B2150 Alternator Output

[TimP]

dennisgw,

Thanks for the formula.

Now if I can find the specs on the standard alternator output, I can get an idea if I can add those lights without over taxing the alternator.

 

[moeh1]

Tim,
go to this topic:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...9929-kubota-2150-alternator-upgrade-help.html

 

[TimP]

Tim,
go to this topic:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...9929-kubota-2150-alternator-upgrade-help.html

That's it !!!!

I wonder if Kubota still has these parts available ?

I also have to find the B2150 Alternator output to make sure I really need to put in the larger alternator before I go and spend $500-600.

The ebay seller for the LED lights did send me an email wiht the Amp draw for the lights:

35W using 12V= 2.92A
27W using 12V= 2.25A
18W using 12V= 1.50A
10W using 12V= .83A

35W using 24V= 1.46A
27W using 24V= 1.13A
18W using 24V= .75A
10W using 24V= .42A

So if I buy two 18Watt I'd draw 3.0 Amps and if I went up to the 27Watt units, I'd draw 4.5 amps.

The 35 Watt lights may be really pushing it. I don't know what the tractors uses for the standard headlights or any other electrical needs whicle running.

 

[TimP]

I have another question about the "spare" electrical connection on the B2150.

There is a "Spare" power connection under the right rear fender. It is a "Female" bullet connector. Only one connection, no ground that I can see. So do I have to make sure whatever I hook up will also have a gound wire running to it ?

Where have most of you run a ground wire from ?

And I noticed that under the LEFT fender is another spare bullet connector, but this one is a "male".

What is that connector ?

Thanks for the help.

 

[moeh1]

The rear right fender bullet is there for a rear work light. I believe it is "live" with the headlights on, but not positive abot that. If you mount a worklight on the fender it picks up the ground return thru the fender itself. No idea on the left one...

 

[TimP]

The rear right fender bullet is there for a rear work light. I believe it is "live" with the headlights on, but not positive abot that. If you mount a worklight on the fender it picks up the ground return thru the fender itself. No idea on the left one...

Marty,

Thanks for all of the info. You're a fountain of useful information, and it's helped me a great deal.

I now have the Rigid Dually D2 lights and the brackets from Messick's. I'm still waiting for the Alternator upgrade stuff from TractorSmart, but I think I can get started on mounting and wiring.

To tell you the truth, even if I run all 4 lights, It's only an additonal 8 amp draw and I "may" be fine with the oem 12 amp dyno.

I really only plan to run 2 at a time (4 amp draw), but I'll have the upgrade to install in case I want to run a microwave too ! ;.)

Tim

 

[moeh1]

Dyno only puts out that 12 amps at some higher speed, and you need leftover amps to recharge the battery from glow plugs and starter use. You'll be happier when you have the new alternator in there.
Best,

 

[TimP]

Dyno only puts out that 12 amps at some higher speed, and you need leftover amps to recharge the battery from glow plugs and starter use. You'll be happier when you have the new alternator in there.
Best,

Well, coincidentally, the box just arrived with all of the new alternator upgrade parts.

Looks like I've got several projects to do.

The other thing I have to do is pull both the front and rear Tires & Rims off the B2150 to take them and have new tires mounted.

I've got to figure out exactly how to safely jack up and block the front and rear to remove the wheels.

 

[Mai]

TimP; I did the same thing on my almost new B2023. At first I added 4 regular tractor lights on the roll bar. 2 facing front, 2 rear. The voltage ( I had added a digital voltmeter )never got higher than 11.7. No good. So, I removed them and added 2 LED head lamps and 2 LED rear facing lamps. Now at 1600 rpm the voltage is still too low. At 2200 rpm it is in the 12.4 to 12.6 range. So, my take on that is that the alternator is really, really small. But it seems to work. I also have a 2500 lb electric winch on the front of the tractor that I use often and no problems yet.

 

[TimP]

TimP; I did the same thing on my almost new B2023. At first I added 4 regular tractor lights on the roll bar. 2 facing front, 2 rear. The voltage ( I had added a digital voltmeter )never got higher than 11.7. No good. So, I removed them and added 2 LED head lamps and 2 LED rear facing lamps. Now at 1600 rpm the voltage is still too low. At 2200 rpm it is in the 12.4 to 12.6 range. So, my take on that is that the alternator is really, really small. But it seems to work. I also have a 2500 lb electric winch on the front of the tractor that I use often and no problems yet.

HI Mai.

The OEM dynamo on my B2150 only put out 12-14 Amps at best, while the upgraded alternator put out a whopping 40 Amps.

That left me with a big reserve of amperage to use. I added 4 work lights and upgraded LED headlight bulbs with no worries about overloading the system.

It was expensive, but worth it to me.

I did try to run the 4 work lights using the old dynamo and was just too much of a draw so I did the upgrade.

I hope it will be a selling point now that I am getting ready to sell my B2150.