2007 Jinma 284 (iron horse) will not start

[Circle G Tractors]

Try pumping you pump on the side of injection pump as someone has already suggested and see what happens. I have seen them lose there prime and this is a quick cure. If you need anything we will have it.

Ben
Circle G Tractor Sales, Inc.
855-330-5272

 

[chris85]

What I was able to do so far was to check for fuel at the banjo after the filter, used the hand pump and found no bubbles at all.
Then I pulled the high pressure lines (one by one) at the injectors and turned it over, fuel ran ok no sign of air.
Then reading a couple posts I started to focus on the glow plugs. It looks like they were never working as there was no power to them even though the light goes on. This was a used tractor and it looks like the hot to the GP was ran back to a push button switch, the push button is wired to a toggle that has a fused link that goes to the aux or the ignition??????? Maybe someone can tell me why this was done this way.
So after tracing the wire, the fused link had no fuse it so no juice would pass even if I had known to hold the push switch. Any idea what size fuse this should have? I put in a 20A and tested it, now getting 12V to the GPs. Still not starting so I read how to test GPs using an ohm meter to test continuity with one contact on the GP hot and the other on a ground point on the engine...there was no continuity...my next plan is to pull the GPs out for visual inspection...is there a better way to test them? other ideas?

 

[Diamondpilot]

What I was able to do so far was to check for fuel at the banjo after the filter, used the hand pump and found no bubbles at all.
Then I pulled the high pressure lines (one by one) at the injectors and turned it over, fuel ran ok no sign of air.
Then reading a couple posts I started to focus on the glow plugs. It looks like they were never working as there was no power to them even though the light goes on. This was a used tractor and it looks like the hot to the GP was ran back to a push button switch, the push button is wired to a toggle that has a fused link that goes to the aux or the ignition??????? Maybe someone can tell me why this was done this way.
So after tracing the wire, the fused link had no fuse it so no juice would pass even if I had known to hold the push switch. Any idea what size fuse this should have? I put in a 20A and tested it, now getting 12V to the GPs. Still not starting so I read how to test GPs using an ohm meter to test continuity with one contact on the GP hot and the other on a ground point on the engine...there was no continuity...my next plan is to pull the GPs out for visual inspection...is there a better way to test them? other ideas?

Is the timeing right? Have you ever seen it run?

Chris

 

[chris85]

Yes..see my first post..was running when I parked it in October

 

[Diamondpilot]

Yes..see my first post..was running when I parked it in October

Sorry, was thinking about another tractor. Are you sure your fuel shut off is not stuck? Check all the simple stuff again.

Chris

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Glow plugs are only an issue if the temperature is too cold for the engine to start without them. I don't know where in Mass you are but I'm right on the southern border and I started today without glow plugs, it was about 45 out. For me starting gets iffy at 50 and impossible at about 35 without some sort of help. When the engine is cold and not firing it produces copious amounts of thick grey smoke -- my garage becomes uninhabitable within about 10 seconds, and a passerby would think the building is on fire.

If that is what you are experiencing you need some sort of starting aid.

I have found that a miniscule amount of starting fluid on the air filter is all I need to get started if the glow plugs aren't working. Once one cylinder fires once that's enough heat for it to fire again, so think about enough to get one cylinder to fire -- not enough to even wet the filter, just a short blast. Do not use the glow plugs with starting fluid as it can lead to uncontrolled combustion (i.e. fire) and damage the engine.

 

[Circle G Tractors]

You may want to try changing your fuel filter, give us a call if you need anything.

Ben
Circle G Tractor Sales, Inc.
855-330-5272

 

[SPIKER]

The GLOW CIRCUIT should have a 30 amp fuse in it, I have a Circuit Breaker in mine which I HAVE had to reset a few times. The Glow Plugs pull about 10 amps (initially) when battery voltage is down a bit. If it is fully charged then they pull a bit less than 8.8amps NORMALLY (that is at about 13.4volts) for a short time as they HEAT UP they pull less power. If they put in a PUSH BUTTON then check where they have the hot wire hooked up. Normally someone does that they hook the button up HOT thru the fuse & do away with having to hold the KEY in the GLOW spot (GLOW spot is just back from crank and does not have a detente.)

(Battery "+" thru FUSE to Button then to the Glow Plug Buss Bar.) This means the glow plugs can be ON during Cranking which helps a lot but it also means that the SWITCH if it goes bad can cause glow plug damage and or dead battery fire ect...


Mark

 

[greg_g]

I'm wondering about the accuracy of your ammeter Mark. When cold, the GPs should pull close to 30A. If yours are truly only pulling 10, I doubt they're providing any effective pre-heat. Same with your volt meter. Since the alternator is not providing any juice during cranking, you should only see battery voltage (typically not more than 12.2v). If you're seeing 13.4v, something wrong.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

Still not starting so I read how to test GPs using an ohm meter to test continuity with one contact on the GP hot and the other on a ground point on the engine...there was no continuity...my next plan is to pull the GPs out for visual inspection...is there a better way to test them? other ideas?

Mark's right, 30A fuse. If you're not blowing that 20A, the GPs aren't getting enough voltage. Review my earlier reply about the GP relay and 10AWG wire. To check GP resistance, first disconnect the feed wire at the buss bar. With the keyswitch OFF, put the multimeter ground lead on the negative post of the battery, and the other lead on the buss bar. Take a reading, then move the ground lead to the engine block. Compare readings. Theoretical GP circuit resistance @70F is ~0.407 amps, but realistically it will measure a little less. If the two readings are quite far apart, the battery ground connection to the block is likely dirty. Clean both ends and repeat the measurements.

That's the gross test, it's a bit premature to get into measuring individual GP resistance just yet.

//greg//