1735M - Putting on snow chains isn't as easy as you would think.

[TheLandofSnipers]

Silly me I thought my 4wd tractor would be okay without chains this winter. It's doing ok, but I'm slipping a bit much for my peace of mind. So I guess my tractor needs chains to get around our property. So we spent a small fortune on some nice chains. When I went to put them on, while they are the correct size, the tractors tires were still mounted in the narrowest setting and there is not enough clearance to allow the chains to move without interference to the cab.
So with winter in full swing, with a storm bearing down on us, I am going to set about to dismount my giant, liquid filled and of course very heavy tires and adjust the width. At least the temps are in the mid 20's with ~19" predicted to be dumped upon us in the next few days.

Any tips on flipping the wheels to gain more width?

 

[RoyJackson]

Any tips on flipping the wheels to gain more width?

Yeah...one...
Measure the offset to make sure flipping the wheels will give you what you need before you dismount the wheeels.
If the offset isn't adequate for the chains clearance, you may need spacers.
Had to do the same process when I owned a Deere 4400 CUT with R3 turfs. Fortunately, in my case there was adequate offset
Good luck!! And be safe...have a helper handy, if at all possible

 

[TheLandofSnipers]

I don't need but an inch or so. The manual says the wheels have 4 different settings and it ships with them installed in the most narrow position. I really should have widened them before, like before winter. But the tractor was doing what I asked of it in the narrow position. And I'm very busy or very lazy depending on how you look at it. My wife thinks I'm busy, I think I'm lazy.

 

[RoyJackson]

I don't need but an inch or so. The manual says the wheels have 4 different settings and it ships with them installed in the most narrow position. I really should have widened them before, like before winter. But the tractor was doing what I asked of it in the narrow position. And I'm very busy or very lazy depending on how you look at it. My wife thinks I'm busy, I think I'm lazy.

Others might disagree, but I suggest going as wide as possible. Even without chains, this will make your tractor more stable

 

[JWR]

Check your owners booklet. Most Masseys show the various tire configurations and resulting widths available to you. At least mine does. It is almost certainly just a matter of moving the wheels/tires side to side or in versus out. The diagrams are usually pretty clear. Being fluid filled and/or with weights, try to do the movement in a space where you have an overhead lift mechanism like a chain hoist or portable jack hoist. Not necessarily to pick up the tires/wheels but to have them anchored and tied to an over head lift for stability as you move them around. Once the heavy tires start to keel over is when you'll try to stop them and get hurt unless you have an overhead assist of some sort.

 

[JWR]

Putting a little more thought into this, I'm looking at a picture of a 1735M. Do what your booklet says of course, but it looks to me like unbolting the rims from the wheel dishes/centers and swapping the wheels left/right is all you need to do to gain several inches per side --at least a foot greater tire separation. The dish centers stay on the tractor and the rims/tires just get swapped side to side. You'll need to jack up the whole rear of the tractor just a little to get clearance to move the tires around. Even loaded, I'd think two guys could roll those around on a smooth concrete floor and do that job in short order.

 

[TheLandofSnipers]

Putting a little more thought into this, I'm looking at a picture of a 1735M. Do what your booklet says of course, but it looks to me like unbolting the rims from the wheel dishes/centers and swapping the wheels left/right is all you need to do to gain several inches per side --at least a foot greater tire separation. The dish centers stay on the tractor and the rims/tires just get swapped side to side. You'll need to jack up the whole rear of the tractor just a little to get clearance to move the tires around. Even loaded, I'd think two guys could roll those around on a smooth concrete floor and do that job in short order.

I'm dreaming of a smooth concrete floor right now. What I got is a semi flat, ice and snow covered dirt lot. I'll manage. I always do. I'm going to get it off the ground and go for setting 2 or 3 in the book. I can't put it super wide or I won't be able to get around in the forest. We'll see how hard they are to move. I may put them in position 4 for now if need be.

 

[CobyRupert]

Is the rim such that you can change how the outer rim mounts on the rim’s center pan/dish and gain the 1”?
If so, this may eliminate having to swap them side to side and having both wheels off at same time. Unless you want more.
Also, as you know, pay attention to maintaining correct tread direction.

 

[TheLandofSnipers]

Two Harbor Freight jinky jacks, light from my Polaris Ranger, a spare card table and the job is done. My wife stopped by to bring me beer and moral support.

1. Break torque on the inner hub to rim bolts while on the ground.
2. Jack up
3. Remove the (6) nuts from the wheel hub and punch out the carriage bolts.
4. Set the parking brake and turn the tire until the notches match up with the inner hub and pull the wheel out ~2" Be very careful!
5. Use a jack to push the tire up/around until the bolt holes line back up.
6. Reinstall the carriage bolts the reverse direction they were from the factory, nuts on the inner side of the wheel.
7. Torque to 170 Ft lbs.
It's just that easy!

 

[JWR]

So were you satisfied by just doing what Coby was saying in post # 8 and gaining an inch or two in width? Not really widening the rear tread more than the small amount needed for your chains? I guess that is where we came in -- getting your chains on...