Advice on new barn construction needed

[Depmandog]

While you are spending money, now would be the time to put in a lift so you can safely work under your toys! I know you are having some physical issues (as I am) and bending down twisting the neck / back to work on stuff is tough.

Having had both a metal building and currently a pole barn - I would opt for the metal building. At least 14' sidewalls - you won't be sorry for the added height, and the height adds little to the cost.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

thanks for thoughts and numbers. Left out...full insulation, hvac, 100 amp service, full wiring everywhere.
I have seen lots of ads for pole barns for half the numbers I quoted but they never include the "little" stuff, like the concrete pads in front of the doors, electric garage door openers, the list is lengthy.

I'm just starting this and haven't gotten pricing back at all. I used those numbers just for discussion.

what about comparative strength?

You'll need a bit more power unless you'll run a line from your compressor over. I think 125 is a kind of standard for some.

Coastal Wind load ratings and getting your permits will be parameters.

The main thing I would advise is, 30 x 60 is long and skinny. It will look like a commercial chicken coop IMO. Aesthetics will put you in a 40 x 60 and you won't ever complain about going bigger. If no room for a 40 x 60 now, buy the acre and re-plan to block the view. The 40 foot width will give you room to do a Y turn with your tractor and put implements on 1 wall.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

Oh, and termites and carpenter ants don't eat steel.......not yet around here anyway they don't.

 

[farmer2009]

For a building that size I think it would be hard to beat a pole barn. I have a friend that's over 25k into a red iron building 30x40 I think. Has a gravel floor to boot, no power no water. Just concrete feet and a rat wall. For 25k he could have had a pole barn and a concrete floor. His dream was to have a red iron building to last him 40+ years. It now makes him sick when he walks out the door.

His contractor came recommended by the manufacturer. The manufacturer had to replace the roof twice during construction. Contractor couldn't get it straight and it looked like 8-10 foot seas. (Best way to describe the waves without a picture. )The guys house sits on top of the hill a 100 yards away. So every time he walks out the door he looks down the ridge cap. Better than first install but still has a wave to it. Contractor and manufacturer both wiped hands of it.

Maybe you will have better luck. But I talked to a guy that builds both. (Everyone says he's high but I've worked with him before and he's good). He claims a red iron building is harder to get to look right than a pole barn. And you have to make sure you're perfectly square with a metal building or it won't come out right.

 

[EddieWalker]

I put a 12x12 roll up door in the gabled wall of my previous barn and when I built my current one, went down to a 10x12 roll up door. I never needed that extra height, so I opted for a lightly lower door for less money. My walls are 12 feet tall and I have to use a ladder to get to most things that I store up there. After ten years, I still have empty shelves because the things I use all the time, I keep down lower. I can't imagine what the advantage to another 4 feet of wall space would be good for? 12 feet is great!!!

Eddie

 

[daugen]

thanks guys. The door height Eddie was for perhaps someday a motorhome and they are up to 13 feet tall. That door would get used the least; the smaller door much more often. You open that big door and your hvac just groans...

One of the tools I would get sooner vs later in this building is the steel 2 ton gantry from Northern Tools with an electric lift attached. I grew up with a chain lift, pulling and pulling on those chains until the bush hog came up high enough to get under. Now I hope to push a button.
Northern Industrial Tools Adjustable Gantry Crane — 4,400-Lb. Capacity | Gantry Cranes| Northern Tool + Equipment

 

[bajabum]

I had a 24X48 Pole barn (12x12 pressure treated posts) done, with a loft and stairs on the last 12 foot segment, concrete floor, with blue foam board under the loft concrete floor.
12x12 roll-up door and a man door, and 4 windows.

$23 K

And It's full, I'm now planning 12 or 15 foot lean-to's...
Whatever size you figure on, make it bigger!

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I had a 24X48 Pole barn (12x12 pressure treated posts) done, with a loft and stairs on the last 12 foot segment, concrete floor, with blue foam board under the loft concrete floor.
12x12 roll-up door and a man door, and 4 windows.

$23 K

And It's full, I'm now planning 12 or 15 foot lean-to's...
Whatever size you figure on, make it bigger!

Curious, does it seem 'out of proportion' being a 2:1 ratio footprint?

 

[daugen]

Curious, does it seem 'out of proportion' being a 2:1 ratio footprint?

well, at 30x60, I guess I'm the same. Fact of the matter is I have space between established trees I'm trying to fit this new building in to the left of my barn and yesterday afternoon, put stakes down with the builder, moved them around, kept coming back to 30x60 as ideal for that spot. Going to leave enough room in between the buildings for the tractor to go through easily; other end goes past the far left utility pole by about five feet. The existing barn has a pole right at the same corner also, though on the proposed building that corner is hidden behind that big pine tree to the left, which needs some serious trimming before I start.

I did decide on 10 foot tall doors instead of 12 and on both ends, so I can drive straight through. I'm not buying any more motorhomes so I can't imagine why I would need the extra height.

putting those stakes down felt good.

 

[farmer2009]

Drew. Is there going to be enough clearance for the power line? Or is a reroute in the plans. Looks like it'll be tight if door is on tree end.