50-56 code

   / 50-56 code
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Just got a little more interesting. Unplugged directional switch and put in new fuse. Turn switch to on (not crank) and fuse blows. Plugged in directional switch and put in new fuse. Turn switch to on position(not crank) and fuse blows. Additional note the code has cleared and no new codes appeared.
 
   / 50-56 code #12  
Just got a little more interesting. Unplugged directional switch and put in new fuse. Turn switch to on (not crank) and fuse blows. Plugged in directional switch and put in new fuse. Turn switch to on position(not crank) and fuse blows. Additional note the code has cleared and no new codes appeared.
Its sounding like there may be a wire rub but lets keep going with the items that fuse 2 powers. Next items to locate and check are the attachment controls switches if your unit has them. These switches are located aft on the center console just in back of the arm rest. You may want to remove the console cover. this will give you a good peak at the wires and switches. While under there and next after the attachments find and unplug the joystick plug. As before unplug each item one at a time and do fuse test. :thumbsup:
 
   / 50-56 code
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#13  
Started checking items powered by fuse 2. Long story short, all wheel steer seems to be the culprit. Turned this off, replaced fuse and no short or code. After putting toolcat back in shed, turned all wheel steer on and fuse blows and code 50-56 pops up. AWS off, replace fuse and cranks up with no code(reproducible). I'll need to chase down that problem(AWS), but I am much closer now. Just wanted to give an update and say thx to everyone.
One more thing. If you need to remove control panel for any reason. Remove right side console and the tabs behind control panel can be accessed easily.
 
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#14  
Chased wires (from AWS switch) down to solenoid on steering and cargo box valve. Unplugged solenoid with wires 4540&1850 running to it. My electrical schematics are smudged and can't see where these wire's numbers on schematic, so assumptions are being made. Can flip AWS switch without blowing fuse, therefore assuming wiring from switch to solenoid is not a problem. Also so assuming this controls solenoid for rear steering.
Feel free to comment on assumptions.
Questions: 1 whats the best way to test solenoid safely short of removing. (Steering cargo box valve looks like a bear to remove)
2. Will a bad solenoid ground out or cause a fuse to blow
 
   / 50-56 code #15  
All 4 of the AWS magnetic solenoids receive 12v supply from the 4510 wire. Solenoids should have approximately 7.5 Ohms resistance. Verify each solenoid with Ohm meter.
 
   / 50-56 code #16  
Why can't the manufacturers spend about $1-2 for a memory chip to contain the script to define those codes. We get codes on our car. Actually, worse that that. We just get a little symbol. Then we have to pay the dealer $99 for something AutoZone or Advance Auto do free to tell us what the code is.

Yet, when a light bulb burns out, it tells me which bulb and where it is.

Ralph
 
   / 50-56 code
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#17  
The suspected solenoid is reading 0.6 ohms while other 3 read 6.8-7.6 ohms.
 
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#19  
That's what I'm thinking. 0.6 Ohms is close to a dead short. You ever see one of these solenoids go bad.
 
   / 50-56 code #20  
In most cases a magnetic coil like this fails as an Open circuit, but is possible to fail as short to ground.
 
 
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