another homemade log splitter question about hydraulics

   / another homemade log splitter question about hydraulics #11  
when I engage the valve, the cylinder moves.

And it will whether you have the right valve or not. The problem comes when you are not moving the cylinder.

Does the tractor quit shaking and smooth out while the cylinder is in motion?
 
   / another homemade log splitter question about hydraulics #12  
Did you parallel that valve with the other valves, or just plug it in to the remotes?
 

Attachments

  • CC circuit.gif
    CC circuit.gif
    6.6 KB · Views: 454
   / another homemade log splitter question about hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#13  
youll have to forgive my ignorance, but I am not sure what paralleling valves entails.

I really appreciate your being patient with me
 
   / another homemade log splitter question about hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#14  
here are a couple of pics of what i did, i dont know if this will help, but im sure it cant hurt
IMG_1040.jpgIMG_1042.jpgIMG_1043.jpg
I determined that the upper right quick connect supplies the pressure when the lever on the tractor is in the forward position, so I ran that line to the "IN" port labeled on the valve, then ran the other line from the "OUT" port on the valve to the upper left quick connect on the tractor.
 
   / another homemade log splitter question about hydraulics #15  
DBelser,
It looks like there is a relief valve in the splitter valve. If this is set lower than the tractor operating pressure it will open. Some relief valves will chatter.
Does the pressure hose to splitter pulse and shake?

Not sure what the pressure is for your tractor but you may need to invest in gauge to see what you pressure is doing during different functions.
 
   / another homemade log splitter question about hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#16  
yes, after the lever is tied off, usually a couple seconds later, both hoses start to shake, its hard to tell exactly where the shaking is originating from because it is pretty violent. the pressure on the tractor should be around 2300-2500 psi. do you suggest any certain type of pressure gauge that I could use, preferably something cheap and easy.
 
   / another homemade log splitter question about hydraulics #17  
I prefer a liquid filled gauge since it helps dampen the pulsations. Any good hydraulic shop should have them.

I can't tell from the picture but is the relief valve on splitter adjustable using a wrench? Some have an external adjustment that takes a screw driver or hex (Allen) wrench. If this style you could turn the adjustment a known amount and see if the problem stops.

The other style require shims.

Another thought on the chattering is the relief in the splitter opens sending oil out the tank line. The back pressure in the tank line from the Quick Disconnect, valve, valve etc.causes the relief to close due the back pressure being additive to the relief setting. The relief valve closes, flow stops, relief reopens, etc.. This scenario would cause severe chattering in both hoses and would also possible effect the steering since these pulsations would be seen through the entire system.

Roy
 
   / another homemade log splitter question about hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#18  
oldnslo
before we go any further here, I think I figured out that the new valve is an open center valve, because the out port will shoot fluid out when the *tractor* lever is engaged while the splitter* lever is in neutral. I just called the place where I bought the valve and talked to the tech, and he said that the valve is open center and that is what I need since I am running the lines from the remote on the tractor.
 
   / another homemade log splitter question about hydraulics
  • Thread Starter
#19  
J_J
I just plugged it into the remotes, does that mean it will be ok to use an open center valve? because i just realized thats what I have.
 
   / another homemade log splitter question about hydraulics #20  
In my opinion, I think most closed center valves are used for short burst of use, such as a loader valve, or 3pt, T-N-T, etc and not constant flow.

I just talked to the Prince engineers, and they say it is not a good idea to mix valves, as that tractor pump is probably a variable displacement pump and the volume and pressure will be changing a lot.

Excerpt:

Closed
center systems are normally associated with
variable displacement pumps or any other
system where the pump flow is unloaded
when system pressure is reached.
Note: If the closed center plug is installed in
a valve that has a relief it may be necessary to install the no relief plug or adjust the relief pressure above the compensator setting.

The relief on the valve might be telling the tractor pump to unload at a certain pressure

Your best bet is to get a closed center log splitter valve and connect the valve in paralleled. The picture above is a paralleled valve setup

By parallel valve, I mean that there is a feed line that connects to all the closed center valves IN ports. Any one valve will cause the pump to start pumping, until the demand is met.

Any valve that opens, calls for the pump to provide volume and pressure according to the load. This will cause the hyd pump to ramp up and ramp back down as you flip the valve lever to neutral.

You might cheat the system for a while, but hyd parts are not cheap.

Open center hyd valves are in series where the PB from the first valve feeds the IN port of the next valve, and you add valves one after another, and a constant of fluid is flowing all the time, depending on the engine rpm..

I would recommend gong to the remote valve and putting a tee in the IN port and use that to feed the closed center valve.

The correct way to use the closed center valve is to go from the tee on the remote to the IN port of the closed center valve, and run the OUT port of the CC valve to the tank hose or tank directly.

I would take that open center valve back and get your money back and order the valve I posted, and hook it up correctly.
 
Last edited:
 
Top