2001 BX2200 no power to solenoid

[martin_montreal]

Turning key results in provides power to fuel pump and glow plugs but not solenoid.

UPDATE from further testing: did not find a seat switch. Mower is on so the speed control switch can't be checked right now. Pulled ignition switch plug and although the green wire at the back of the connector came loose I am pretty sure I plugged it back in so that although I was hopeful, is not the issue. There is continuity from the engine side of that connector to both control wires at the starter so I am really suspicious of the safety switches at this point. Ideas and input welcome.

Background
~10 years ago I installed the relay to avoid an intermittent "tractor won't start" issue and it worked until now; had starter rebuilt once and re-checked last week a bit dirty but not bad, (cleaned contacts), along with new battery which was weak. Cold winters here so I don't mind doing this from a maintenance perspective. Checked 2 of the safety switches (PTO & Neutral) by cleaning and depressing them further in while turning key did not engage starter. It's a new relay.

Question
Since I pulled / reinstalled the starter and reconnected up my relay and fuses (checked both), I am unsure if I re-installed all the wires correctly. Was wondering if an expert or someone who has done this could take a quick look and check my connections before I spend more time on this per the above... I found my notes and some information on this but am still not sure if I didn't mix up a couple of them. Tractor is in the garage (of course)... Thanks you for anything you can help me with.

I noticed the relay click when I reattached the battery. It didn't start though. Tested when turning key and there was no power to either control wires i.e. my relay setup's blue or yellow / 30 & 87 respectively per the Legend below & pic - yes it's messy looking but that is because I am working on it. If / when I get it to start, I will clean it all up. There is power to the main red battery connection on the solenoid. As mentioned above, tested safety switches behind the wheel for neutral, and on the other side for PTO on / off, cleaned and depressed both a little further than they were depressed and still no start. I believe there is a third I need to find to test, at which point, a switch will be suspect. Again turning the key results in dash lights for fuel pump and glow plugs ... it's not getting power to the solenoid when the key is turned as far as I can tell so ideas welcome to diagnose and identify.

In the interim, if I need to cheat / move it and do a quick job, what needs to be crossed to hotwire it? lol

If it really is hooked up correctly now, could it be the ignition switch? If so, if I unplug that connector behind the key, is that a safer way to effectively hot wire and bypass the switch or is it deeper than that? Again, the switch works to turn all but the power to the solenoid on... I really doubt it's the switch, likely a connection somewhere. I am certain a pro would walk up to it and have it running within minutes but I am far from that obviously. p.s.: All the fuses are fine.

Legend
Blue 30
Red 85
White 86
Yellow 87
Green (the middle pin) 87 - I forget which is A v. B

 

[Rebeldad1]

get your meter out and do some testing. check the key switch first if everything else is getting power.

 

[martin_montreal]

get your meter out and do some testing. check the key switch first if everything else is getting power.

Thanks. I guess you didn't see the meter in the picture or the comments about the power in the post then but that switch is what I am wondering how to test... As written, turning the key powers the fuel pump but the last turn sends no power to the wires at the solenoid. There is power from the battery wire and connectivity from the switch to the control wires on the other side of the firewal.

 

[Rebeldad1]

if you are checking power at the switch and there isnt any and all else works its the switch. if checking power at where ever its supposed to be you need to trace back along the wire till you locate the problem.

 

[martin_montreal]

Down to this. Does anyone know what might be wrong here? Thanks.

 

[K5lwq]

Do you have the wiring diagram of that relay? It is not common for white wire to be ground. Green and sometimes black normally are ground.

 

[martin_montreal]

Do you have the wiring diagram of that relay? It is not common for white wire to be ground. Green and sometimes black normally are ground.

The colours are not standard but relate to these standard numbers so my question is from the picture, can you tell if and what I got wrong? I want to try to get it right then test or bypass then replace any defective safety switches (PTO engage, Neutral and I think that's all there are on this machine). Thanks!
Blue 30
Red 85
White 86
Yellow 87
Green (the middle pin unused) 87B

 

[K5lwq]

If you have a test light then do some test. You should have power to the blue wire anytime the switch is in the run position. You should have power to the red wire anytime the switch is in the start position. You should have power to either yellow or green when key is in the start position. You also should hear the relay click.

If you have power to the yellow wire once the key is in start position you need to make sure it is going to the starter solenoid on the small post.

 

[K5lwq]

Ok I have thought about this a little more. For a test, make sure tractor is in neutral and then disconnect the red wire from the white wire. Then disconnect the yellow wire from the white wire.

Now connect the two white wires together. Then disconnect the black wire with the white stripe and connect the yellow wire to where the black wire was.

Now if you power the red wire, preferably from the start position of the switch, the tractor should start. If you power the red wire temporarily, make sure you can disconnect when tractor starts or the starter will continue to be engaged.

If you have a test starter button you can just disconnect the relay altogether. Plug the white wires back together and go from the battery through the test switch then to the plug where the black wire is now.

I marked you picture in a sad attempt to show the connections. Lol

 

[LouNY]

I read through this last night and I see it's still going this morning.
One thing that got my attention was your method of testing your safety switches.
Just activating them further then normal is not testing them.
I assume you have a test light or a meter, do you have power to the input of the switches when trying to crank?
If you get power to the input are you getting power out when the switch is activated.
I am guessing that the relay you installed was being activated by the voltage through the safety switches.
In which case if the relay is activating with power applied to the common when activated it should send power to the NO
contact to the starter solenoid.

This is all assuming the solenoid you are referring to is the starter solenoid, and NOT the fuel solenoid.
Your fuel solenoid only gets power for a brief moment when the key is switched of by a timer relay, to stop the fuel flow.
It will fail to the run position.