4 Cylinder Gas Engine No Spark- Help, Please

[MossRoad]

It runs! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Points and condenser did it. Thanks everyone!!! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Jagmandave]

Congrats, I knew you could do it, especially with all the help you can get around here!

 

[MossRoad]

<font color="blue"> Penetrating oil on that advance mechanism may help it free up. </font>

I vacuumed it out and blew it out with air a few times, then oiled it up several times over two days. Cleaned it out as best I could and things seem to move OK in there now.

This has been a great refresher course in how things use to be before electronic ignition.

Also, when I fired it up it started accelerating RPMs and I had no throttle response, so I shut it down. Forgot to hook up the governor. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[Jagmandave]

Having learned all this, you know you can put an electronic ignition system in there for about $50? I did it on my old E-Type cause the points were so hard to reach.

 

[_RaT_]

I had a MasterCraft ski boat that had points/condenser. I swapped out the advance plate that held the points and condensor and put in an electronic setup. It eliminated the yearly points replacement when the boat sat idle all winter long rusting the insides of the distibutor away.

 

[MossRoad]

Yeah, I saw that when I was searching the web for information. Let's add up the costs here...

Points and condenser... $25.00.
Electronic ignition module... $65.00, plus it requires a larger coil for another $25.00.

So, $90.00 VS $25.00 and I'm selling the unit this year. However, if I were going to keep it, I'd go with the electronic module. It looked pretty nice.

A question... do you have to keep the advance weights with the electonic module? I would think so, as that effects timing, not the spark, correct?

 

[MossRoad]

Hey! Here's a link to a video of the tractor firing up for the first time. It's about 1 minute long and about half a meg in size. Windows media player format. Enjoy! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

That's three year old fuel treated with Stabil, by the way. I cleaned out the sediment bowl and changed the fuel filter, too. It pops once(a 1 second blast of starting fluid). Then I crank it until it fires on the gas. The engine starts to rev too high so I shut it down and remember to connect the governor. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Then I hit it again and off it went.

Started leaking hydraulic fluid from the steering cylinder hoses, so those need to be replaced. Also started pumping a bit of cold water out of the overflow under the radiator cap after about 5 minutes of running. Any thoughts on that? What is pressurizing the radiator after a short time? Could it be indicitive of a water pump problem, cracked block, bad head gasket, etc...?

 

[Egon]

Neat video /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Run the tractor for a while with the rad cap off to eliminate any air bubbles in the system.

Egon

 

[MossRoad]

Finally got my camera back... just wanted to show everyone what I was dealing with in the distributor with the rust and the points stuck open. After I cleaned it up, changed the points and condenser and put the new needle and seat in the carb, it starts up at idle and runs fine now.

One more thanks to all with the help! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[hobbyfarm]

MossRoad,
That's terrible. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif The inside should look almost like a "clean room" in need of a good sweeping. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif I admire your stones for posting such a photo.
Let the backstabbing begin.....

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