110V Electrical Question

[dcyrilc]

Will one need a permit ???

Probably. Not sure about where the OP is at, but here the permit is the cheapest part of the deal ($15). As for just repairing, I would guess no permit required. To upgrade, my answer would be yes. I know that this varies by region though. His contractor should be able to tell him what's required for his area.

 

[Mace Canute]

I cast my vote for tossing the old panel and installing a new SQD one. Sometime in the future, you are going to have trouble with those breakers and if Murphy has any say in it, (and when doesn't he?) it will be at the most inopportune time!

I can't say for sure from the pics, but do the wires going to the 50 Amp and 30 Amp breakers look undersized? You can run a little bigger beaker (than you would normally use on any other circuit) on a dedicated welder service because of the duty cycle but that looks just a shade small to my old eyes even at that.

It would be interesting to see how the wires to the receptacles are connected in the outlet boxes. You might want to consider changing them all out too if they are "old as the hills" and they really aren't expensive at all...depends how well they grip the male plug-in or if you see any sign of a hot-spot on them.

The main problem certainly sounds like a bad neutral somewhere. A good electrician should be able to track that down right fast!

 

[tthopskin@yahoo.ca]

your drawing more the it can handle your welder is on a different circuit more amps nothing wrong with it look at the amps each heater is drawing this will tell you every thing

 

[JDgreen227]

I cast my vote for tossing the old panel and installing a new SQD one. Sometime in the future, you are going to have trouble with those breakers and if Murphy has any say in it, (and when doesn't he?) it will be at the most inopportune time!

I can't say for sure from the pics, but do the wires going to the 50 Amp and 30 Amp breakers look undersized? You can run a little bigger beaker (than you would normally use on any other circuit) on a dedicated welder service because of the duty cycle but that looks just a shade small to my old eyes even at that.

It would be interesting to see how the wires to the receptacles are connected in the outlet boxes. You might want to consider changing them all out too if they are "old as the hills" and they really aren't expensive at all...depends how well they grip the male plug-in or if you see any sign of a hot-spot on them.

The main problem certainly sounds like a bad neutral somewhere. A good electrician should be able to track that down right fast!

Have ALWAYS used SQD panels here, have some outdoor sub panels that are going on 20 years they still look good. About receptacles, never used the cheapo 50 cent ones, always commercial grade, you can get good ones for $2 or $3 each and they will outlast you, considering the time you can spend replacing an outlet down the road they are a cheap upgrade. Oh might as well mention this, my original house was an Aladdin (Bay City, Michigan) kit house, built in '49. When the owners wired the house they used ALUMINUM outlet and switch boxes, and the metal frame for the majority of the 2 wire outlets and switches were also made of aluminum (not the screws, however). I know about aluminum wiring, but how many of you have seen aluminum switch boxes and outlets?

 

[chopped]

:laughing:Hand raised. ............:thumbsup: my cheapo 50 cent ones are around 1 dollar now ..lol

 

[Knotbored]

My eyes aren't good enough to tell-but could that be wired with aluminum wire and have a corrosion problem like the one that burned down a few houses back in the 60's? As I recall the plugs used then allowed sparking because aluminum swelled/shrank and corroded, and special plugs were necessary.

 

[ray66v]

There is no question the QO breakers are the safest.

They can actually be too sensitive. Plug in a good sized radial arm saw, or a big grinder, and the starting draw can occasionally trip them, even though the tool is made for, and runs fine on a 20 amp circuit.

When this happens, you have few good options. It would be nice if they made some kind of "slow blow" breaker, for this situation. If there is a solution for this, I have not found it, and I would be interested in hearing it. No, I don't want to change the plugs to 30 amp dedicated ones.

If I use Homeline, or Cutler Hammer, same tool, no problem. Still pretty good stuff.

 

[tommu56]

There is no question the QO breakers are the safest.

They can actually be too sensitive. Plug in a good sized radial arm saw, or a big grinder, and the starting draw can occasionally trip them, even though the tool is made for, and runs fine on a 20 amp circuit.

When this happens, you have few good options. It would be nice if they made some kind of "slow blow" breaker, for this situation. If there is a solution for this, I have not found it, and I would be interested in hearing it. No, I don't want to change the plugs to 30 amp dedicated ones.

If I use Homeline, or Cutler Hammer, same tool, no problem. Still pretty good stuff.

use a HACR type breaker they handle the inrush better

or a

high magnetic type.

Product Detail - Schneider Electric United States

tom

 

[blueriver]

Well ... no news he called about 4:15 and said he would try to make it tomorrow ....

 

[ray66v]

use a HACR type breaker they handle the inrush better

or a

high magnetic type.

Product Detail - Schneider Electric United States

tom

Thanks Tom, I can't tell you how useless counter people, and electricians, I have asked about this have been. The HACR type, seems to be just what I wanted. I don't have to like the price, I guess.