Anyone here really know about Stihl chainsaws (larger saws) ???

[turnkey4099]

"Been using chainsaws all of my life and never did any kind of "muffler mod". Occasionally a muffler would loosen or fall off and I would put it back on. When you have to hear a screaming saw hour after hour, day after day you tend not to do anything to make them any louder. At least I didn't, nor do I remember any professional loggers doing so. My advice would be to get a saw of the right size and learn to sharpen it well and maintain the bar. As long as the saw is running well, sharpening the chain properly and keeping the rakers at the proper height is, in my opinion, the most important consideration in saw performance. The difference between avarage chainsaw men and good ones is in bar/chain maintenance skills. My opinion. "


Right on. Sorta goes with my opinion of people who think you have to put a wrench or screwdrivr to a fuel cap - IMO that is abuse of equipment. I've been running them cutting 10+ cord/yr since 1976 and ran a couple back in the 50s. I Have never had a fuel/oil cap come loose after tightening by hand. I got a fine running Jonsered 625 ex-logger saw out of Canada basket case. Put it together. The fuel cap was boogered up by hacksawing a scrench slot.

Harry K

Harry K

 

[MissouriSprayer]

I have a 460 with a 25 inch bar. It is a mean saw. Its also a lot different when you step up to big saw/pro level, bigger chains and a lot more power and leverage. The leverage from that power if you hit the tip will scare the peedoodle out of you. You need to think. A lot. And make sure safety is always in mind. If you can't sharpen, learn to. Practice with it on smaller stuff...8 to 12 inch trees. If you have done plunge cuts with a smaller saw, get ready for some wild saw tip action with the big saw.

All said, I love it for real saw work on hardwoods like hickory, oak, and hedge. I hand file my saws and can get them razor sharp and that really pays with the big saw. I run 2 290s and a 210 in addition to the 460

 

[Verticaltrx]

I have a 460 with a 25 inch bar. It is a mean saw. Its also a lot different when you step up to big saw/pro level, bigger chains and a lot more power and leverage. The leverage from that power if you hit the tip will scare the peedoodle out of you. You need to think. A lot. And make sure safety is always in mind. If you can't sharpen, learn to. Practice with it on smaller stuff...8 to 12 inch trees. If you have done plunge cuts with a smaller saw, get ready for some wild saw tip action with the big saw.

All said, I love it for real saw work on hardwoods like hickory, oak, and hedge. I hand file my saws and can get them razor sharp and that really pays with the big saw. I run 2 290s and a 210 in addition to the 460

Not sure which bar you are running, but when you get into the bigger stuff you can get the wide nose bars, which are what I like. They have a bigger sprocket than the reduced kick-back bars (which Stihl puts on 90% of the saws) and they are great for plunge cutting. Combine the wide nose and yellow label chain and it will give some mean kick-back if you aren't careful.

The 441 in the pic I posted earlier has a wide nose bar, as does an old 041 I have which uses an old Duromatic hard-nose bar (for nostalgia, lol).

 

[Verticaltrx]

I have a 460 with a 25 inch bar. It is a mean saw. Its also a lot different when you step up to big saw/pro level, bigger chains and a lot more power and leverage. The leverage from that power if you hit the tip will scare the peedoodle out of you. You need to think. A lot. And make sure safety is always in mind. If you can't sharpen, learn to. Practice with it on smaller stuff...8 to 12 inch trees. If you have done plunge cuts with a smaller saw, get ready for some wild saw tip action with the big saw.

All said, I love it for real saw work on hardwoods like hickory, oak, and hedge. I hand file my saws and can get them razor sharp and that really pays with the big saw. I run 2 290s and a 210 in addition to the 460

Not sure which bar you are running, but when you get into the bigger stuff you can get the wide nose bars, which are what I like. They have a bigger sprocket than the reduced kick-back bars (which Stihl puts on 90% of the saws) and they are great for plunge cutting. Combine the wide nose and yellow label chain and it will give some mean kick-back if you aren't careful.

The 441 in the pic I posted earlier has a wide nose bar, as does an old 041 I have which uses an old Duromatic hard-nose bar (for nostalgia, lol).

 

[tessiers]

Saws run on a pendulum. We are farmers, cut more wood than most people but no means pro's.
at 15 we learn to use an old 30cc saw laying around the shed
at 18 we need a new 50cc saw
at 20 we need the 60cc saw
at 25 we need a 70cc saw
by 30 we learn to mod it and it really rips. Chips fly and so does the testosterone
at 40 that 60cc saw is a lot lighter and more comfortable. Wood still gets cut and we still stand up straight in the evening.
at 50 back to the 50cc saw and let the young bucks do the heavy cutting
at 60 back to the 30cc saw to cut off a limb or 2 while sitting on the tractor pulling the winch handle.
my years might be off a little but its close

 

[turnkey4099]

Saws run on a pendulum. We are farmers, cut more wood than most people but no means pro's.
at 15 we learn to use an old 30cc saw laying around the shed
at 18 we need a new 50cc saw
at 20 we need the 60cc saw
at 25 we need a 70cc saw
by 30 we learn to mod it and it really rips. Chips fly and so does the testosterone
at 40 that 60cc saw is a lot lighter and more comfortable. Wood still gets cut and we still stand up straight in the evening.
at 50 back to the 50cc saw and let the young bucks do the heavy cutting
at 60 back to the 30cc saw to cut off a limb or 2 while sitting on the tractor pulling the winch handle.
my years might be off a little but its close

Pretty accurate! I'll be 77 next month and my peferred 'big' saw is a 361 because it is a few ounces lighter than my next size down (310).

Got the cabin fever bad and eager to get back to harvesting some trees.


Harry K

 

[daugen]

As for "blipping" I never did understand why people do it.

could it be they also own motorcycles, you know the ones who feel the need to blip about ten times every red light...

 

[JimRB]

I have seen people do silly blips when letting out the clutch in cars and trucks. I just ease on the throttle while easing out the clutch.

On topic I like my little Stihl MS 210 but I get annoyed on the rare occasion that I am cutting something big and it does not have enough power. But then I realize I almost never cut big stuff so it does not matter. I do smile at the chips flying after I hand file the chain.

 

[JimRB]

I have seen people do silly blips when letting out the clutch in cars and trucks. I just ease on the throttle while easing out the clutch.

On topic I like my little Stihl MS 210 but I get annoyed on the rare occasion that I am cutting something big and it does not have enough power. But then I realize I almost never cut big stuff so it does not matter. I do smile at the chips flying after I hand file the chain.

 

[turnkey4099]

As for "blipping" I never did understand why people do it.

could it be they also own motorcycles, you know the ones who feel the need to blip about ten times every red light...

Especially the ones with loud pipes. They probably want to be assured that that loud pipe hasn't dropped off.

Harry K