77 Satoh Beaver S370D wont start, low compression

[Ilikeurtractor]

When you recheck the compression, move the fuel lever to off (forward) and crack open the fuel line nuts on the injector for the cylinder you're testing. This will ensure no fuel is getting injected in the cylinder to throw your readings high as sufficient compression may cause it to burn or vaporize and an associated increase in pressure. The highest compression value I ever got on any of my tractors was around 400 psig. The manual calls out new as 455 psig @ 2800 rpm. Good luck with getting to 2800 rpm and checking the compression!

 

[thepumpguysc]

THAT IS a weird spec??
How in the heck are you gonna reach 2800rpm?? Now I could see a mis-print & its 280 but even THATS hi..
I think cranking fuel output check for the injection pump, on the teststand is 200??

Thanks for pointing the fuel shut-off on the compr. check. ILIKE..
Sometimes we forget the "normal to us" things.. cuz I TOTALLY forgot that part.. & your right again, THATS PROB. where the extra PSI readings are coming from !!!

 

[HomesteadOC]

Im off today, but theres a lot of stuff going on. Son and I have to go to preschool, but Ill check compression correctly after I get home. I tried starting before we left to get some pictures and video.
Heres the short starting video, should be able to see the smoke, but its more white than before.

Heres the pictures of fuel system and ignition rewiring. The wires are thicker than what was there and I didnt have a variety of wire colors, but I did have a variety of electrical tape to wrap them in.
New ignition wiring landed to alternator, and starter wrapped in red, glow plugs yellow, starter go switch is yellow with black stripes.

Glow plug jumpers wrapped in kevlar heat sheild electric tape and the fuel injector jumper disconnected.

Fuel filter and new hoses from the tank

Battery dated 9/15, topped off with distilled water and connected to charger/jumper.

Glow plug indicator, you can see the glowing red faintly, this is after 30s in daylight. Its easier to see in person, but thats the best shot I got with my hand holding the key back.

 

[HomesteadOC]

Could only post 1 video per post...
Heres the starting video before all the fuel system replacing yesterday.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

You'll definitely need to get your cranking speeds up. It "sounds" to me like your compression is ok, but I'm going out on a limb here and making the assumption the starting system is in decent shape. The G154 I re-ringed would spin extremely freely before the re-ring. I wish I would have captured it in a video. I would say it is getting enough fuel but black smoke would be welcome at this point. Make sure you have a good battery like you already mentioned and verify your battery cables are correctly sized (I recommend nothing smaller than 2 gauge) and the terminals are clean. The starter may need to be replaced, but first check the previous items. Gotta love that wiring! I don't think most people appreciate a tractor that is mechanically and electrically correct. Old school diesels do not rely on any electrical once they're running but it sure helps in getting them started as you are finding out The problem is these things are generally down-played upon first inspection, if even noticed at all. What is usually seen is the cosmetic condition of the sheet metal and paint. Therefore if the tractor looks bad in these regards, then the assumption is the rest of it is in disrepair too which is generally a good assumption but not always the case. Anybody who had to redo wiring and/or make a lot of mechanical repairs will appreciate finding a tractor with the stock wiring intact and the fact the machine has not been butchered up mechanically. See fxr55's posts in the Iseki section as it is a classic, worst-case scenario. Yes, paint and cosmetics take a lot of effort to do correctly and can cost a lot too. One of the first things you'll want to check once it's running is the charging state of the alternator. Hopefully it will just work for you but if not keep us posted and we can help out.

 

[HomesteadOC]

Id say the battery needs to be replaced, Im missing the battery clamp on mine and its a liitle wider than stock because the hood has trouble cosing around it. Anyone know the correct battery part number or at least the dimensions? I was also thinking injectors could be taken out and soaked in something for a while, but what? Whats the proper way to deep clean an injector, or is it a rebuild only type of deal? Battery cables are at least a 4 gauge, but looks like 2 gauge. They look a little raggity, so they might need an update to some bigger stuff at a later date. Id like to install an onboard inverter, as a cheap alternative to a generator. I know the cranking speeds are low, and I think its mostly the battery it dies quickly even plugged in when I crank for 2 or 3 times. Maybe Ill pull my optima from my ford escape and try that out. The escape is one of the broke down cars, but I've got it on a trickle charger.

