Backhoe Added a ripper to my Woods BH90x: Trees beware

   / Added a ripper to my Woods BH90x: Trees beware
  • Thread Starter
#81  
Those are about the same or a little bigger size as the "choke cherry" that makes up about 50% of what I am dealing with. The issue will be how deep the root system is and whether those trees have a significant tap root or not. To my delight the choke cherry has no tap root of note and the lateral roots are almost all within about a foot or so of the surface. I'll be interested how the ripper does on the oak roots.

If I were approaching one of those I'd rip all four sides then push with the loader/grapple to knock it over. Remaining roots usually just break when you lift the root ball to push or drag it away. One thing you will find is that those lateral trunks that hang out will interfere with getting the ripper close to the main root ball. Sometimes I just work around those and sometimes I use the ripper to just break them off separately. Choke cherry is easy to break, not so sure about your oak.

Good luck.
 
   / Added a ripper to my Woods BH90x: Trees beware #82  
Nickel Plate,

Denise just checked the UPS Site, they are still looking for your Ripper. We'll put them out of their misery tomorrow. Thanks for letting us know it showed up.

Happy ripping.
 
   / Added a ripper to my Woods BH90x: Trees beware
  • Thread Starter
#83  
MichiganIron said:
Nickel Plate,

Denise just checked the UPS Site, they are still looking for your Ripper. We'll put them out of their misery tomorrow. Thanks for letting us know it showed up.

Happy ripping.
Click to expand...

Hey Bob, once you put UPS out of their misery, how about refocusing on a quick attach implement system for tractor mounted backhoes? There are several simple systems for much bigger hoes that seem like they could be easily scaled down. A little CAD, a little CNC, a little welding...shouldn't be so hard. Then you can reengage with UPS which might be a bit more challenging.:thumbsup:
 
   / Added a ripper to my Woods BH90x: Trees beware #84  
The Backhoe QA is already in the computer. We are still going 6 days/wk on Snow Plows / Snow Blowers in the shop. Looks like we will come over the hump in December. The Backhoe QA around the 1st of the year???

Maybe the proto-type should be for a BH-90X ?
 
   / Added a ripper to my Woods BH90x: Trees beware
  • Thread Starter
#85  
MichiganIron said:
The Backhoe QA is already in the computer. We are still going 6 days/wk on Snow Plows / Snow Blowers in the shop. Looks like we will come over the hump in December. The Backhoe QA around the 1st of the year???

Maybe the proto-type should be for a BH-90X ?
Click to expand...

Sounds good to me. Put me on the list.:thumbsup:
 
   / Added a ripper to my Woods BH90x: Trees beware #86  
MichiganIron said:
The Backhoe QA is already in the computer. We are still going 6 days/wk on Snow Plows / Snow Blowers in the shop. Looks like we will come over the hump in December. The Backhoe QA around the 1st of the year???

Maybe the proto-type should be for a BH-90X ?
Click to expand...
Bob, You have my vote!
 
   / Added a ripper to my Woods BH90x: Trees beware #87  
IslandTractor said:
Those are about the same or a little bigger size as the "choke cherry" that makes up about 50% of what I am dealing with. The issue will be how deep the root system is and whether those trees have a significant tap root or not. To my delight the choke cherry has no tap root of note and the lateral roots are almost all within about a foot or so of the surface. I'll be interested how the ripper does on the oak roots.

If I were approaching one of those I'd rip all four sides then push with the loader/grapple to knock it over. Remaining roots usually just break when you lift the root ball to push or drag it away. One thing you will find is that those lateral trunks that hang out will interfere with getting the ripper close to the main root ball. Sometimes I just work around those and sometimes I use the ripper to just break them off separately. Choke cherry is easy to break, not so sure about your oak.

Good luck.
Click to expand...
On the multi-trunked oaks, I will probably cut most of them down as high as I can with the chainsaw and leave a few on the fall down side for leverage. Again, I'll start with a smaller tree and work up from there.
 
   / Added a ripper to my Woods BH90x: Trees beware
  • Thread Starter
#88  
nickel plate said:
On the multi-trunked oaks, I will probably cut most of them down as high as I can with the chainsaw and leave a few on the fall down side for leverage. Again, I'll start with a smaller tree and work up from there.
Click to expand...

Cut them low so they don't interfer with getting the ripper up close.
 
   / Added a ripper to my Woods BH90x: Trees beware #89  
I was thinking cut high for nudging over purposes.
 
   / Added a ripper to my Woods BH90x: Trees beware #90  
nickel plate said:
I also have a Woods BH90-X with the hydraulic thumb. Do you think the ripper tooth with the aid of the back plate would be able to cut a usable trench say 16" deep to lay an 1-1/2" irrigation line for a few hundred yards? Not looking for pretty and I don't mind a some hand work but if it can do that job, I can spend my alloted 12" bucket money and buy the ripper tooth instead as I also have about thirty 6"-12" oaks to remove for our new homesite. If you can, please give it a try. Thanks for the PMs and good job, Island.
Click to expand...

Moving tractors for digging trenches with a hoe gets old quick.
Almost worth renting a mini-ex if you have any great distance to go, though for what you describe a sub soiler might work, depending on your soil.
 
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