Anyone here really know about Stihl chainsaws (larger saws) ???

[turnkey4099]

As for "blipping" I never did understand why people do it.

could it be they also own motorcycles, you know the ones who feel the need to blip about ten times every red light...

Especially the ones with loud pipes. They probably want to be assured that that loud pipe hasn't dropped off.

Harry K

 

[daugen]

Especially the ones with loud pipes. They probably want to be assured that that loud pipe hasn't dropped off.

Harry K

and since they are half deaf, they need to a lot it seems.
Are these big saws super loud, assuming you haven't modded the exhaust?
or just heavy and powerful?

I love my Echo600, which isn't in the league being talked about, but is a real step up from my Echo 450
On a large log, it will really pull forward as it rips through, and I'm more careful about it coming back at me than I am
with the smaller saws. And the 24 bar sure means less leaning over at times.
But can I use it all day, no, no reason, back to the lighter saw. I do this for fun, not to earn a living or for survival.
So when it stops being fun, I go home, or get another tool.

I had a baby Stihl, a 210, and from new, it would never start. The choke lever kept falling off its pivot point and would last one use
after I got it back from the shop three times. Nice little saw, but so infuriating I gave it to a friend. He took the entire thing apart, modded the
choke lever, bent some wire in there I guess and now it works. Most annoying that not one of three authorized Stihl dealers could ever do the same thing...
So unfortunately my experience with Stihl was dampened by one poorly designed or built model.
But around here, Stihl is king for the pros.

 

[Soggy Bottom Outdoors]

Well I've got this MS391 20" bar. I had considered a muffler mod to get a little more performance but getting different opinions here. Also considered a 24-25" bar along with muff mod but Stihl rep says the bar is to big. So using what little common sense I have I decided to learn to sharpen a saw better. (Smaller sharp saw cuts faster than a big dull one)Trouble is I'm strongly right handed and I wind up getting the cut off. Not much usually, but if I start straight I like to end straight. I usually "touch up" the chain after every tank of fuel and wait till I back to the shop and put it in a vise to really sharpen it. Any tricks to sharpen in the field that will insure the same sharpness on both sides? I cut all hardwood, oak, hickory, locust, cherry. Would a different style chain help? I've heard guys talk about "skip" chains, would that help? Lots of youtube videos out there but I'd like your thoughts.

 

[turnkey4099]

Well I've got this MS391 20" bar. I had considered a muffler mod to get a little more performance but getting different opinions here. Also considered a 24-25" bar along with muff mod but Stihl rep says the bar is to big. So using what little common sense I have I decided to learn to sharpen a saw better. (Smaller sharp saw cuts faster than a big dull one)Trouble is I'm strongly right handed and I wind up getting the cut off. Not much usually, but if I start straight I like to end straight. I usually "touch up" the chain after every tank of fuel and wait till I back to the shop and put it in a vise to really sharpen it. Any tricks to sharpen in the field that will insure the same sharpness on both sides? I cut all hardwood, oak, hickory, locust, cherry. Would a different style chain help? I've heard guys talk about "skip" chains, would that help? Lots of youtube videos out there but I'd like your thoughts.

A 391 will pull a 25" bar easily - dealer is full of it, in fact out here in E Washington the 361 comes with a 24.

Skip tooth has 1/3 less teeth but will cut just about the same speed as a normal chain. A "full skip" has half the teeth.

I use one of those clamp on guides that sets all the angles - takes me about 10 minutes to sharpen a 20" loop (5 strokes/tooth). Best used in a vise but in the field there are 'stump vises' with a pointy spike to drive into a stump.

If your rigthhandedness is pulling the saw off line, you are "riding" the saw - shouldn't be necessary with a sharp chain. Most likely you aren't getting both sides sharpened the same.

Harry K

 

[xyz123]

JMO I would stick to a 20" for cutting hardwoods like we do in OH and KY on a 391. The guys in the PNW get away with running the longer bar set ups for cutting softwoods. Heck I've talked to guys out there running 24" on 290's.

I did muffler mod a 390 for 24"/25" and it did fine, but I wouldnt want to run it all day in cuts that size.



MS 391 Specifications
DISPLACEMENT 64.1 cc (3.9 cu. in.)
ENGINE POWER 3.3 kW (4.4 bhp)
POWERHEAD WEIGHT 6.4 kg (14.1 lbs.)
GUIDE BAR LENGTHS* (Recommended ranges) 40 to 50 cm (16" to 20")
FUEL CAPACITY 600 cc (20.3 oz.)
CHAIN OIL CAPACITY 350 cc (11.8 oz.)
OILOMATICｮ CHAIN 3/8" RS3

 

[rustyshakelford]

A 391 will pull a 25" bar easily - dealer is full of it, in fact out here in E Washington the 361 comes with a 24.

Skip tooth has 1/3 less teeth but will cut just about the same speed as a normal chain. A "full skip" has half the teeth.

I use one of those clamp on guides that sets all the angles - takes me about 10 minutes to sharpen a 20" loop (5 strokes/tooth). Best used in a vise but in the field there are 'stump vises' with a pointy spike to drive into a stump.

If your rigthhandedness is pulling the saw off line, you are "riding" the saw - shouldn't be necessary with a sharp chain. Most likely you aren't getting both sides sharpened the same.

Harry K

A 390/391 is the biggest of the mid-grade saws. 25" bar would be to big. I had a 25" on my 361 and it was hard on the saw on the big stuff. 660 on the other hand runs it much better. A 20" bar is just about perfect for the 361/362

Brett

 

[catskinner]

I'm a "blipper" been doing it long as I can remember. I think it started with my first two stroke dirt bike, always ran rich bogging a lot. I have a new ms362 and ms660, they run great, pretty fuel efficient, very low vibrations, joy to use. You go through your cuts quicker, as long as sharpen them.

 

[Soggy Bottom Outdoors]

Turnkey, I don't think I'm riding the saw, I think I'm getting one side of the chain sharper than the other and it will cut to the right nearly every time. I'll take a lot at the clamp on guide. I usually set the saw in front of me pointed to the right or left to sharpen. I have a neighbor who leans over the saw from the back to sharpen, I couldn't get that to work at all. Reps tell me of a method were you kind of like "hug" the saw to it?

 

[turnkey4099]

A 390/391 is the biggest of the mid-grade saws. 25" bar would be to big. I had a 25" on my 361 and it was hard on the saw on the big stuff. 660 on the other hand runs it much better. A 20" bar is just about perfect for the 361/362

Brett

I mistyped, I meant the 361. I uise a 25" regularly cutting Black Locust since the 361 first came out and have no problems at all. Skip tooth chain. Normal dress for it though is 20". I would move up to a bigger saw if I needed teh 25" every day though. 660 is way bigger than needed for a 25" bar in any timber.

Harry K

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

A 390/391 is the biggest of the mid-grade saws. 25" bar would be to big. I had a 25" on my 361 and it was hard on the saw on the big stuff. 660 on the other hand runs it much better. A 20" bar is just about perfect for the 361/362

Brett

I mistyped, I meant the 361. I uise a 25" regularly cutting Black Locust since the 361 first came out and have no problems at all. Skip tooth chain. Normal dress for it though is 20". I would move up to a bigger saw if I needed teh 25" every day though. 660 is way bigger than needed for a 25" bar in any timber.

Harry K

Harry K