FYI Every connection I did on the electrical system was dipped in dielectric grease, long term it helps prevent corrosion and it gives much better contact and connection for previously rusted electrical components. A can is cheap and it last longer than the aerosol in there so mine I peeled back the bottom of the can and now its a little dipper tube with razor sharp edges, lol.

 

[HomesteadOC]

I gotta hand it to ya Home.. your keepin at it.. Your not makin any progress but your keepin at it.. LOL..
And THANK YOU for keeping us up to date on your "doings".. MOST people come on here, ask a bazillion questions, get a bazillion answers & then disappear..
I wish you could snap/post a picture of your fuel system set-up.. w/ a pic. I might be able to tell you how to hack into the fuel system.
Keep at it.. ALL those things that your fixing now.. HAD TO BE DONE sooner than later..
Glow plugs DEFINATLY had to be replaced & the key switch "needed" to be corrected..
NOW, if we could just get confirmation on those dam compression #'s.. lol.

Thanks for the encouragement, I really want this thing to get going. Maybe the reason everyone else disappears is that they fix it really fast and I just have no clue what Im doing, lol? The biggest reason I want this going asap is that my mother and grandmother in law think Im a moron for wasting $2500 on a non running tractor. It doesnt help that the MIL lives next door and the GIL lives caddy corner behind the MIL.

 

[Kernopelli]

I have never owned a 2 cylinder Mitsubishi but have had several 3 & 4 cylinder models, the 3 cylinder models are very hard to start with slow cranking speeds, even at moderately warm temps. The video indicates your's are very slow. You may just find that a new battery will correct your no start issue. Pay no attention to the inlaws, the day will come when they want you to use your awesome little 370 to do some work for them..... "Come what may, all bad fortune is to be conquered by endurance". Virgil

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

Id like to install an onboard inverter, as a cheap alternative to a generator. I know the cranking speeds are low, and I think its mostly the battery it dies quickly even plugged in when I crank for 2 or 3 times. Maybe Ill pull my optima from my ford escape and try that out. The escape is one of the broke down cars, but I've got it on a trickle charger.

The idea of using an inverter in place of a generator is actually a great idea. I have a 2kW inverter and has run everything I've thrown at it while running off the tractor.

A jump start should get you going. Same rules apply for jumper cables as the battery cables - 2 gauge or better. If you are careful you can clamp directly to the + starter lug bypassing the + battery terminal. Same strategy for ground. No use forcing more through what could already be taxed battery leads.

 

[HomesteadOC]

I have never owned a 2 cylinder Mitsubishi but have had several 3 & 4 cylinder models, the 3 cylinder models are very hard to start with slow cranking speeds, even at moderately warm temps. The video indicates your's are very slow. You may just find that a new battery will correct your no start issue. Pay no attention to the inlaws, the day will come when they want you to use your awesome little 370 to do some work for them..... "Come what may, all bad fortune is to be conquered by endurance". Virgil

Shes already had me use the craftsman gt5000 to haul some logs for her, if I had the bucket it wouldve been easier.

I retested compression the correct way with injectors unhooked and throttle all the way forward, i did notice fuel coming out of the injector lines anyway. I tried 2 times with the other plug in and other plug out and got the same readings of 300psi #1 and 355psi #2. A lot less than 455 and 550 as before, but still more than my baseline of 275 and 300. The glow plugs get super hot, but in sunlight I cant tell if theyre white or red or whatecer. They smoke all the diesel off and the top is too hot to hold against the negative side of the battery. I went to swap the optima in and realized my trickle charger was no longer plugged in so that battery is dead too. I put that one on a charge and will take the other one to get it checked at an autoparts store and will probably end up buying a new one. I took measurements for the correct battery at 9.5L, 5W, 7T. Length and width are set by the tray, but the height is variable and could probably fit up to an 8.5-9” tall battery there.