1735M - Putting on snow chains isn't as easy as you would think.

[TheLandofSnipers]

So were you satisfied by just doing what Coby was saying in post # 8 and gaining an inch or two in width? Not really widening the rear tread more than the small amount needed for your chains? I guess that is where we came in -- getting your chains on...

We just need to get the chains on. Job done. Moving >500lb tires from side to side in blowing snow is not my first choice.

 

[TheLandofSnipers]

Just a picture of what I described in my last post,

I had another picture, but my phone breathed it's last breath on planet earth uploading this image.

 

[5030]

Not an issue here as I never load my tires. My units weigh in the excess of 8K pounds so all I do is chain up the front wheels when plowing, never the rears. That basically eliminates plow steer. I run a 10 foot wide blade with a blower out back. Mine are all FWA by the way.

Easiest way to chain up is, lay the chains out flat on the ground and drive over them, centering the ends, they put them on the tire and cinch and add rubber tarp straps on the outside to keep them tensioned. Takes me about 5 minutes per wheel and even less to remove them.

 

[Hilbilly]

I used to struggle putting the rear chains on until I discovered this video. It works really well and the tractor does all the heavy lifting. This method also keeps the chains tight. Try it. I think you will like it.

 

[CobyRupert]

From OP’s picture, it looks like they’re in the widest configuration:
Inner hub pan is dished out.
Outer rim is bolted to the outside of the inner rim hub’s brackets.
Outer rim is on the correct side of tractor so that the outer rim’s brackets are offset to the inside of the rim.
If I’m seeing it correctly?

 

[Hilbilly]

It’s hard to tell from the pic but I think the rim mounting brackets are actually towards the outside of the rim. Therefore moving the rims to the other side of the tractor would provide 2 wider mounting options.

 

[JWR]

We just need to get the chains on. Job done. Moving >500lb tires from side to side in blowing snow is not my first choice.

Man I can understand that !! At 78 I don't tackle those jobs anymore without a helper. Strong healthy Grandsons seem to be the best.

 

[JWR]

From OP’s picture, it looks like they’re in the widest configuration:
Inner hub pan is dished out.
Outer rim is bolted to the outside of the inner rim hub’s brackets.
Outer rim is on the correct side of tractor so that the outer rim’s brackets are offset to the inside of the rim.
If I’m seeing it correctly?

I think differently -- close, but different and it is hard to say n English and be half way clear.

I think what the OP did was to simply attach his center dish to the INNER side of the attach brackets welded to the rims. It was originally delivered with the narrowest configuration which had the dishes bolted to the OUTSIDE of those brackets. That is my understanding of what he said in Post #9. That move meant he did not have to roll the wheels side to side and swap tires left and right. This gives him an inch or more per side of added space between the wheels. But that is not the widest configuration. I'm fairly sure the attach brackets welded to the rims are offset and at the current time are offset from center toward the outer edge of the rims.

He could go a lot wider (4 or 5 inches per side I think) by carrying the rims/wheels to the opposite sides of the tractor and mounting them such that the welded brackets on the rims are offset to the inside, thus giving more space between wheels. Quite a few possible combinations. And those are the very same combinations available to me on my MF 2660. I purposely run mine to give me 8ft spacing outer edge to outer edge of the tires as I work on steep ground much of the time. I could run wider but that creates secondary issues with trailering, etc.

 

[TheLandofSnipers]

I think differently -- close, but different and it is hard to say n English and be half way clear.

I think what the OP did was to simply attach his center dish to the INNER side of the attach brackets welded to the rims. It was originally delivered with the narrowest configuration which had the dishes bolted to the OUTSIDE of those brackets. That is my understanding of what he said in Post #9. That move meant he did not have to roll the wheels side to side and swap tires left and right. This gives him an inch or more per side of added space between the wheels. But that is not the widest configuration. I'm fairly sure the attach brackets welded to the rims are offset and at the current time are offset from center toward the outer edge of the rims.

He could go a lot wider (4 or 5 inches per side I think) by carrying the rims/wheels to the opposite sides of the tractor and mounting them such that the welded brackets on the rims are offset to the inside, thus giving more space between wheels. Quite a few possible combinations. And those are the very same combinations available to me on my MF 2660. I purposely run mine to give me 8ft spacing outer edge to outer edge of the tires as I work on steep ground much of the time. I could run wider but that creates secondary issues with trailering, etc.

Correct. Just under 2" inches per side is what it gave me.

 

[LouNY]

I used to struggle putting the rear chains on until I discovered this video. It works really well and the tractor does all the heavy lifting. This method also keeps the chains tight. Try it. I think you will like it.

That is similar to how I install my chains, My Aquiline chains recommend not binding them so tight.
I have one set of TTYGG and one set of Aguiline Talons for rear chains and I'm not sure what brand my front set is.
I have never used a tighting device with these Euro style chains and have never lost one yet, my first set is going on 10 years old.
Also, my chains get considerable road use in high gear.
Here's a link to me installing mine Mounting tire chains