Anyone see an issue with this trailer mod?

[The Haymaker]

Do you have a pic of the dovetail? I'd like to see what you're talking about.

I'll get you some pics on friday. The trailer is a home made job and whoever built it was created and paid attention to detail, but I think they over-engineered in some ways. Apparently they used it to haul a Moffet or some sort of off-road forklift.

The issue is he used two pieces of Channel stood on end at the junction of the dovetail and deck. There is approximately a 1" gap at the top between the two and they meet at the bottom, right at the apex of the two angles. Therefore, to do it the "right" (I do see what you are saying) way I'd have to do a LOT of cutting. Much of it would be in tight quarters.

If I cut from the bottom and lift the tail, then bridge the created gap, the only thing other than the 4 main beams is the side rails, which are a quick fix. I'm no where near as worried about strength here because the leverage on the 32" tail is not as great as the force seen on the front extension I did.

If it was my trailer, I'd just flip the axles but I don't know what effect it would have on the brake mechanisms and the owner doesn't want to chance it.

E

 

[Skyco]

If it was my trailer, I'd just flip the axles but I don't know what effect it would have on the brake mechanisms and the owner doesn't want to chance it.

E

"Flipping" axles is a misnomer, hopefully no one ever actually does it
If actually "flipped" then the axle camber is all wrong* and the brakes are screwed up
Now moving the axles to the other side of the springs works well, Dexter even sells a kit to do it or new spring seats can be welded on.

*Most heavier axles have a bend in the tube to camber the wheels slightly so axle flex gets them about straight when loaded.

 

[kenmac]

Similar to what I did when I added 3 ft to my trailer to make it 20'. I moved my axles to the front about 1 1/2' to off set some of the additional tongue weight

 

[The Haymaker]

Well, it's done except for the tailgate, but he ran out of money. Kinda good because I just found out I'm shipping out Sunday to Woodbridge NJ for a full 5 days of fun playing truck driver down there. Yay... No... Really.... yay.....

Anyway, I did what I originally planned to get rid of the steep dovetail angle. I sliced the beams from the bottom up, leaving the top intact. I then used a Load lock used in our truck trailers from the trailer to a heavy beam in my ceiling, then placed a jack under the tail and lifted. After some pretty noise (love the sound of rending metal!) I increased the ground clearance from 8 to 13 inches. MUCH better.

This trailer is going to ride HARD. I used my forks as "skids" and put the T2220 on it. The tractor weighs somewhere around 3500lbs and this trailer did not sag in the least. The owner was worried squat would decrease the height to much..... NOT!

Not happy with the welds. Off day and it was a pain getting the correct angles with all the structure in the way. I need a MIG!

 

[Diamondpilot]

Looks good to me. Just needs some paint and a deck and he will be all set.

If it were mine I would have it Rhino Lined after I cleaned up the rust and put it in a primer. Apply the wood deck after and it will last a lifetime.

Chris

 

[The Haymaker]

Looks good to me. Just needs some paint and a deck and he will be all set.

If it were mine I would have it Rhino Lined after I cleaned up the rust and put it in a primer. Apply the wood deck after and it will last a lifetime.

Chris

That's all his baby. I'm just the fab-man. He claims he intends on sand blasting it and coating.

I do need to punch some holes in the bottom of the frame. The builder did not. I have to say when you are laying under a trailer and punch a hole into a frame full of water with the plasma cutter, it is an invigorating experience!

 

[Diamondpilot]

I see trapped water in boat trailer frames all the time. Its much better as you said to punch the holes in it and let it drain so it does not rust though from the inside out.

Chris

 

[FlaDon]

Looks good Haymaker.:thumbsup:

 

[Renze]

As a former trailer engineer in a previous job, i'd say you do a fine job on the extension. you're certainly not weakening it, so doing anything more than this, would be overkill.
The most stressed section in this frame is either somewhere above the axles, or right in front of where the deck ends and the towbar triangle starts.
About the rear, i assume the plates you weld over the gap are as thick as the wall thickness you're welding them on to, so you're not creating a weaker section in the frame ?

Those trailer frames get quite some abuse from being rolled on from the rear, which leads to forced fracture, not fatigue fracture. (depending on rear overhang offcourse)

I do need to punch some holes in the bottom of the frame. The builder did not.

I like to keep box section frames as closed as possible, and put a little oil in it. The oil vapours will prevent rust, when taking apart old tractors that have been sitting for some years, you dont see as much rust as you'd expect, above the oil level in the gearbox, because of the vapours.

 

[The Haymaker]

As a former trailer engineer in a previous job, i'd say you do a fine job on the extension. you're certainly not weakening it, so doing anything more than this, would be overkill.
The most stressed section in this frame is either somewhere above the axles, or right in front of where the deck ends and the towbar triangle starts.
About the rear, i assume the plates you weld over the gap are as thick as the wall thickness you're welding them on to, so you're not creating a weaker section in the frame ?

Those trailer frames get quite some abuse from being rolled on from the rear, which leads to forced fracture, not fatigue fracture. (depending on rear overhang offcourse)


I like to keep box section frames as closed as possible, and put a little oil in it. The oil vapours will prevent rust, when taking apart old tractors that have been sitting for some years, you dont see as much rust as you'd expect, above the oil level in the gearbox, because of the vapours.

I'll have to try the oil idea. Cool!

As for the tail, yes, equal thickness. My Dads 18' trailer, after years of a 955 rolling over it, is a great example of what happens to the tail. My thoughts on this trailer is it is VERY solidly overbuilt, and what I have modded at the tail is so short that the leverage is not great enough to make much of a difference in the integrity.

Now I jus need to finish the details. Been suckered into a hotel room for the last two weeks and the trlr owner keeps changing his mind on the gate and headache rack.

Thanks again,

E