OP
RedDirtDaddy
New member
Thanks for the pages. I've read all about it in the FO-40 but still doesn't mean much. It's clearly a non-OEM replacement. I'll just poke around with it and hope I don't fry anything. Thanks JC!
1700 Resurrection
- Thread starter RedDirtDaddy
- Start date
JC-jetro
Elite Member
Why don't you post a pic of your alt rear with whatever wiring attached to it. Somebody might find a bit of useful info..You never know. Did you follow the wires from Voltage Regulator back to alt?
JC,
jones6780
Gold Member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2008
- Messages
- 418
- Location
- Lizella, Ga.
- Tractor
- Ford 1700 4wheel drive, Yazoo/Kees Max2 Zero Turn
Do you know if the alternator is internally regulated? Makes a big difference. Do you have any info on the alternator, manufacturer or maybe a photo? Just a guess here but ,
E is for excite, hot wire to excite the fields.
S is for sensing or Stator, may go to charge indicator light
B is for Battery, should be a heavy wire going to hot battery cable on solenoid.
L , no clue
E is for excite, hot wire to excite the fields.
S is for sensing or Stator, may go to charge indicator light
B is for Battery, should be a heavy wire going to hot battery cable on solenoid.
L , no clue
mostly_gas
Super Member
Alternator is external from factory. It is common for people to sub a cheaper alternator with internal regulator.
jones6780
Gold Member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2008
- Messages
- 418
- Location
- Lizella, Ga.
- Tractor
- Ford 1700 4wheel drive, Yazoo/Kees Max2 Zero Turn
Any updates??
OP
RedDirtDaddy
New member
Evening folks! I'm terribly to sorry to have abandoned my thread. I'll post a detailed update when I'm not on my phone with $#%! signal. Haven't had too many opportunities to work on this beast but am close to being done. Quick question, does anyone know a cross referenced replacement bearing for the steering shaft? The one on top of the clutch housing. That's really my last missing piece.
OP
RedDirtDaddy
New member
So here's the latest and greatest:
Engine was overhauled, new rings and bearings, valves replaced
Clutch replaced
New fluids and filters
New starter solenoid
New (ebay) alternator (not currently hooked up, unsure how)
New battery and cables
Got her all back together but she won't start. She'll turn over just fine and give small puffs of white smoke but just won't catch. I'm using the preheat (key held to the left) and have verified voltage at the plugs. I've bled it a couple of times and it seems to not have any more air.
What am I missing??
Engine was overhauled, new rings and bearings, valves replaced
Clutch replaced
New fluids and filters
New starter solenoid
New (ebay) alternator (not currently hooked up, unsure how)
New battery and cables
Got her all back together but she won't start. She'll turn over just fine and give small puffs of white smoke but just won't catch. I'm using the preheat (key held to the left) and have verified voltage at the plugs. I've bled it a couple of times and it seems to not have any more air.
What am I missing??
I think you need to bleed the system again. Follow the link provided and look at diagram. Read my post #6 and 7 (picture) for instructions. If you didn't do everything in these instructions, do it again. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...258-ford-1600-died-know-wont.html#post1730983
After bleeding try to start at full throttle and when it starts lower throttle to between 1000 to 1500 rpm for 1 or 2 minutes. It should run fine after that.
After bleeding try to start at full throttle and when it starts lower throttle to between 1000 to 1500 rpm for 1 or 2 minutes. It should run fine after that.
Last edited:
OP
RedDirtDaddy
New member
Thanks Ray! Gave her a shot this weekend, no dice. I'm getting fuel to the injectors but not through. Pulled them out and connected lines and there's no mist at all. There's nothing that jumps out as to being bad or wrong with the internals, other than the tips having some carbon. Guess I'll get some solvent after the needles and their seats then see what happens.