level in use, just shifted to one side a little. It's like the right loader arm needs to seat another quarter to a half inch deeper into...

I've had a Ford/New Holland 3930 for a couple of weeks now. It came with a Koyker 210 loader. Before I bought it, I noticed that the lifting arms were out of alignment with the sub-frame. There is a gap of about two inches between the rub rail on the left arm and the sub-frame and only about...

I finally found a wiring diagram. I stand corrected. The starter is an enertia style that spins the bendix into the ring gear. The solenoid does not pull the bendix into engagement. So the next test that I would do is to disconnect the big wire off of the starter motor, put a test lead...

I don't think that the solenoid is bad. It started the tractor. Solenoids are either good or bad, no in between. I'm assuming that when you used the 8 gauge wire, you robbed power from the large lug on the end of the starter. If the solenoid has two spades, one is positive input and the other...

Let me reword that. I haven't been into my 3930 starter yet so I'm not sure of the set-up. They are all basically the same though. If you were able to jumper to a post on that starter and the bendix engaged and cranked the engine, the starter is functional. Your problem is somewhere upstream...

I'm not understanding what pulled the Bendix in to the ring gear if you are saying that you by passed the solenoid.

If you are putting power to the solenoid spade and it engages and the starter turns, it isn't the solenoid. More likely a dirty switch or something else keeping full voltage from getting to the + side of the solenoid.

I gave up about a week ago. Our well water is so hard that plants would rather die than filter out the gyp to get the moisture. No rain, 110 degree highs, and no end in sight. This summer has been a bummer.

Multiple times in my life on multiple vehicles having the same problem. It has almost always been the ground cable corroded where it bolts to the frame. Pull it off. Sandpaper the terminal and the area on the frame around the bolt hole.

It really isn't a big deal. Plenty of two tracks and open fields on my place. About the only time that this rig has to get out into the brush is when I retrieve a downed deer. I can pick my way through most of it or just drag the deer out to an access point if needed. That wide stance makes a...

I built one and had fun doing it. I started with the smallest Harbor Freight trailer in a box. In order to use wheels with the offset and width for real off road tires I ended up using 2" wheel spacers. I miscalculated as 1" would have worked fine. The side rails were some scrap that I had...

I would probably mix it with some used crankcase oil and run it through my Chinese tractor. That little sucker will burn just about any oil.

That is exactly how my neighbor does it. I don't have the equipment for driving them and work solo, so it is not an option. If I thought you were serious, I know a guy that can supply the pipe. About $12 each plus a small freight charge.

2 3/8" used oilfield pipe is the way to go. One every hundred feet with t-posts in between every ten to twelve feet. I will never put another wooden post in the ground again after the wildfire of 2011 taught me a painful lesson.

Just toss them out on the driveway and use the pressure washer.

In our country, as small as the post will fit into. We normally hit rock at about a foot to a foot and a half under the surface. Three feet down, packed with the dirt and chips that came out of the hole and you will have a post that will stay straight until your grandsons are old men.

If you want maximum air flow, buy crowsfoot couplings. Crowsfoot Connections - Hose and Fittings

I put a new injection pump on my JD and got similar results. Loaded the tractor and took it to a real mechanic. Told him the history and he fixed the problem in no time. There was a half -moon key that drove the pump that had pushed out when I installed the new injector pump. The injection...

I could get used to that. I've never owned a tractor with the brakes on the left, but a little time can work wonders. I just watched a video that showed the layout of the hydrostatic pedals and the brake. In all honesty, it isn't much different than using a motor vehicle with an automatic...

Most of my small tractor work doesn't require running the engine at 1600 or 1800 rpms. I would have a problem with tier 4. Now, when I'm putting in crops with the big tractor, it's running 2200 rpm for hours on end. I have read about and watched videos that said to stay away from the 3350...

I assume that you can't play the organ, either. A couple of hours use should establish the muscle memory or whatever you prefer to call it, to operate that machine. I seldom use the brakes on a tractor so it wouldn't be much of an issue for me.

Use a little logic in this situation. Consider that the regen system has already failed at 500 hours. Do you want a tractor with this known issue? I ran a business with a fleet of Kenworth truck tractors. The regen systems easily cost more than all other maintenance on those trucks. I'm...

It isn't that simple. You are correct that the system wasn't winterized. You are leaving out the part about a higher than normal number of conventional power plants being off-line for repair, (how dumb is that?), natural gas going offline as a direct result of electric failures, and wind and...

