another homemade log splitter question about hydraulics

[oldnslo]

oldnslo
before we go any further here, I think I figured out that the new valve is an open center valve, because the out port will shoot fluid out when the *tractor* lever is engaged while the splitter* lever is in neutral. I just called the place where I bought the valve and talked to the tech, and he said that the valve is open center and that is what I need since I am running the lines from the remote on the tractor.

JUST an FYI,
A closed center valve would also shoot oil the tank port if the relief valve is set lower than the tractor operating pressure.

Open center should not cause the system to chatter. This would be the same as running a hydraulic motor.

Does the chatter stop if the splitter cylinder is moving??

You can use the QD's on tractor to run your splitter. I believe lot's of people have done this with 3PH type splitters.

If possible get a valve without a relief since your tractor already has one.

Roy

 

[dbelser]

oldnslo
No, the chatter does not stop if the cylinder is moving. And I have been using the quick disconnects all along.

J_J
Alright, after reading and researching the stuff you said in your last post, I think I understand what your saying about the "T" connector. If I am understanding that correctly it sounds like I would basically be adding a valve to the existing 2 valves already there, except that the new valve would just be separate instead of stacked on top of the other valves? I also assume that with this method I would not have to tie down one of the levers on the tractor?

If this is all correct and i decide to go with it, what all would I need besides a "T" and the new closed center valve? Here is a picture of how I am assuming it would work:
1. i would put the "T" where the RED arrow is (I believe that is the line) and take the new hose connected to that "T" to the IN port on the log splitter valve.
2. Bring the hose I connect to the OUT port on the SPLITTER valve back to the tank or tank hose (YELLOW arrow)?
-for step 2, how do I connect to the tank line?

 

[dbelser]

just in case you cant see those other pics

 

[J_J]

oldnslo
No, the chatter does not stop if the cylinder is moving. And I have been using the quick disconnects all along.

J_J
Alright, after reading and researching the stuff you said in your last post, I think I understand what your saying about the "T" connector. If I am understanding that correctly it sounds like I would basically be adding a valve to the existing 2 valves already there, except that the new valve would just be separate instead of stacked on top of the other valves? I also assume that with this method I would not have to tie down one of the levers on the tractor?

If this is all correct and i decide to go with it, what all would I need besides a "T" and the new closed center valve? Here is a picture of how I am assuming it would work:
1. i would put the "T" where the RED arrow is (I believe that is the line) and take the new hose connected to that "T" to the IN port on the log splitter valve.
2. Bring the hose I connect to the OUT port on the SPLITTER valve back to the tank or tank hose (YELLOW arrow)?
-for step 2, how do I connect to the tank line?
View attachment 291701

If the red line is pointing to the IN or pressure hose, then that is where the tee would go.

I would also add a QD to the output to the splitter. This will put all the valves on the tractor using a common line which has pressure at all times.

If your new log splitter valve has a relief, You can get a no relief valve or turn the relief setting to max, which should be above the un-loader setting at the pump.

Do you happen to know if the pump is a variable displacement pump or a constant displacement pump?

The return or OUT hose should go to directly to tank or a hose going to tank with no restrictions.

There should be a fitting or hose going to tank or sump.

There are different type of pump setup for closed center hyd system.

Some use accumulators, and others use variable displacement pumps, etc.

 

[dbelser]

If the red line is pointing to the IN or pressure hose, then that is where the tee would go.

I would also add a QD to the output to the splitter. This will put all the valves on the tractor using a common line which has pressure at all times.

If your new log splitter valve has a relief, You can get a no relief valve or turn the relief setting to max, which should be above the un-loader setting at the pump.

Do you happen to know if the pump is a variable displacement pump or a constant displacement pump?

The return or OUT hose should go to directly to tank or a hose going to tank with no restrictions.

There should be a fitting or hose going to tank or sump.

There are different type of pump setup for closed center hyd system.

Some use accumulators, and others use variable displacement pumps, etc.

ok, you kinda lost me there, are you saying I can still use the open center log splitter valve I have? or that when I buy my new valve I will need a relief valve?

I believe my pump is a constant displacement but not sure, ill check in the mornin on that.

as for the OUT hose, There is a fitting and hose on the bottom part of the stack of valves (yellow arrow in pic above) that is the OUT for the remote valves on the tractor. Now how would I tap the splitter OUT intto that? and wouldnt there need to be a QD for that as well?

 

[J_J]

Use the closed center valve.

All valves return/OUT ports are common and go to sump, as in the pic I posted.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...homemade-log-splitter-question-cc-circuit.gif

I believe there is a relief on that closed center log splitter valve, and if so, turn it down so it never operates. or set it above the pump relief setting.

 

[dbelser]

gotcha, I think i am getting it now.

just so we are clear though, doing it this way will basically eliminate the need to tie down the remote lever on the tractor correct?

 

[dbelser]

correction. the tractor has a variable pump

 

[J_J]

gotcha, I think i am getting it now.

just so we are clear though, doing it this way will basically eliminate the need to tie down the remote lever on the tractor correct?

That is correct. The pump is not doing any work until you move the lever on the log splitter valve, the pump ramps up to provide fluid, and when the lever goes back to neutral, the pump ramps down.

When you unplug the log splitter, the QD lock in the fluid for the other valves which are in parrallel.

 

[dbelser]

last question (i hope) how exactly can I add another return line to the sump inlet? I would not imagine I could put a "T" there as well bc wouldn't that supply back pressure on that line?
Here is a pic of the sump inlet on the tractor (the soft line leading to the casing under the seat with two clamps on it)