Bar & Chain Oil?

[mahlers]

My understanding is that the bar and chain oil isn't toxic to the environment like regular 30w is. I was told that it is a vegetable-based oil that can biodegrade over time, and it isn't even legal to use regular petroleum-based motor oils anymore.

 

[PhilNH5]

Mahlers,
There may be a law like that in California but not else where.
The oil is petroleum based and yes we are spraying it into the environment.
Some makers offer vegetable based oil. Stihl sells BioPlus™ Oil which is biodegradable.

Phil

 

[mahlers]

Interesting - and it wouldn't surprise me if the vegetable-based oil is a California thing.

 

[tawilson]

I'm pretty sure I've gotten some jugs of bar and chain oil that were marked 30 weight, and they weren't the winter blend.

 

[tawilson]

It is 30 weight. This is an add for Poulan Pro bar oil.
"Premium Bar & Chain Oil:
For Better Protection of your Bar & Chain
Red Dye for Improved Visibility
Also for use in and ALL other Chain Saws
30WT Oil"

Here's another for T. S. Moly Lubricants:
TS Bar and Chain Oil is a premium oil. Unlike other chain saw oils, TS Bar and Chain Oil contains molybdenum disulfide, which is a solid lubricant additive known for its ability to significantly reduce friction and wear.
Also present are components designed to reduce rapid oxidation of oil (from heat generated in the sawing process), to prevent foaming of oil (foam is air that voids lubrication on a microscopic scale) and to increase the "stickiness" of the oil (so it adheres better to the metal).
TS-Bar and Chain Oil meets the requirements of API SA and GL-1.
Specifications
SAE Grade 30
Viscosity, SUS
@100°F 750
@210°F 61
Pour Point, °F 5
Flash Point, °F 410
Molybdenum Disulfide, % 0.5

 

[Lazy]

Hi

I have used used motor oil for bar and chain lube for 20 years with no problems. I also use used motor oil to oil all my implements as it isn't as sticky as new oil and don't collect dirt.

Charlie.

 

[cp1969]

Anything--any kind of oil at all-- is better than nothing. As someone said, a bar and chain is a pretty coarse mechanism. That's why I don't fret over what I put in the oil tank but I never fill the gas tank completely full. I want to run out of gas long before I run out of oil.

I have to confess that I have never worn out a bar--I ruin them first, usually by getting them trapped in a tree. They get bent and then won't cut straight.

If ever spiral-cut trees (like hams) come into vogue, I'll have enough bars to last a lifetime.

Aside: Who's got the record for Most-Saws-Stuck-In-A-Tree at a time? I've had both of mine stuck at once--had to chop them out with an axe.

 

[Ole_Hickory]

I use my old motor oil and have done so for years.

 

[Junkman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I use my old motor oil and have done so for years. )</font>

I use it to top off my engine oil whenever it gets low and have done so for years. I never waste good oil. The car factory installed good oil and why waste it by taking it out? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Theowegian]

It is 30 wt.
But use chain saw bar oil for chain saw bars. And use motor oil for engines.

Here's the reason. Both oils use the same "base stock" of oil. The difference comes at the additive package. The additives make all the difference in the world. Specifically, chain saw oil will stick on the chain a lot better due to the additives in the oil. Motor oil is formulated to handle moisture and things that go on in an engine.

And besides, why use motor oil if the cost is virtually identical? On the other hand if you're using USED motor oils, then maybe you get to save about a dollar or two...

And you will notice that one tank of used motor oil wont last as long as the new bar oil. So you'll probably need to stop between gas fills and get more bar oil.

just my 0.02 worth.

dwight