At a loss with Craftsman.

[Carl_NH]

The most common settings I use are .005 for intake and .007 for exhaust. Most engines will run fine in this range.

But for your exact engine clearances here is a chart.

 

[JDTank]

The most common settings I use are .005 for intake and .007 for exhaust. Most engines will run fine in this range.

But for your exact engine clearances here is a chart.

Thank you very much! I appreciate you going the extra mile and finding that for me.

I will have a go at it today and see just how bad the valves are out of whack. I know for a fact the owners are pretty bad with maintenance, so it likely has never had a valve adjustment in it's life.

 

[swick1]

As a general rule:

Tight valves = poor idling, hard starting, valve overheating/breaking/pitting caused by lack of heat transfer to head when closed

Loose valves = noisy valvetrain, reduced valve sealing surface life

Check the valves when the engine is cool! The clearance changes when it is warmed up.

 

[JDTank]

So i went out there today to do the valve adjustment. I don't believe this is an OHV engine, as the covers i pulled off did not have any valves behind them i could adjust.

Again it is a 19.5 HP briggs and stratton turbo cool engine, twin cylinder, opposed.

 

[swick1]

Take a picture and we'll have a look

 

[Carl_NH]

Youre right the opposed engines are not OHV they have traditional camshaft and valves. Usually these dont require frequent valve adjustment.

Maybe it is starter / current related since it starts with a jump?

 

[JDTank]

So I replaced the solenoid as the old one was giving some very drastic voltage fluctuations.

I also removed the starter and took it apart, and it looks pretty good inside. No broken brushes or parts rolling around, so that must not be it?

My question is, the old solenoid was a 4 pole, I picked up a 4 pole, but I am wondering if one of the tabs is for ground, or both for power? The solenoid I picked up was for a car. One of the small terminals is marked S and the other is marked I. I hooked 12 volts from the key to one of the small solenoid posts, but I am wondering if I should ground the other one, or send power to it as well? When I googled it I received conflicting stories. I guess it depends on the solenoid?

 

[v8only]

i would take the starter and get it tested, if a starter is starting to go it will require higher amps to turn it.

get the starter tested, if it fails get it rebuilt as it is FAR cheaper then a new one.

 

[liammulloy]

The machine is about 10 years old I believe. It has a B&S 19HP turbocool engine.

I had posted an article a week ago or so about the battery losing charge overnight. Turns out this isn't it.

I had the battery load tested at 2 different shops, and it checked out. Voltage checks out good when sitting, cranking, and whenever the engine is running.

What the machine is doing: When I crank it over, it will turn 1 or 2 revolutions, stop, and then start clicking until you let go of the key. If you try it immediately after a few times, it will only move the flywheel just slightly, and than click again until you stop holding the key over. If you walk away and let the machine sit for an hour or so, the battery recovers slightly and it will give a few revolutions again, but will not take off running. I picked up a battery charger today, it was on sale and I figured it's easier to boost with it (has a 100 amp engine start feature) than to keep hauling out cables and boosting from vehicles. I hooked it up to the battery, it charged for 30 seconds and than gave me the green light, charge complete, haha. Funny enough, after that 30 second charge at 2 amps, it started, figure that one out!

The last 12 days the machine has started each time I have gone to use it, now it is back to failing me each morning.

I removed the covers on the engine today so I could see what the starter does when the key is turned. When I tried to start the machine, the gear on the starter came up like normal, but since the machine did not start, the gear would not go back down. Shouldn't this gear go down, even if the machine did not start? When I can get the machine started, the gear goes down every time.

I had an issue with hydraulic lock 2 months ago, but I rebuilt the carb and changed the oil and fixed that problem. Just to cover my bases, I removed the spark plugs and cranked the engine to let the compression escape. Even in this case, the engine turns, but quickly starts to slow down as if the battery is dead.

My only two guesses left are:

1. Starter Solenoid.
2. Starter itself.

Well...any ideas?

Thanks!

that used to happen to me, i figured that is was the battery got a new one and still same thing. then i went to walmart and bought the biggest battery i could fit in there (just take some measurements IE with, length, depth) the tractor batteries are a joke, a whole 140ca VS 800!!! it makes a huge difference, other plus is you can run lights winch and other things with out draining the battery. Best thing i ever did. look in the pic, the black try is what the old battery sat on, the new one is much bigger. the only thing is if your battery is under the seat with a cut out compartment then i don't no what to tell you:thumbdown:

 

[bp fick]

Too much of this sounds far too familiar. I did a repair on my wife's Craftsman last summer. It's good as gold now and has started, even after months of sitting. In short, I replaced the stator, voltage regulator and re-set the valves (an easy job). I included a lot of step by step photos in this thread on it.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/craftsman-sears/213135-fixing-my-wifes-new-yard.html

Perhaps it will encourage you.