Best mini-spit heat pump?

[Ed of all trades]

Why not try a pac unit. It has every thing in one place and just needs vented to the outside. I had a guy tell me I could get one for about $800. It is not designed for much duct work and easy to install. They even come charged. Ed

 

[lt190b]

Why not try a pac unit. It has every thing in one place and just needs vented to the outside. I had a guy tell me I could get one for about $800. It is not designed for much duct work and easy to install. They even come charged. Ed

Any details, link, Ed?

 

[GManBart]

I spent months researching them for my pole barn and I'm set on a Mitsubishi. In fact, I'm likely going to add one to the loft in our house as well...pump cold air at the top of the house and ease the load on our central unit (the adjacent great room has a 21ft peak, and no cold air ducts up top). My heating/cooling guy said he was confident I could do the install, then he'd just come evacuate and charge it for me.

 

[RalphVa]

I asked for a Mitsubishi from our local HVAC people about 3 years ago. They said they were getting better deals on Fujitsu. That's what they bid on and what we went with. Assume what you're talking about are ductless units. The Fujitsu is a 27 SEER unit.

Ralph

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I asked for a Mitsubishi from our local HVAC people about 3 years ago. They said they were getting better deals on Fujitsu. That's what they bid on and what we went with. Assume what you're talking about are ductless units. The Fujitsu is a 27 SEER unit.

Ralph

What model?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

If you are a proficient auto AC service tech you should have no problem and have all the equipment you need except maybe silver brazing capability (copper lines). Big difference is the piping system being copper and the components are such as filter/dryer and sight glass. A lot of the small package units have pre-charged refrigerant lines factory charged and insulated. The small cans of refrigerant, you probably use at work, may not match the system charge and can get pretty expensive on your new system. You need to get acquainted at your local HVAC supplier. To buy refrigerant there you will need to show your EPA 608 Refrigerant Handlers certification (probably not required for your auto work).

If I lived in MN I would be more concerned about heating costs than AC costs. Or, maybe equally as you probably have hotter summers and a lot colder summers than we do here in the ocean air conditioned PAC NW.

LOL

Ron, former HVACR Service Technician and still 608 certified.

A mini-split cannot be the primary heating system in MN. I'm mostly concerned about the cooling ability, and how quiet it is. Heating concerns are for backup if the boiler takes a time-out.

 

[joefromga]

I have two Samsung units. Both remote control with digital display and all sorts of features I don't use. I leave them both on 71 and they do the rest. I am friends with an hvac guy who works at trane supply. I got them for half price.

They are no brazed fittings but flared. You should mineral oil those fittings and use proper wrenches to tighten because they will leak if you don't.

I installed them myself on the second floor by building a deck and carrying them up the ladder. The outside units are about 75 lbs. The deck uses chains to hold it up and sort of looks like a moat door.

The hardest part was drilling through the concrete wall on a 24ft ladder. Also make sure the drains are done properly.

They are whisper silent inside and out. You can't hear the outside unit even on the ladder standing right in front of them. They have special shaped fans with out of phase balancing or something to make all sounds go away.

About 2 years now or 3. I've been very satisfied and I'm in South coastal GA where it's hotter than anywhere else. Always 71 in my two rooms. Heat works well too but we rarely need it.

 

[TnAndy]

Why not try a pac unit. It has every thing in one place and just needs vented to the outside. I had a guy tell me I could get one for about $800. It is not designed for much duct work and easy to install. They even come charged. Ed

I don't like them due to the noise factor. Anytime you have a package unit, like a window AC, or one of those cheap motel units, the noise is loud. The indoor units of mini splits are generally whisper quiet. I have to look at the little LED on mine to even tell if it's on when on low.

I did the installs on both my mini-split units.....an 18kBTU about 10 years ago ( I think it's mid-teens rated), and a 12kBTU for the master bedroom couple years ago (rated 23 if I recall)...Both Mitsubishi. Both have done well, no service issues. I mounted the units, ran the lines, then paid a HVAC guy to come vacuum done the lines, turn the pre-charged gas loose, and start up the units. $100 in each case, saving me from rounding up a vac pump and set of gauges. For lines, you buy refrigeration copper of the recommended size, and flare the ends. I think mine you could go 50' was the recommended max length for the amount of gas in the unit....neither of mine was close to that long.

 

[RalphVa]

What model?

Bad memory. It's 18 SEER. Model # is AOU18RLXFZ connected to a 12k BTU and 7k BTU indoor units.

Ralph

 

[RalphVa]

I mainly just use ours (in basement) for additional heating in winter. Have one indoor unit right above my desk here and another in the den in another corner of the basement, blowing onto the couch there. Using them occasionally with just fan on in indoor units, mainly here at my desk where I don't have an overhead fan. The big heat pump services both the basement and the 1st floor of the house, and basement cannot be zoned out. In winter, one can freeze in the basement unless you want to run the rest at well above 70. When I was sick with CHF, I was using little direct electric heaters to keep myself warm before we put this Fujitsu system in.

It's totally noiseless, both indoor and outdoor units. I remember walking by similar units at offices in Japan. Hardly any noise. No backup heating coils in these units.

Think they can run up to around 7 indoor units. Could have gone with them instead of replacing the upstairs heat pump that we did recently, but it would have been a much more involved job, as they have to drill some holes through the brick where each indoor unit goes to run the refrigerant lines (R410a). Would be a challenge, too, where to run the lines, etc. Probably would run them around inside the eaves of the house and just drop down to each indoor unit. Would be a lot of refrigerant lines.

You DO NOT want one of these indoor units discharging right above where you mainly sit or lie when it's operating in heating mode, as it often goes for a rather long period just blowing semi-warm air before the compressor kicks in again to make it truly warm. Okay in AC or fan mode though, as that's what you want.

Ralph