1969 JD 1020 diesel

[jenkinsph]

If it were me I would install new pistons, rings, liners and injectors. I would have a local machine shop rework the head while I performed the other work.

For all practical uses you should have a new engine.

 

[Zebrafive]

If it were me I would install new pistons, rings, liners and injectors. I would have a local machine shop rework the head while I performed the other work.

For all practical uses you should have a new engine.

The only other thing I would add to this advice is have the injector pump checked/rebuilt at the same time.

 

[PNW1020D]

Thank you everyone for your advice and words of knowledge.

I will have the head re-worked at a local shop and will be buying three new injectors.

As for the injector pump, I didn't even entertain rebuilding it :confused3:

I will try and get photos posted as soon as I can.

I will also be buying the engine rebuilt kit from the link below?

John Deere 1020 Engine Rebuild Kits -

The in-frame kit...or does anyone have a better source?

As for more questions....

How do I press the new liners into the block?

Do I need to remove and clean the oil sump screen?

 

[Tx Jim]

Be sure and take extra care in cleaning o-ring grooves in cyl block. With liquid dish soap applied to o-rings & liners then new liners should slide into place with sometimes requiring a gentle tap with a wooden block. YT is a good place to purchase parts. Need to clean oil sump screen would depend on it's condition. If engine ran good I wouldn't have IP repaired IE if "it ain't broken don't fix it".

 

[PNW1020D]

Thank you Jim,

So how do I get the rod bearing caps off? :ashamed:

Is there something I am missing or do I need to eat more spinach? :confused3:

Also lets say right now, with the crank in its current position, I cannot reach some of the rod bearing cap bolts? Can I rotate the crank and if so what is the best way to do this? I know in a car I just put a socket over the crank pulley bolt?

 

[jd110]

You will need to rotate the crank to access the rod bolts. If you still have the water pump installed, with the head off and no compression, you should be able to grab the fan and turn the crank if belt is tight enough. If not then I usually remove the 2 1/2" plug from the left side of the clutch housing and use a large screwdriver or pry bar on the clutch assembly to bar the engine over. Once the rod bolts are removed, the rod cap has a tongue and groove design that holds cap snugly in place after bolts are loose. I usually use the bolts as a handle of sorts. MMake sure they are threaded all the way out of the rod and only in the cap. then squeeze the bolts together and rock side to side to remove the cap.

 

[Shaneard]

Be sure and mark your pistons and rod caps so they go back in the exact way they come out and are matched with each other accordingly.

 

[PNW1020D]

I literally cannot get the rod cap bolts off???

What is the deal?

Thanks guys!

 

[Shaneard]

If someone has been in it before they may have put loctite on them.

 

[PNW1020D]

I was able to get the first piston's rod cap bolts off and removed the bearing halves.

I started to push from below on the rod with just my hands to extract the piston from the block.

I have pushed it far enough that the piston ring is exposed but I cannot get the piston to come out.

What am I missing?

Do I need a specific tool to pull out the piston like I do with the cylinder liners?

Thanks everyone!!!