1984 1710

[Creamer]

If your rims are in decent shape I would not spend the money on tubes. Although if your only issue now is with cracking and the tread is good you may be able to get along with tubing your current tires. It all depends on what condition your current tires are in. That would be a lot less than new tires.

From what you mentioned I wold go with Ag tires. As i an testify the turf do not give you the traction you need. If I did not have FWA I would be lost many times with my turf tires.

 

[Briana03]

Welcome to TractorByNet!

I moved your thread to the Ford/New Holland forum.

 

[Kent B]

Tire / Rims update

I was fortunate to find someone who dismounted my old tires from the rims. Aside from the valve-stem area the wheels are salvageable except for one of the front wheels. The rust around the stem hole is bad enough that it needs repair.
Instead of repairing the one I think I will buy two new front wheels, scrap the bad one, and keep the "one" decent one as a spare.
Tires are not a problem. I found them to be available at the local PepBoys tire center.
My questions:
Where to order, buy, new wheels to fit my Ford 1710 2wd? 15 x 5.00
I am searching the internet etc but I am open to any suggestions from the forum.
Anybody have a cure for my illness? Any hope of getting them from the TSC or other tractor parts dealer?
Any such luck as finding a currently manufactured trailer rim that can be substituted in some way?
It seems like cutting out the center of the old rim and welding it to something else would be too labor intensive.
With the millions of vehicles, trailers, and other wheeled equipment there has got to be something with the same lug pattern. I think I will make a paper template to measure everything I see with 6 lugs.
data on 1710 wheel mounting measurements:
front: 3" center hole; 2-1/2" between lug-to-lug (center point)
rear: 4-1/2" center hole; 3-1/2" between lug-to-lug (center point)
Thanks,

P.S.:
I am going to the New Holland site to check their prices now. Maybe it's just me but I have trouble with finding the parts (such as the hydraulic piston seal) in their diagrams. Maybe it isn't there but I keep looking.

 

[Kent B]

Unbelievable!!!

I just read another post with a simple solution to the rusted out valve-stem hole. Instead of trying to patch the old rusted out hole just drill a new one where the rim isn't rusted then cover, weld over, or plug the old hole.
Simple and Genius.

 

[Kent B]

Welcome brother 1710 Owner!

I was hoping someone could tell me the part number or better yet where to order the hydraulic piston seal for the Ford 1710.

I have reached the point where the hydraulics are next in line for servicing. I have a filter and I know where to get the hydraulic fluid but the piston seal is proving to be evasive.

My manual has not arrived so I need a reference of where all of the drain plugs are. I want to make sure I drain as much of the old stuff out that I can.

Thanks.

 

[Kent B]

I was hoping someone could tell me the part number or better yet where to order the hydraulic piston seal for the Ford 1710.

I have reached the point where the hydraulics are next in line for servicing. I have a filter and I know where to get the hydraulic fluid but the piston seal is proving to be evasive.

My manual has not arrived so I need a reference of where all of the drain plugs are. I want to make sure I drain as much of the old stuff out that I can.

Thanks.

Here is what I ordered.
FORD Cylinder Seal Kit, For 2 in. cylinders - For TISCO
side and top link replacement cylinders. Seal Repair Kit

Hopefully it is the correct item. It doesn't have the individual part numbers but I have my fingers crossed. The individual seal "alone" is the same price as this kit. The kit says it is for a 2" piston but the NH diagram doesn't show the size only the part and part numbers.
I am probably going to drain the fluid tomorrow.
Rust removal and coating / painting are coming along nicely. (using the Permatex 81773 Rust Treatment)
I also ordered the POR-15 six pack.
re: drain plugs
I remember reading in a thread that there are 3 plugs to drain. The two on the differential (found them) and one more. I may have found it but not 100% sure. The bolt (or plug, if I am correct) in the center of the flat plate, forward 16 to 18 inches from the diffy.

 

[Kent B]

The old fluid looked clean to me. It had a light brown color, no milk, or other noticeable abnormalities. The filter looked clean (but dented) as well. This brings me to my next question:
I am thinking that I do not have the same "screen" that I have seen numerous pictures of from other forum members with the Ford 1700 model tractor.
There are a lot of similarities between the 1710 and 1700 but I think that one difference is that the 1710 has the spin-on filter instead of the replaceable screen.
Chime in please if anyone knows for sure. (still no manual)

Funny thing: I had a $600(3 times per year) bushhog job handed to me if I choose to take it. I'm not even looking to do tractor work (for others) but that would pay for some new tires easy.

 

[MikeDspain]

Hey Kent, I'm a new 1710 owner and I've changed all the hydro fluids also, like yourself I could not find a screen. I just had bolt with a hole in it. The manual is very vague and shows a screen on some models, I'll try to look again later tonight and I'll take a pic of it for you. Anymore questions you want me to look for in the book?

 

[Kent B]

I have looked at the pictures from the forum and read about following the hydraulic line from the pump to the screen but "my" line goes straight to the spin on filter. That is why I think that my 1710 is different from the 1700. Some of the pictures could have been of a 1710. I have read so many posts that I don't remember for sure.

If you find a screen definitely let me know. I won't worry if I don't find one.

Thanks for the reply.

Kent.

P.S.: My six-pack of POR15 came in today...:thumbsup: woo hoo!! This stuff is "da bomb". I am glad I got the 6, four ounce cans, instead of one larger one. I read that if you open a can and reseal it (without plastic wrap) the top might be permanently bonded to the can. Now THAT is my kind of paint right there. Too bad it doesn't stick like that to previous paint jobs. You have to strip it down to bare metal first.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

 

[MikeDspain]

So I looked at both manuals again and the factory manual only shows the spin on filter. The FO44 manual found at stores like Tractor Supply show the 1710 filter being in a totally different spot, they show it up by the motor. Well obviously ours are by the rear axle and that book is just wrong.

The factory manual is a good book with lots of info but the FO44 has more detailed info. In my opinion a person that is going to do self maintenance/repairs needs both books.