Are diesel conditioners needed for new

[jrsavoie]

The new low sulfur diesel fuel lacks lubricity. Sulfur was a good lubricant. Older diesel engines were never designed to run on today's low sulfur fuel (that is engines designed early 2000 or before). Hence it is a good idea to add the lubricity back to our diesel fuel for older engines. This can be done by adding a small amount of two stroke oil, at a rate of about 1:200 to 1:300. The very cheapest mineral oil based two stroke oil is perfect for this purpose, no need to spend money on expensive synthetic two stroke oil or even more expensive additives. It only has to lubricate the pump and injectors, nothing else. And it should burn just like diesel fuel does, without adding any extra carbon residue (as it does in two stroke gas engines).

If your engine is a modern design, say designed (not manufactured) after about 2005, it should be designed to run perfectly fine on low sulfur diesel, and the pump may be separately lubricated by engine oil, not just by the fuel itself. It does not need any extra lubricity additives whatsoever.

Now, my tractor drives less than the car. It only does about 60h a year. And I store it's diesel in a dozen jerrycans, enough for about one year. So I also add some diesel stabilizer to keep it fresh and avoid bacteria growth. I use the same treatment that the petrol companies already add to diesel, they just use it in smaller quantities as fuel it is intended to be used right away, not stored for a year as I do. It's called Pri-D fuel stabilizer, and sold by Amazon.

Warning: in the old days, people used to add gas (we call it petrol in Australia, its what goes in normal cars that do not have diesel engine) to diesel in winter to prevent it galling in the cold. That is a very bad idea today, as some gas (aka petrol in AU) nowdays contains ethanol, and you can never be 100% sure if it does or not no matter what the label at the pump station says. Ethanol absorbs water from the air and keeps it in solution instead of separating it out at the bottom of the fuel filter, and you end up with rust inside the old style (not common rail) diesel injectors and pumps that are made of plain steel.

European fuel is better than we get in the states. I would guess your Ausy fuel is also better than ours.

 

[jrsavoie]

I will tell of my experience... I had a B6200 set idle for a few years. The diesel in the tank turned to a black tar-like substance. Nothing that I have found so far will dissolve it. Not gasoline, not toulene, not alcohol, not lacquer thinner. Luckily the fuel filter did stop it before it went farther. I wound up replacing all hoses and I used a small tank from a lawn tractor. I am still using that setup. The main tank is still useless. Anyone have suggestions on how to proceed to clean the mess out of the tank?

I've heard steam cleaning works.

Brake Clean and alcohol/ethanol seem to help also. Not a fast process

 

[t44e6]

Are any diesel fuel conditioners needed or would be good to use on Subcompact tractors, about 21 hp. Mines new LS122 and mostly sits. It works a few hours a week? Tks

The old salts tell me to use 10% gasoline in winter. I use StarTron diesel treatment as well. 86 Yanmar YM336D.

 

[jrsavoie]

I use Power Service year-round. More importantly, I use only #2 diesel, not bio-diesel from the local gas station. Experience is a good teacher, but she gives the test and then the lesson. I learned the hard way that bio-diesel gels when the temperature is not really that cold. #2 does not. It is worth driving out of my way to get the real thing.

When I was running B-11, Power Service tech said to double dose. I'm guessing that ratio would hold true for lower percentages

 

[MMC]

I more worried about todays fuels than additives.
Biodiesel is junk and out fuel is too dirty.
Dealers/pump shops busier than ever with todays HP fuel systems and sophisticated injectors.

I ran ATF through my 24 year old 8.3L Cummins and the pump surging stopped. Cost me $24.

These discussions are some of the more valuable on the site. They remind us that we may not be paying attention to some important things. Unfortunately, manufacturers don't always share testing results with us common folk...uhh, customers. These additives are insurance policies against major repairs.

Forty years ago ATF was a go-to for diesel fuel. It may still be. I simply don't know today.

But, we all should do something. So, here's what I follow with about eight old and some new(er) diesels. Years ago, GM/Isuzu recommended Stanadyne Performance additive (lubricity formula). I settled on it and add it to my main tank as per instructions. My main tank has a Racor filter assembly with an "Aqua Bloc" filter media and a clear bowl and drain. Which I use...

Frankly, the more water separators and filters on tanks and tractors, the better...

