A few (probably) dumb questions.

[ArlyA]

Just be aware that those saplings you are cutting off 6" tall turn into spears as they dry out...they like to pierce tires.

And they will sometimes go through atv and utv tires.

 

[Slomo928]

Lots of good comments here, but let me add one thought. If your bush hog is older, sharpen it. That way you are cutting not thrashing and bashing the brush. It is easier on the implement and the tractor. I run an old Howse four foot on a Kubota BX 25D. It does a far better job kept sharp.

 

[Hodado]

My brother gave me a older brushcutter and i was wondering about the best method to sharpen the blades,they seem impossible to remove.I have it on a 855 jd and have always questioned whether it is too big for it

 

[LouNY]

My brother gave me a older brushcutter and i was wondering about the best method to sharpen the blades,they seem impossible to remove.I have it on a 855 jd and have always questioned whether it is too big for it

Often it is possible to tip the mower up on it's side and use a 4 1/3" grinder to sharpen the blade if desired. Personally I have never sharpened a set on mine, I prefer a dull blade as it does not slice off the brush stubs leaving a sharp spear point on it it does tend to break and shatter the ends.

 

[LouNY]

In response to the OP, you mention getting a top and tilt kit. If you do so check the pto shaft length in a lift and tilt possibilities. I run my brush hogs in rough ground, I may be backing over a ditch and extending my (hydraulic) top link to drop the rear of the mower down in the ditch and I may have the front of the mower lower then the tires of the tractor which needs the pto shaft to be longer then normal. Or I may have it lifted as high as the 3 point can go and the top link retracted as much as possible and maybe even pushing back into a bank lifting the rear even higher, so now the pto shaft needs to be shorter then normal. I have come close to hitting the pto shaft on the top of the A frame and have had the shaft guard hitting the front of the deck which almost bent the shaft.
When I check shaft length I don't have the shaft connected to the tractor, I will raise the 3 point all the way up and then shorten the top link as much as possible. Now I will scope the shaft together as much as possible and see if I can connect it, ideally it will be just barely able to clear the end of the shaft and slide on.
The same way with the top link extended as much as possible raise and lower the lift arms checking for the length again without it connected, it is good to have the mower over a ditch so the tail can drop as much as possible.
Now you will have an idea of the length you will need and sometimes it will not be possible to reach each extreme and you will have to decide which configuration you desire.
Too short it can come apart while working it and the pieces can be rough on things,
too long and it can and will damage pto drives and gear boxes.

Mine are cut so that when the brush hog is lifted and top link is shortened it still has 3-4 inches that it can collapse before binding. So I can back into and clip steep banks behind me.
It has been over extended a couple of times trimming ditch banks, the mower A frame contained both fee ends with out much damage. One time I had to replace one half of the shaft the other time both halfs but the u joints and couplings were good just replace the sliding members.

 

[Jimmyob]

Here's a small piece of info. If you're brush hogging and hit a stump or rock as I have done a few times, the hog may start shaking and wobbling and you think you broke it. What happens is sometimes a blade folds in so it's out of balance. Easy fix. Kill the pto and let it come to a full stop. Re-engage pto and unless you've done major damage, you're back in business. What a relief.
Keep asking questions, there's alot of knowledge on these sites. Good luck, have fun, be safe!