A timber frame cabin memoir

[caver]

With the holidays I got sidetracked. One thing I have found out is 1.5" rim board x 14" is hard to find. The kit provider said I can get 1-1/8" rim board and scab 3/8" plywood on it. The lumber yard where I currently own a house (Sikeston) said they could get it awhiole back. Well everything was good until the guy called the order in and found out the 1.5" they carried was more like a LVL product and another 2$ per linear foot. Luckily I was chatting with the head cheese while his son was on the phone with the vendor placing an order. So they gave me back my check and will get 1-1/8" rim board from same place I ordered I joists from or Menards. My I-joists are ordered from a lumber yard in Mt View Mo. They also ordered a few short LVL's needed to frame around the stair opening and some single/dual hangers.

 

[caver]

I've started on nailing down joists. A very slow process by myself having to cut about 2" of each one. So framing will be coming up and many windows I have are shown as 36"x48." I have not committed to a window brand yet but are all the manufacturers similar in rough opening? There's a lumber yard 50 miles away that carries some better brands and I plan to talk to them for feedback. I plan to install the windows at a later date when my old house has been sold. The current goal is walls sheeting then take a break to sell my current home.

 

[Carl_NH]

I would suggest picking your window brand and sizes before you start your framing, as you need jacks, and headers and the opening a 1/2 " larger all around. Check to see if you need egress/exit windows too - I think 36x48 may qualify size wise, but you may want to go a bit taller like 36x52-54". Also for exterior doors/patio/sliders to match but most of those are standard sizes 6/0x6/8 - 3/0x6/8 etc.

For windows you have all the big brands - Anderson, Pella etc., and if you are OK with white, and standard stock sizes, and build your own jambs etc. they can be cost effective . But if want non standard sizes, and color choices, extension jambs prices will climb very quickly.

There are good vinyl units out there - Simonton is regarded as a good product, and I used a local brand Matthews Bros based in Maine which made a very good quality 32x64 DH unit with grills and screens for $450 ea last year and the same spec in Anderson was $800.

 

[Gator6x4]

I've started on nailing down joists. A very slow process by myself having to cut about 2" of each one. So framing will be coming up and many windows I have are shown as 36"x48." I have not committed to a window brand yet but are all the manufacturers similar in rough opening? There's a lumber yard 50 miles away that carries some better brands and I plan to talk to them for feedback. I plan to install the windows at a later date when my old house has been sold. The current goal is walls sheeting then take a break to sell my current home.

While waiting if me I would cover the windows from the outside with clear heavy plastic film to prevent moisture penetration.

 

[Carl_NH]

While waiting if me I would cover the windows from the outside with clear heavy plastic film to prevent moisture penetration.

Typically, you cover/sheath and wrap the entire wall over the window openings, and only cut those openings when installing the windows.

 

[caver]

Typically, you cover/sheath and wrap the entire wall over the window openings, and only cut those openings when installing the windows.

Yes that's my plan. I can take a break and move towards selling my home over 100 miles away. Right now when I'm here I rent the neighbors cabin but the neighbor is coming back in April.

 

[Carl_NH]

Caver - I saw a build recently on interior finish instead of extension jambs and trim, they drywalled extension jambs and corners, with a flat 1x sill piece. Made for a clean look and no other trim needed. May not be your style, but i can tell you it takes a lot of work and wood, painting and caulking to trim a window out - about 60-80 LF of 1x material or more.

 

[dstig1]

You really need to know the windows first and find out the RO requirements. +1/2" on both sides and the top is common. You can, and I would argue should, add 1/2" on the bottom too and put a piece of beveled siding clapboard under the window before you make the window pan to encourage any water that gets in to go back out. Then a couple plastic shims under the window to allow the sill to drain. And finally don't seal the window to the housewrap on the bottom - sides and top only. You seal the window to the sill on the inside only and then fill gaps on the sides and top with low expanding foam (or possibly sealant - there are both schools of thought on this...)

 

[EddieWalker]

If I'm buying windows off the shelf, like Home Depot or Lowes, I go to the store and measure the opening. They will have the exact measurements on the packaging too, but I want to put a tape on them first. Windows are either exact measurements, or they are half an inch less then what they say they are.

A 36 inch wide window could be exactly 36 inches wide, or it could be 35 1/2 inches wide. Whatever the exact width is, I frame the opening half in inch bigger. This gives me a quarter inch on each side to fit the window into the opening, and still have plenty of flange for sealing the window.

I personally like to caulk the seal, and then tape it with ZIP Tape. I also like to use Hardie Screws to attach the window. But that's just me, I really like Hardie Screws!!!

If you are having windows custom made, then just tell them what our openings are and they will order the windows half an inch smaller then your opening. Cost for custom made windows isn't much different then off the shelf.

I personally prefer metal window frames over plastic ones. The argument for plastic, or vinyl, is that it doesn't transfer outside temperatures like metal does. The argument against plastic is that they are ugly, bulky and they don't open as easily as metal windows do.

Be careful of the "extras" that some of the windows try to add on to sell for more money. They will be some kind of energy saving gimmick that you will never notice or see any benefit from. Buy windows based on what you like the look of, the way the window opens, and how many panes of glass you want. 2 pane is the standard, 3 pane will give you a higher R value and sound quality. I've only seen 4 pane once, and that was close to a major airport where the jet engines where very loud.

 

[caver]

Anyone use Windsor windows? I like they are in the midwest and this window guy on YT seems to like them. Meeks lumber down in West Plains are a dealer. The place I got my I-joists from I think can get Andersen. I have to figure out all this double I-joists, hangers and fillers for my stair opening so working on that today, just decided to take a break. Still waiting on the roofer. He said he's busier than a cat covering up sh*t.