1969 JD 1020 diesel

[PNW1020D]

I have all three pistons removed.

The back side of the bearing halves for each piston are tarnished and brown? But are not warped and fit seamlessly into their respective places.

So am I looking at new rod bearings? The kit that I was looking at from YD Tractors does not include bearings.

The crankshaft doesn't appear to have any scoring what so ever.

I am now looking at three liners that are still in the block. The more I look at them the more I feel I should get them out with a proper puller.

I just don't see a way to get a good bearing surface on the liner from below to enable me to push it up and out with a bottle jack.


So...

Please correct me if I am wrong,

But I would need to remove the old pistons from the rods, install new pistons on old rods, replace rod bearings.

Then remove the old liners, replace with new liners and install my new pistons into new liners. Questions is, how do I compress the new piston rings that will come already in place on the new pistons from YD Tractors to fit them into the liners?

The manuals I have show tolerances and measurements of rod bearing diameter at various locations around the circumference when bolted to the rod to see if reuse is possible, etc. but I just wanted an easier opinion on, "just replace it, or not".

Best.

 

[PNW1020D]

And here are some photos.

 

[Shaneard]

The pistons/rings into the liners, go to your local auto parts store and buy a piston ring compressor tool. Should be less than $20. They are simple and work well. If you are in this far I would replace the bearings, no point in skimping on one of the most important parts.

 

[ovrszd]

Anxious to see the outcome of this build. There will be many, many more questions.

My biggest concern is we don't know where the water was coming from? May rebuild this engine and it still drinks water. That would really suck. Not being familiar with this particular engine I can't even offer suggestions as to where to look for the source.

 

[PNW1020D]

Ok, so replacement of rod bearings will happen.

To extract the old pistons from the old rods, and install the new pistons I will need a press huh? So when I take the head to the machine shop I will also bring the pistons.

It better not "drink" any effing water. :laughing:

Unless there is a crack in the block, it is either the head gasket or the o-rings in the liners that would cause coolant in the crankcase.

Therefore I am replacing both possibly culprits.

 

[ovrszd]

I wouldn't replace the pistons unless I found damage. If you aren't sure how to determine damage, take the rings off, clean the pistons up, take them with you to the machine shop where you take the head. They'll look at them and give their advice.

Since you are looking for water leakage you should consider the head as a source also.

Since you are going "deep" into this, have the head worked over. They'll check it for cracks, plane it, replace any bad valves, replace or grind the valve seats and valves they reuse, and replace the valve guides.

Again, since you are this "deep", you need to consider replacing the lifters and cam bearings. Remove the cam and take it with you to the shop for them to inspect and gauge.

Not sure what you expect for costs here, but it's probably going to shock you. If you do this right, it'll get to $1500 real fast. If you do it right, my guess, for further discussion is going to be $2000.

 

[PNW1020D]

I believe that the JD manual states that if I replace the liners I have to replace the pistons.

Maybe is just said piston rings but I swear it said pistons.

No shock. I was ready for that ballpark range, considering the rebuild kit is around $700, plus new injectors, machine shop work, etc.

First off, I need to get the old liners out...

 

[PNW1020D]

Please see the video below.

This is what I would be doing as well correct?

Meaning installing an assembly consisting of piston already inserted in the cylinder liner?

Diesel Wet Sleeve / Liner Installation - YouTube

 

[ovrszd]

I wouldn't, but that's just me. My concern is how do you know you have the piston turned in the right position to mate up to the crankshaft?? In your case you are installing these items against an installed crankshaft. I "think" in the video he's installing into a block without a crankshaft.

 

[PNW1020D]

The rod, connected to the piston has a number on it designating cylinder number.

The numbers should all face the passenger side of the tractor when the pistons are installed in the block.

So, my thinking is as long as I have that number facing the correct way before I install the liner into the block all should connect to the crankshaft correctly?

Am I an idiot?