For winter operations I used to cut diesel #2 with diesel #1 (kerosene). Which worked fine. Nowadays, I use Power Service white at anti-gel recommendations to each tractor tank in winter and yes, years ago I did have a fuel gelling problem (once) which made me a better human being (maybe not, but I'm a believer in diesel gelling/waxing now).

After using these procedures for some years, in the tractor/backhoe tanks that have a bottom drain, I don't see any appreciable water - something is working. And, I did add a NAPA filter head for an extra Wix/NAPA filter, with drain, to my diesel truck. Didn't cost that much as I remember.

One thing I'm personally going to do after these discussions is add a biocide to my main tank. I have known about diesel tank growths/algae problems for a half century...but I didn't have a problem, so I'm lazy. Gonna change that.

One last thing, I don't use it, but I read some tests in which Opti-lube seemed to have excellent results, at least for the test design criteria.

 

[Dieselpete208]

They do, for the price of a second mortgage:
View attachment 818617

You need to befriend a truck driver that runs state Side to pick up a gallon for you.

 

[FixAll]

Are any diesel fuel conditioners needed or would be good to use on Subcompact tractors, about 21 hp. Mines new LS122 and mostly sits. It works a few hours a week? Tks

Check with your diesel fuel vendor. If you get the fuel from whatever local gasoline station is nearby they may not have a clue or could provide bad information. I have an account with a local commercial fleet fuel depot and I asked. His taxed road fuel changes with the seasons, but his off road untaxed and dyed fuel always meets conditioned requirements including winter grade additives all year round. So for me putting additives in the fuel would be a waste of money.

 

[4x4moses]

Whether fuel additives are "needed" (or not), is a much-debated question. IMHO, it's better to be safe than sorry. In my 2018 Kioti DK4510, I use Howe's (for lubricity & a water control), and Killem biocide to minimize slime/algae. If nothing else, it gives me a little "peace-of-mind." Incidentally, I'm in the deep south so gelling is seldom an issue.

 

[Hermio]

You'll get a ton of different answers for sure....who's right.....darned if I know LOL. I also use fuel stabilizer in my gas engines, another point for argument.
I've got a 2011, 3160 3 cyl. Iseki that I use for hauling my yard trailer and plowing in the winter. I've always used Hawes fuel treatment. My theory is it's supposed to add lubricity, which is lacking in new fuel, and prevent fuel gelling which I don't want. I've never had a gel problem in the 5 or so years I've had it as for lubing...who knows and for a few bucks I'll keep using it as it can't hurt.

That is my philosophy too. I may be wasting a few bucks, but I have never had a fuel issue in nearly 50 years of owning diesel tractors. And mine sometimes sit for months between use. I would rather not find out the hard way that I really did need them. A few bucks for peace of mind is worth it to me.

 

[Hay Dude]

These discussions are some of the more valuable on the site. They remind us that we may not be paying attention to some important things. Unfortunately, manufacturers don't always share testing results with us common folk...uhh, customers. These additives are insurance policies against major repairs.

Forty years ago ATF was a go-to for diesel fuel. It may still be. I simply don't know today.

But, we all should do something. So, here's what I follow with about eight old and some new(er) diesels. Years ago, GM/Isuzu recommended Stanadyne Performance additive (lubricity formula). I settled on it and add it to my main tank as per instructions. My main tank has a Racor filter assembly with an "Aqua Bloc" filter media and a clear bowl and drain. Which I use...

Frankly, the more water separators and filters on tanks and tractors, the better...

For winter operations I used to cut diesel #2 with diesel #1 (kerosene). Which worked fine. Nowadays, I use Power Service white at anti-gel recommendations to each tractor tank in winter and yes, years ago I did have a fuel gelling problem (once) which made me a better human being (maybe not, but I'm a believer in diesel gelling/waxing now).

After using these procedures for some years, in the tractor/backhoe tanks that have a bottom drain, I don't see any appreciable water - something is working. And, I did add a NAPA filter head for an extra Wix/NAPA filter, with drain, to my diesel truck. Didn't cost that much as I remember.

One thing I'm personally going to do after these discussions is add a biocide to my main tank. I have known about diesel tank growths/algae problems for a half century...but I didn't have a problem, so I'm lazy. Gonna change that.

One last thing, I don't use it, but I read some tests in which Opti-lube seemed to have excellent results, at least for the test design criteria.

I just added another gallon of ATF to my Magnum a week ago and it has just about solved all my idle hiccups. Runs excellent now.
I like it in older diesel pumps.

I also run fuel additives in the off road diesel tank on back of my truck.