Barndominium/Shop or "real" House?
- Thread starter ETD66SS
- Start date
Sprinkler Fitter
Silver Member
They can still shut your water off at the street
OP
ETD66SS
Gold Member
Around here all the water meters are in the house, most houses here have basements. And all water services have a shutoff valve at the street. Only time a meter is not in the house is if the run to the house is more than 200ft. From my experience anyways...
OP
ETD66SS
Gold Member
So I gave some thought to a drive through door arrangement in my shop. I don't want to change the building orientation so this is what I came up with:
I think I would frame in for the 3rd door (14ft x 16ft) when built, but would only add the door in the future if I really really need it. I don't want so many OH doors to the point I have no shop wall space.
I don't plan to have semi trucks pulling through this routinely, so I may ultimately not need all the future stone driveway shown.
As far as stone, I have recieved conflicting information from various builders on what to do in terms of stone under the shop/garage slab. Some guys tell me 6 inches of crusher run with fabric, others tell me 1 foot of washed stone without fabric, and other various combinations of fabric & stone...
I would think I'd want stone with fines in it for compaction purposes? Or do the fines hold too much water under the slab?
Here would be the initial stone I would need to get the building up (the structure rectangle shown is 48ft x 96ft):
Here is where I normally buy the stone: Shelby Stone
And thier current pricing:
They normally deliver in Tri-Axle dump trucks which hold about 25 ton. Last time I had any stone delivered was in 2021 during the COVID crazy prices for everything and it was $380 per truck load. I'd need 15 truck loads if I only went with 6" of stone under the slab, or 20 truck loads if I went with 12" under the slab.
Here are some pics of the last time I worked on part of my driveway:
This is what I normally use for geotextile:
I don't own any vibraory compaction equipment so I'd have to rent one for compacting the stone that will be under the slab.
My thoughts are, I strip the topsoil like I normally do, level out the area and compact the dirt with a heavy dirt roller that I have. Then I use the geotextile under the entire area. I'd cut out the fabric in the areas where the auger would dig for the perma-columns, then put down 6 inches of 2" crusher run and rent a vibratory roller to compact the entire area.
Before I do all that I have to trench for the water & gas that goes under the driveway, as well as trench to extend the coduit for the electrical service. I'd have to do all that before I put down the geotextile. Then there are floor/gutter drop drains if I want them. Not sure how/when I handle those...
I think I would frame in for the 3rd door (14ft x 16ft) when built, but would only add the door in the future if I really really need it. I don't want so many OH doors to the point I have no shop wall space.
I don't plan to have semi trucks pulling through this routinely, so I may ultimately not need all the future stone driveway shown.
As far as stone, I have recieved conflicting information from various builders on what to do in terms of stone under the shop/garage slab. Some guys tell me 6 inches of crusher run with fabric, others tell me 1 foot of washed stone without fabric, and other various combinations of fabric & stone...
I would think I'd want stone with fines in it for compaction purposes? Or do the fines hold too much water under the slab?
Here would be the initial stone I would need to get the building up (the structure rectangle shown is 48ft x 96ft):
Here is where I normally buy the stone: Shelby Stone
And thier current pricing:
They normally deliver in Tri-Axle dump trucks which hold about 25 ton. Last time I had any stone delivered was in 2021 during the COVID crazy prices for everything and it was $380 per truck load. I'd need 15 truck loads if I only went with 6" of stone under the slab, or 20 truck loads if I went with 12" under the slab.
Here are some pics of the last time I worked on part of my driveway:
This is what I normally use for geotextile:
I don't own any vibraory compaction equipment so I'd have to rent one for compacting the stone that will be under the slab.
My thoughts are, I strip the topsoil like I normally do, level out the area and compact the dirt with a heavy dirt roller that I have. Then I use the geotextile under the entire area. I'd cut out the fabric in the areas where the auger would dig for the perma-columns, then put down 6 inches of 2" crusher run and rent a vibratory roller to compact the entire area.
Before I do all that I have to trench for the water & gas that goes under the driveway, as well as trench to extend the coduit for the electrical service. I'd have to do all that before I put down the geotextile. Then there are floor/gutter drop drains if I want them. Not sure how/when I handle those...
