94 Ford F250 battery cable

[jinman]

I agree with J_J, except to say that sometimes cable connections may have lots of corrosion as far as 1-1/2" up inside the insulation. I think you are going to have to find a way to clean off the corrosion and neutralize the acid before crimping on a new connector. The perfect crimp connection will be so tight that it will be liquid and even vapor proof. It's not likely you will be able to reproduce such a good connection by doing it on the truck, but it may be good enough to last a very long time if you get it clean enough. Preparation of the wire before crimping will easily be 80% to 90% of the job. Starting a diesel pulls so much current from your batteries that you need every little strand of wire to do its job or the connection will overheat and bad things will happen.

 

[Western]

You could soak the end in a cup of Coke Cola for 5 or 10 minutes then wipe with oil. Has always worked for me on battery post/connections. I pour a Coke on it, dry it off and oil.

I never get corrosion.

 

[Chuck52]

If you can't get insulation all around the metal, a nice gob of dielectric grease will keep it from corroding....of course you then have a nice gob of grease to collect junk.

Chuck

 

[Dmace]

You shouldn't have a problem getting that connector on without removing the cable. Removing the cable is not easy, I replaced that cable on my 94 F-350 diesel when I replaced the starter.

If you cannot get the crimp tool from your local parts store as a rental then try using a C-clamp. I have been able to start crimping a connector with a large C-clamp and finish it off with a hammer.

 

[IH3444]

Solder it in....That's what I do to all of my battery/wire connectors. Crimping encourages corrosion pockets. Besure to clean off all flux paste. Fill that void up with solder.

 

[czechsonofagun]

Solder it in....That's what I do to all of my battery/wire connectors. Crimping encourages corrosion pockets. Besure to clean off all flux paste. Fill that void up with solder.

Exactly my point - great minds think alike

 

[jinman]

Solder it in....That's what I do to all of my battery/wire connectors. Crimping encourages corrosion pockets. Besure to clean off all flux paste. Fill that void up with solder.

If you solder, do not use plumbing acid flux. Electrical soldering should use rosin flux only. You can clean off the rosin flux with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol).

 

[IH3444]

I usually use the electrical solder that has the flux already with it. And as Czech says use shrink tubing. That's what I do also. Then cover with either another layer of shrink, and or back over the joint with electrical tape. Ready for Indy, or the moon shot. hehehe

 

[Chuck52]

Instead of standard electrical tape I might use the new epoxy tape that bonds to itself and makes a nice seal. I've used it only for plumbing so far, but it says on the packaging that it is also good for electrical insulation, and unlike standard electrical tape, when it is applied properly it shouldn't come unwound.

Chuck

 

[Alan L.]

Are we talking solder by using a torch, or a soldering iron? I have sweated pipes and I have soldered small wires with a soldering iron, but haven't done electrical with a torch. I suppose I will need a plumber's torch and rosin core solder?

Get a bunch of solder melted in there then shove the wire in? Or put the wire in and solder what you can see?

How can I be sure my truck is a 2/0 wire for when I purchase the flag connector?

Seems like I am going to have to be very careful how I cut the wire or it will end up too short. I wonder if the wire is continous all the way through the existing connector, or if it is two wires coming into it? I was wondering if I could heat it up and pull the wires out.

I use a crimp tool should I be able to get enough leverage on the tool to crimp it with the connector in the truck?