25 HP vs 35 HP

[cphilip]

Except that diesels like to run in the higher end of the RPM range to keep clean. Most recommend running at 1800 to 2000 rpm most of the tme. And if you go over 25 HP your going to inherit the EPA. And there are tractors that have 25 HP and the same weight and size as their 35 HP cousins for a reason and thats the main reason. And a 25 HP tractor is geared completely different than a lawn mower at 25hp. Plus the shear mass size of the engine as well. There is a lot of torque difference between a 1.6L 3 cylinder 25 HP Diesel motor than a 25 HP 800 cc V twin gas motor and both have the same HP ratings. Lets face it, a 25 HP motor ran an 8N ford for all its life too. With gearing. There are some reasons one would get by with and then chose a 25HP and it do what you want almost all the time and at least well enough to live with one to eliminate some headaches of going bigger. And people do downsize to them given the right implements and accessories and application. They work for a lot of people if they fit the application. Playing devils advocate here...

 

[prof fate]

no diesel smoke and fumes - a BIG plus for me.
More hp? always a good thing..what is the downside to it? Maybe more fuel consumption but most folks don't use the tractor enough that it will be noticeable or a concern. More HP when you need it - nothting wrong wtih getting yoru work done sooner..better than wishing you had more power for a job. And you'll work it less hard - nice if yoy like low RPM I suppose. And you'll likely get your most of your money back on resale shoudl that ever be needed.
Since frame size is the same on 25/35 I see no downside to 10 more hp.

 

[Handloader109]

Cphilip, I agree about the 8N, but you don't see any 8Ns that had a fel. At least not OEM. No hydraulics except the 3pt hitch. Major difference in today's vs 80 year old tractor. Get the 35.

 

[Walter E Kurtz]

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Almost every new tractor is delivered with a glitch or two that requires correction. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment. Dealer proximity is less important to those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

Amen to this. I am a neophyte. I could not be happier that I went with a dealer who has been responsive to service needs as well as general questions. While I felt MF was a solid brand, as a newbie, I was a bit nervous not going orange or green. I am very happy with decision I made. No looking back

 

[Geotech]

Thanks for the great comments. I was pretty much settled on the Kioti CK3510HST...BUT, I'm also now considering the LS XG3140H. For about $1,200 more than the Kioti, it has 5 more HP, and about 300 lbs more lift capacity. Dealers for each tractor are relatively close to my property and they're both pretty good from what I can infer. The LS dealer is closed on Saturdays, but would meet me on a Saturday to make a sale. The Kioti dealer is open half a day Saturdays. I am typically only going to be at my property on the weekends, so those Saturday hours might be the deal maker/breaker since I'd like to have some tech support part of the time I'm using the tractor. I need to get a third function and grapple, a box blade and a rotary cutter. So there will be some room for the dealers to be creative with package deal pricing.

 

[cphilip]

If your looking at the Kioti 3510 you certainly should look at the SE model. You get a lot of extras for just a few more dollars. Probably worth the extra once you've decided on the 3510. Its about as much more as you are considering paying for the Kubota for example. Look at it anyway.

 

[ch1ch2]

agreed, I have a skid steer for the log work, much less dangerous, more stable, less stress on equip, if you are looking for one machine to do it all get the heaviest/most lift weight/most HP you can afford - versatility is one thing, trying to use something to its marginal limits is when we get into trouble and more dangerous as well. We have NO pine in my parts, oak/hickory/walnut/hedge/locust so when u grab a log u have weight, for logs when my skid steer is not available and I need to move some distance I use a 706 Farmall w/loader - it weighs 13K with the loader and cab so be sure you have enough tractor - I cut my logs 8 to 14 feet to get them out of the timber/to the road and on a trailer or road them to my house - they are heavy - the saw mill I take them to sometimes has its own lift arms on it, u roll the log up to it and it loads the log on the track to feed it on the mill - a friend of mine just sold his Montana mill and I think it was manual load

be sure you have ballast, that is crucial when working with this stuff out on the front of the tractor, I have had my skid steer on its nose a few times due to uneven ground - I was even going extra SLOW and knew it was uneven, even subtle dips can be dangerous when you are handling more than 75% of capacity because when weight shifts you don't have a lot of options and the wheels are off the ground!!!!

what you are doing is NOT small so thinking small is out of the question

This can not be emphasized enough!

 

[Geotech]

@cphilip, that's a good idea. The goodies on the SE model might well be worth the trade-off of the HP and FEL lift capacity on the LS (LS Tractor, not LS series Kubota). Especially when evaluating the against the LS dealer not being open on Saturdays...I have a feeling that if a better price can be negotiated, it would be more possible to work with whatever is on the lot and not a special order. One thing I have noticed is that the dealers around here don't seem to stock the SE models. That may change toward the end of the year when I plan to make the purchase.

 

[prof fate]

I'm sure price varies - dealer told me the SE is $2500 upgrade...seemed high.
MOST of that I got for $600..rear remotes, link pedal, cruise, horn, floor mat, wires over the hoses. Didn't get tele 3 pt but not sure I'd want them...you can't get exactly tight I"m sure and with an 850 lb brush hog or when discing I want solid tight. Most of my implements are cat 1 (width) but I have 1 that is 0 and another (the big brushog) that is 2, so both take an extra minute to wind the stabilizers in/out. But it's a no-flex final setup. and since I use them constantly (and well, they're new) they move like butter.

I'm not sure what else you get...I had LED worklights from my last tractor, $40 on amazon. I added a tool box..1/2 hour no cost as I had it.


Teh saturday morning hours are GREAT - it's when I usually hit the dealer as all close at 5 during the week.

For 1200 more you could probably get the CK40. I was quoted 1800..but I wasn't getting other implements. I also got free delivery, free filled tires.

Extra lift...my rear lifts long before the front is at capacity. Only once have I had 'the issue' of can't lift it, unloading a bundle of green rought cut maple..so I did it in stages. Once..no big deal. Weekly? Yeah, it'd get annoying.

Haven't lifted a round bale yet (come fall i will) but ti's 1/2 or less the lift capacity. I don't plan to stack automobiles...LOL

Might come down to the ergonomics of each tractor, what you like/dislike on a personal level.

I don't know (but suspect) the price jumps I was quoted for SE and 40hp were higher becausae they had the ck35 in stock and wanted it moved to my farm LOL

If your looking at the Kioti 3510 you certainly should look at the SE model. You get a lot of extras for just a few more dollars. Probably worth the extra once you've decided on the 3510. Its about as much more as you are considering paying for the Kubota for example. Look at it anyway.

 

[NYCheese]

Having just purchased a ck3510se, I can tell you the price difference I was given between the 2 models was 1600 dollars. The dealer had both models on the lot, if that's the difference.