Advice on Grader/Scraper blade

   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade #31  
I think I'm going to get a tail wheel instead of the shoes. I need to level some new grounds and I think that would be the trick. Or are the skid shoes more preferred?

Depends, does your tractor have draft control? I think that it does, but not sure. Learn to use the draft control with your blade and there is no need for gauge wheels.

I don't think that the gauge wheels are available for the 40 series anyway besides being in the $1000 range. And actually even with gauge wheels, skid shoes are still beneficial IMO.

The problem with the LP cylinders is that they are tie rod units with small diameter rods, which equals a good chance of bent rods.

I can typically get both the angle and offset cylinders and hose kits shipped to my customers for $500 That is two 3 1/2" dia welded cylinders with a 1 3/4" dia rods, having a 16" stroke with hose kits and male couplers. Typically recommend the manual tilt, but all of my blade hydraulic sales have gone to customers with my top & tilt sets.

I'm just trying to get you a better product for less money. Or just buy everything directly from suppliers, I bet it's not any more $$$ than LP and you would have a superior product. ;)
 
   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Curious, why stick with manual tilt over offset?
 
   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade
  • Thread Starter
#33  
Depends, does your tractor have draft control? I think that it does, but not sure. Learn to use the draft control with your blade and there is no need for gauge wheels.

I don't think that the gauge wheels are available for the 40 series anyway besides being in the $1000 range. And actually even with gauge wheels, skid shoes are still beneficial IMO.

The problem with the LP cylinders is that they are tie rod units with small diameter rods, which equals a good chance of bent rods.

I can typically get both the angle and offset cylinders and hose kits shipped to my customers for $500 That is two 3 1/2" dia welded cylinders with a 1 3/4" dia rods, having a 16" stroke with hose kits and male couplers. Typically recommend the manual tilt, but all of my blade hydraulic sales have gone to customers with my top & tilt sets.

I'm just trying to get you a better product for less money. Or just buy everything directly from suppliers, I bet it's not any more $$$ than LP and you would have a superior product. ;)

What is the wait time on your cylinders?
 
   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade #34  
As mentioned, Landpride doesn’t offer a guagewheel kit for the 40 series, for whatever reason.

I did exactly what Brian is suggesting, bought a hydraulic cylinder from him to replace the manual offset. I priced the cylinder with Landpride (just went to Messicks.com and used their parts finder) and it was right about double the cost of the better quality cylinder I bought from Brian.
In addition, I now have a rusty manual offset “mechanism” that I can’t seem to find any real use for. If you could order it without those manual adjusters, you may be into a fully hydraulic blade for not much more money at all, than LP wants for the manual adjusters.

I added skid shoes to mine and it does make a noticeable difference. I may build a gauge wheel for it someday just because I have all the parts already, but I rarely use the thing for much more than snow removal anyways.
 
   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade #35  
Curious, why stick with manual tilt over offset?

If you do not have a top & tilt set for your tractor's 3pt hitch and are not going to get it, then by all means go with a hydraulic tilt. Should go with a complete hyd blade IMO. But as I have mentioned, if you have top & tilt, then there is no "good" reason to have hyd tilt on the blade. Having top & tilt works for about every implement that you connect to the 3pt hitch. Having hyd tilt on the rear blade works for the rear blade and nothing else.

What is the wait time on your cylinders?

1-2 weeks. I have everything setting here, just have to find the time to get it all together .


How many rear remotes do you have, 2? Pretty easy to bump that up to 5.

I added 2 diverters to my 75hp tractor. We can add 3 to your tractor. :cool:
 

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   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade
  • Thread Starter
#36  
If you do not have a top & tilt set for your tractor's 3pt hitch and are not going to get it, then by all means go with a hydraulic tilt. Should go with a complete hyd blade IMO. But as I have mentioned, if you have top & tilt, then there is no "good" reason to have hyd tilt on the blade. Having top & tilt works for about every implement that you connect to the 3pt hitch. Having hyd tilt on the rear blade works for the rear blade and nothing else.

Ok I see your point here. I don't have Hyd top & Tilt, I plan to add Hyd Top link but haven't. Dealer is checking now to see if I can order without the angle or offset adjusters.


1-2 weeks. I have everything setting here, just have to find the time to get it all together .


How many rear remotes do you have, 2? Pretty easy to bump that up to 5.

I added 2 diverters to my 75hp tractor. We can add 3 to your tractor. :cool:

I only have one, didn't think to have a second installed when I purchased. I talked with him today about adding a second and he said that would be about $1,000. But he mentioned I could hook the second cylinder up to my 3rd valve function if I didn't need to use that until I felt like spending the extra money.

What are the diverters? Ran tractors my whole life but know nothing about the hydraulic's of them.

Thanks
 
   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade #37  

$1000 to get a second set is not what I would do. :eek:

You can use the single that you have, add 3 diverters for $1375 and that would get you a total of 4 sets of rear remotes, all controlled with the single set that you currently have. That is what I have on my smaller tractor. I had one and is all that is available for that model and I needed 4 sets. My previous post shows my 75hp tractor that had 3 factory sets and I have added 2 diverters so that I have a total of 5 rear remotes on that tractor.

First pic shows 3 diverters and the second pic shows the gray control grip on the factory control lever. The control grip has 2 buttons and a trigger switch to control each diverter. All pretty simply really. :thumbsup:
 

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   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade
  • Thread Starter
#38  
$1000 to get a second set is not what I would do. :eek:

You can use the single that you have, add 3 diverters for $1375 and that would get you a total of 4 sets of rear remotes, all controlled with the single set that you currently have. That is what I have on my smaller tractor. I had one and is all that is available for that model and I needed 4 sets. My previous post shows my 75hp tractor that had 3 factory sets and I have added 2 diverters so that I have a total of 5 rear remotes on that tractor.

First pic shows 3 diverters and the second pic shows the gray control grip on the factory control lever. The control grip has 2 buttons and a trigger switch to control each diverter. All pretty simply really. :thumbsup:

Thank you very much for the info! I'm waiting to hear from my dealer on the hydraulic's question about the angle & offset then I'll know wether I'm stuck with LP's or to get with you on ordering yours. I have some more questions about the diverter deal as well I will message you about.
 
   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade
  • Thread Starter
#39  
Just got off the phone going over everything with my dealer. Deal has been made and ordered a Land Pride 4096, manual Tilt adjustment, no other adjustments so I need to talk to MtnViewRanch for Offset & Angle cylinders, also got skid shoes, and side plates. Should be here in a few weeks.
 
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   / Advice on Grader/Scraper blade #40  
EXCELLENT CHOICE BMAN!!!!!
 
 
 
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