after reading about the top link failure I have a question. MntViewRanch, you here?

[MtnViewRanch]

Brian, while you are here kindly answering questions I have one. I notice that you now provide flow restricters with your kits. These did not come with my older kit but I don't seem to have any trouble adjusting either the top or side links with the precision I need. Why do you now include these ? And would they make my life even easier if I added them? I have factory Kubota remote valves on my L3010. Thanks for taking the time to help.

gg

Gordon, I feel that for most people, it makes the adjustments much easier to make. Some of it is the type of valve that a person has, others just have a knack for it. I believe that it would make adjustments easier for you. I know that I could hardly believe the difference (HUGE) in using the flow restrictor vs the needle valves that I use to use on my 3215. I had the needle valves adjusted as tight as I could have them and still have the hydraulics work. They were still a little fast for me, but managable. When I changed over to just having my single OEM valve operate 3 diverter valves for my now 4 rear remotes, WOW, soooooooooooooo much better. Hard to believe that they work so good. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

The last picture is how my 2 spool valve was on the tractor, worked fine, but I needed more remotes than the 3 that I had, so I decided to clean everything up a bit.

 

[jenkinsph]

Steve, I think you are confusing the 600psi spec on the DPOCV's unless I am misreading your post. The 600 psi number is the "cracking" pressure, in other words it needs to see at least that amount on the input side before it will allow fluid to flow to the out side or allow the cylinder to move. It can certainly hold more than 600 psi.

Kennyd, you are correct, the check valves will hold a high pressure against the cylinder. My issue is with the 600 psi needed to release the valves makes the cylinders much harder to adjust smoothly, or should I say hard to feather. I would agree that if you are using the check valves you would be better served to have flow restrictors too. This would restrict and slow the movement of the cylinders down to a manageable speed. But, so far I seem to be able to manage very well without any of this and can make slow or fast adjustments without the need to pause. I will think about this next time I am grading though.

 

[94BULLITT]

Brian you are correct, the check valves will hold a high pressure against the cylinder. My issue is with the 600 psi needed to release the valves makes the cylinders much harder to adjust smoothly, or should I say hard to feather. I would agree that if you are using the check valves you would be better served to have flow restrictors too. This would restrict and slow the movement of the cylinders down to a manageable speed. But, so far I seem to be able to manage very well without any of this and can make slow or fast adjustments without the need to pause. I will think about this next time I am grading though.

What kind of TNT do you have? I think my Kubota TNT has restrictors built into the cylinders because the hole in the cylinder goes down to maybe 5/16'' or 1/4.''

 

[jenkinsph]

Looks good Brian, I might do something similar on my 4520 with the third hydraulics on the rear. If I go with a new rearblade I would need to have another set or two of outlets and that is a good cheap way to get there. Currently have three on the rear but five would handle everything I can think of.

 

[jenkinsph]

What kind of TNT do you have? I think my Kubota TNT has restrictors built into the cylinders because the hole in the cylinder goes down to maybe 5/16'' or 1/4.''

I have the Deere factory tnt set.

 

[94BULLITT]

Gordon, I feel that for most people, it makes the adjustments much easier to make. Some of it is the type of valve that a person has, others just have a knack for it. I believe that it would make adjustments easier for you. I know that I could hardly believe the difference (HUGE) in using the flow restrictor vs the needle valves that I use to use on my 3215. I had the needle valves adjusted as tight as I could have them and still have the hydraulics work. They were still a little fast for me, but managable. When I changed over to just having my single OEM valve operate 3 diverter valves for my now 4 rear remotes, WOW, soooooooooooooo much better. Hard to believe that they work so good. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

The last picture is how my 2 spool valve was on the tractor, worked fine, but I needed more remotes than the 3 that I had, so I decided to clean everything up a bit.

Looks good. What kind of divertor valves are those?

I have the Deere factory tnt set.

I'll take a picture of mine sometime so you guys can see it.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Thanks Brian. Very nice "clean-up" job.

 

[rd_macgregor]

I don't want to divert the discussion too much, but wondered whether anyone with a hydraulic top link had to change the top link hanger. My top link has a hanger hook welded to it; the hook is the handle for adjusting the link length. Obviously in my case, I'd have to arrange a different way to hang the top link if (when!) I switch to a hydraulic system. How have others done this?
BOB

 

[kennyd]

I don't want to divert the discussion too much, but wondered whether anyone with a hydraulic top link had to change the top link hanger. My top link has a hanger hook welded to it; the hook is the handle for adjusting the link length. Obviously in my case, I'd have to arrange a different way to hang the top link if (when!) I switch to a hydraulic system. How have others done this?
BOB

I use a iMatch QH so I never need to hang my HTL.

 

[jgayman]

My top link has a hanger hook welded to it; the hook is the handle for adjusting the link length. Obviously in my case, I'd have to arrange a different way to hang the top link if (when!) I switch to a hydraulic system. How have others done this?
BOB

Yep! Bungie cord!