Anyone see an issue with this trailer mod?

   / Anyone see an issue with this trailer mod? #1  

The Haymaker

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
1,274
Location
Benton, Maine
Tractor
2008 T2220
Not my trailer, one of the neighbors got a "good deal" on it and then figured he wanted it to be 18' instead of 16. I'm charging him 20 bucks and hour, giving a ceiling of 12 hours unless he wants more work done. He paid for materials and I bartered him out of a 2'x8' sheet of 1/4" in exchange for consumables.

Frame rails are 3/16" wall 2"x5" tubing. Plenty heavy for a set of unrated axles, so, if anything, I think I overkilled with the gussets.

The extension is done. Now I need to get creative and "halve" the angle of the 32" drop deck at the rear. Way to steep now, giving only 6" of clearance.

This job gave me an excuse to get around to making an adapter plug to easily run plasma off 220 without cutting off original wall plug, which would sacrifice portability. WOW! What a difference! Now I need a MIG!
 

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   / Anyone see an issue with this trailer mod? #2  
Looks ok to me, but I'm not a ME. I would at least tell the owner to occasionally inspect the "rework" for any cracks or signs of stress.

However, I don't I understand why you now have to change the angle of the dovetail?? You didn't alter it by lengthening the front of the trailer by 2ft, so why does it have to change now? I understand that by adding two feet on the front, more weight can be carried on the trailer (although you haven't "beefed up" the suspension any) which probably would drop the tongue down some. That would only raise the rear of the trailer, so I'm still confused why?
 
   / Anyone see an issue with this trailer mod?
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Looks ok to me, but I'm not a ME. I would at least tell the owner to occasionally inspect the "rework" for any cracks or signs of stress.

However, I don't I understand why you now have to change the angle of the dovetail?? You didn't alter it by lengthening the front of the trailer by 2ft, so why does it have to change now? I understand that by adding two feet on the front, more weight can be carried on the trailer (although you haven't "beefed up" the suspension any) which probably would drop the tongue down some. That would only raise the rear of the trailer, so I'm still confused why?

Yeah, exactly what I told him. I'm pretty sure between deep welds and gusset over tops, it's overkill. Plus the hemlock decking will also add strength.

Reason for dovetail change is that whoever built the trailer made it too low. It's 6" or less off the ground when the deck is level, to low for anything other than flat ground. He needs to be able to use it on uneven ground. I suggested flipping the axles, but he didn't want to raise deck height.

My thought is to slice the main beam with the plasma cutter, starting from the bottom of the angle and working to the top, leaving the top face of the tube. I'll then jack the tail to the level he wants and just gusset over the gaps created.
 
   / Anyone see an issue with this trailer mod? #4  
My thought is to slice the main beam with the plasma cutter, starting from the bottom of the angle and working to the top, leaving the top face of the tube. I'll then jack the tail to the level he wants and just gusset over the gaps created.

Do it the other way. Slice from the top down leaving the bottom intact. Then your remaining pieces butt up against each other rather than leaving a gap. Then fishplate like you've done with the rest.
 
   / Anyone see an issue with this trailer mod? #5  
You could always add a couple of 'X' braces made of 1.5"x1/8"-3/16" square tube tieing your fishplates together. Put one on top of the other so you don't have to do any extra miter cuts.
 

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   / Anyone see an issue with this trailer mod?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Do it the other way. Slice from the top down leaving the bottom intact. Then your remaining pieces butt up against each other rather than leaving a gap. Then fishplate like you've done with the rest.

Thought about it, but the way the trailer is made makes this very thought, can't get at the tops of the beams without removing a lot of metal.
 
   / Anyone see an issue with this trailer mod?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
You could always add a couple of 'X' braces made of 1.5"x1/8"-3/16" square tube tieing your fishplates together. Put one on top of the other so you don't have to do any extra miter cuts.

I think the hemlock decking will stop any yaw?

Thanks for the help guys!

E
 
   / Anyone see an issue with this trailer mod? #8  
I have to say, those are some nice welds. Did I read that right, you did not use a Mig? Did you use a buzz box? Because if you did, those are very nice welds.
 
   / Anyone see an issue with this trailer mod? #9  
Thought about it, but the way the trailer is made makes this very thought, can't get at the tops of the beams without removing a lot of metal.

Do you have a pic of the dovetail? I'd like to see what you're talking about.
 
   / Anyone see an issue with this trailer mod?
  • Thread Starter
#10  
I have to say, those are some nice welds. Did I read that right, you did not use a Mig? Did you use a buzz box? Because if you did, those are very nice welds.

Wow, you're gonna give me a swelled head. Yes, done with a Miller Thunderbolt I picked up used 5 years ago for 200 bucks. Self taught by tinkering, with this and the plow I made back in the winter being the largest projects. 6011 rod I picked out of a customers scrap heap and have been storing it next to the wood stove.

Welds on the head end of the extension were done by manipulating the whole unit with the tractor forks so I was always welding horizontal. Welds towards the tail were done in place. My first successful attempt at welding vertical and upside-down.

Thanks again!

E
 
 
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