94 Ford F250 battery cable

[Alan L.]

The terminal for the positive side of one of the batteries (diesel) is loose and wallowed out and you can't get it tight. I would get a new terminal and clamp it on there, but the problem is that the terminal is not at the end of the cable. Instead, the cable keeps going past the battery.

Anyone know of a way to fix this without replacing the entire cable? The replacement cable is $100 but more importantly it appears it would be very difficult to replace - its long and goes down in the engine compartment to the starter, etc where you can't see it.

 

[Dmace]

If I am reading your problem correct then just the connector is coming loose, if that is the problem then just get a new "Flag" connector and replace it. That cable is 2/0 AWG so here is the connector I would use: Battery Flag Connector Terminal | 2/0 Gauge 4320N Negative Flag Clamp - Remy Battery

 

[jinman]

If I am reading your problem correct then just the connector is coming loose, if that is the problem then just get a new "Flag" connector and replace it. That cable is 2/0 AWG so here is the connector I would use: Battery Flag Connector Terminal | 2/0 Gauge 4320N Negative Flag Clamp - Remy Battery

Derek, how do you crimp that flag connector? Isn't it possible the crimping tool and connector will be more than the whole new cable?

 

[Dmace]

My local VIP Auto and NAPA Auto parts stores have the crimp tools they rent for free ($50 deposit returned when tool is returned). I also found a good vise, hammer and chisel work really well in a pinch too!

 

[Western]

My grandfather used a penny for that one time, basically just a shim.

 

[J_J]

The copper penny/washer will probably work. Put the penny on top of a vise opened to about 1/2 in, and lay the penny/washer on top, and lay a rod across the penny/washer and smack it to round it. Then insert it in the clamp and tighten down. I have an F-250 diesel, and if the battery cable came loose, that is what I would do.

Could use one of these and connect both cable ends to the terminad stud.

http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/03110/icn/20-343426/east_penn/00354.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sUBo10H96Y&feature=email

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXDkNMDDrBs&feature=email

 

[jinman]

My local VIP Auto and NAPA Auto parts stores have the crimp tools they rent for free ($50 deposit returned when tool is returned). I also found a good vise, hammer and chisel work really well in a pinch too!

Aha! I knew there was more to it than I was seeing. I'm not too crazy about the hammer and chisel method, but renting a crimper sounds like a plan.

 

[czechsonofagun]

I made many good cables using welding lugs from TSC, welding cable. solder and plumber's torch. You melt the solder inside the lug hole and when it is a nice puddle, just insert the end of the cable (with insulation cut off). It lasts forever, there is no space for any oxydation and it looks good. I usually cover it where possible with shrinkable tubing to minimize the exposed metal.

 

[Alan L.]

If I am reading your problem correct then just the connector is coming loose, if that is the problem then just get a new "Flag" connector and replace it. That cable is 2/0 AWG so here is the connector I would use: Battery Flag Connector Terminal | 2/0 Gauge 4320N Negative Flag Clamp - Remy Battery

That looks EXACTLY like what I need! There is talk of crimping with a tool or using a vice - any chance I am going to be able to connect this on the truck without pulling the entire harness off the truck? Also, I wonder if the cable could be soldered to the connector?

Looks like I would need to cut the existing terminal off the cable with bolt cutters and be sure to leave enough wire to work with.

 

[J_J]

If the cable is long enough after cutting out the bad section, and you have the correct cable crimper, then you should be able to do it while still in the truck.