Last edited:
OP
ETD66SS
Gold Member
So I have my final drawings done, and will be paying the architect for his final review. Before I do that, one question about the bay door for the 2 post truck lift.
I'd like to plan for a large BendPak lift: XPR-18CL or similar.
The size of the bay door currently in my plans is a 10' x 12' rollup. The dimension between the posts on this lift is 10', the height is 13'-9".
Those who have lifts, is there any reason to go with a larger door? I suppose I could go with a 14' tall door, but I won't be able to lift anything that needs that door height, so not sure what the point of that would be. What about wider? I guess I don't see a reason for that...
I'd like to plan for a large BendPak lift: XPR-18CL or similar.
The size of the bay door currently in my plans is a 10' x 12' rollup. The dimension between the posts on this lift is 10', the height is 13'-9".
Those who have lifts, is there any reason to go with a larger door? I suppose I could go with a 14' tall door, but I won't be able to lift anything that needs that door height, so not sure what the point of that would be. What about wider? I guess I don't see a reason for that...
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
My backhoe is 13ft 2in tall when driving around. My neighbor has a 12x12 foot door into his shop that he lowers his hoe when parking it so it will fit in the door. Otherwise, there isn't anything out there that needs a door taller then 12 feet unless you are doing something very specialized.
For a single car garage, I think 10 wide is the perfect width. 9 feet works for most cars, but it's still kind of tight.
For a shop, ten feet wide becomes kind of tight when backing a trailer into there. My current shop has a 10 foot door and I regret going that small. My next shop will have a 12 foot wide door. My gates are all 12 foot wide, and that's a comfortable width to drive tractors through with implements behind them.
My last shop and my current shop have roll up doors. I think they are OK, but I wont buy roll up doors again. I think that garage style doors with insulation are much, much better. The big drawback to garage style doors is the amount of ceiling you need to open them, and for the opener. If you have that space, it's a no brainer.
For a single car garage, I think 10 wide is the perfect width. 9 feet works for most cars, but it's still kind of tight.
For a shop, ten feet wide becomes kind of tight when backing a trailer into there. My current shop has a 10 foot door and I regret going that small. My next shop will have a 12 foot wide door. My gates are all 12 foot wide, and that's a comfortable width to drive tractors through with implements behind them.
My last shop and my current shop have roll up doors. I think they are OK, but I wont buy roll up doors again. I think that garage style doors with insulation are much, much better. The big drawback to garage style doors is the amount of ceiling you need to open them, and for the opener. If you have that space, it's a no brainer.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Just glancing at your earlier post about the water line, and not remembering what I said before, I'll comment on that again.
I think it's super important to have a water main valve at the house, or even better, inside the house. 90% of the houses that I work on, I have to turn off the water to the house at the meter. Some are easy, some are so tight that I have to call the City to come turn it off. They do this for free, and they are fairly quick about it, but it still takes time for them to show up.
When I built my house, I put a good quality brass gate valve in the ground, just outside my door. It's easy to find, and it always works. But it really sucks having to turn it off at night, in a storm, or when you are in a rush. It's never pleasant reaching into a hole in the ground to turn off a water line.
When I was making some changes on my house, I decided to add another valve to the main water line that was indoors. It's on a wall in my shop, and it's barely noticeable at 3 feet up, but super easy to get to no matter what's going on outside.
I think it's super important to have a water main valve at the house, or even better, inside the house. 90% of the houses that I work on, I have to turn off the water to the house at the meter. Some are easy, some are so tight that I have to call the City to come turn it off. They do this for free, and they are fairly quick about it, but it still takes time for them to show up.
When I built my house, I put a good quality brass gate valve in the ground, just outside my door. It's easy to find, and it always works. But it really sucks having to turn it off at night, in a storm, or when you are in a rush. It's never pleasant reaching into a hole in the ground to turn off a water line.
When I was making some changes on my house, I decided to add another valve to the main water line that was indoors. It's on a wall in my shop, and it's barely noticeable at 3 feet up, but super easy to get to no matter what's going on outside.