Don't forget that there is another one point two trillion dollars about to be spent. That money doesn't exist either, never mind what the government is saying. They continue to add fuel to the inflation fire so I'm looking for something to put cash in to. There is a better chance of coming...

Gas compression plants went down to a large degree because the compressors had been converted to electric motors. When the electricity goes down, so does the gas compression. In the old days the compressors were driven by natural gas fueled engines.

I went to switch the hoses and had another idea. Started the tractor and raised the front wheels about an inch off the ground. I found a reference point and watched to see if the tire would turn to the right. The thought being that any leakage through the control valve should turn the wheel...

The only adjustment that I can make on this tractor is toe in or out. Camber and castor are fixed. I can see where you would say that it could be a road camber issue. This tractor is seldom driven on a crowned road, though. I first recognized the problem on level ground. Tire pressures are...

I've never lost a chain using a stake pocket. If you attach the chain correctly, the weight of the chain will keep the hook in place. I also never used more than one chain binder. Both chain hooks were placed in the stake pockets, then I would pull the slack to one side and put the binder in a...

Interesting suggestions and I will consider them all. Thank you all for your thoughts. It does seem to me that if it were a camber or tire pressure problem, I could hold the steering wheel slightly to the left to compensate for the drift. What is actually happening is that I am having to do a...

I am rather dense at times. I think that I have it figured out. I was working on the assumption that air was getting into the steering cylinder because I could turn the wheels to the stops and hold for a few seconds and the problem would go away for awhile. I did this for about the last year...

Scratching my head trying to figure out whether to have the hydraulic cylinder rebuilt or pull the steering control valve and rebuild it first. The tractor pulls a little to the right and it takes a constant slight turn of the steering wheel to the left to keep it going straight. No external...

Crunching the numbers now that I really do need to upgrade. Owning the tractor that I now have hasn't cost much at all. Using a conservative value of what I expect to sell it for, it appears that owning cost me about $650 a year. If I were to give it away, the cost would only be $1350 a year...

JD 5205 with a loader. It probably weighs 6,000 with the loader. I often hang a disc or blade on the back. It will dig a hole in ground if the plow sticks. After seeing the planetary gears and how fine the teeth are, it really gives me the willies when the tires dig in enough to kill the...

I've been running my tractor for twenty years with no ballast. Even plowing with it when the conditions are right. In fact, I was just thinking the other day about how much damage I could do if the tires grabbed any better than they do. I already spent over $5000 having one of the little...

If you use it ten hours a month you are breaking even. Find some more work and make that tractor pay for itself. I used to do a little brush hogging at $60 an hour.

Auction prices and offering prices is what I used for comps. It is hard to tell condition from a picture and a brief description though.

I read the first four pages of this thread and the last three pages. I don't come on here much, but does the train leave the track fairly often? It is actually quite entertaining. Who'd have thought that a thread about age vs value would morph into tires and global cooling. Excuse me while I...

It's interesting times that we live in. First it was the furniture stores not stocking anything. Order only. Then it was the major appliance dealers not stocking much. But we can order and maybe have it in two weeks. I call BS. My money stays in my pocket until I can lay hands on what ever...

I'll be moving up in horsepower shortly. I found a clean low hour (970) 2000 New Holland TT75A today for $27,500. It has a decent loader installed. I'm thinking that they are asking about what the tractor and loader sold for twenty-one years ago. I called before driving the hundred miles to...

This morning I was running a new to me brush hog. It is a little out of balance so I didn't think much of what was going on at first. After about ten minutes I thought to myself that the vibration from the brush hog is affecting the engine. So, I released the pto and let the blades come to a...

The battery is draining to nothing if the tractor sits for a few days without use. I put a new battery in on December 31, so that is not an issue. Yesterday I put a charge on the battery and decided to check for voltage drain with the switch in the off position. I found that there is a 125...

My 1966 Ford 3000 gasser has spit out coolant ever since I bought it three or four years ago. Not a lot, but not a little either. Probably a gallon every six hours of run time. I changed the radiator cap and washed the radiator coils this past Saturday. On Sunday I started it and moved it...

I will be splitting my 1966 Ford 3000 gasser to repair the ring gear. Fifty years of use has the teeth banged up pretty bad. I bought a new starter for it, but saw how bad the gear is while installing the starter. I am assuming that the gear can be flipped over and should be good for another...