Just picked up this Case 480F and was told a brake line was leaking. If a brake line is leaking wouldnt you have a low reservoir? I Finally got the covers off and looked and both were totally full, but i have no brakes or any pedal. Anyone have a clue what might cause this. Another note, who ever designed this brake reservoir location and the way in which the covers are held down should have their head examined... What a joke. I wasnt about to pull the whole dash out, so i cut a access panel in the side of the dash and will put a piano type hinge and a lock to keep it shut. Meanwhile, besides the brakes and alot of the wiring, she runs awesome. Rebuilt one dump cylinder and replaced 4 hoses and now im onto the brakes and wiring. Also repaired the Hour meter since a new one is 2100 bucks. I hope someone out there can give me some input on the brakes. You tube tells you nothing really.
Brake reservoir full but no pedal
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LouNY
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Good luck with those brakes.
I don't recall if the F series had the band brakes or the expanding disk brakes.
You are going to have a slave cylinder at each brake that when activated will pull on a toggle type linkage to apply the brakes.
If (when) the toggle or the linkages get worn the brakes will not work good even with new bands or disc's.
They are going to be under the floor boards on the bull gear pinions.
I don't recall if the F series had the band brakes or the expanding disk brakes.
You are going to have a slave cylinder at each brake that when activated will pull on a toggle type linkage to apply the brakes.
If (when) the toggle or the linkages get worn the brakes will not work good even with new bands or disc's.
They are going to be under the floor boards on the bull gear pinions.
Roadworthy
Elite Member
If you have or had a leaky line you may have air in the system. You may wish to start by bleeding the brakes. If that doesn't do it and Lou's suggestions don't work you may need to overhaul or replace the master cylinder. You could have an internal bypass leak.
DJ54
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Here is a link to Case Construction for the 480F. Case construction king loader backhoe | Case CE | MyCNHi US Store Scroll down, and find the brake category, and it will show views of the components of the brake system.
I have a 480C, and remember when redoing brakes on mine, I remember reading on later series, master cylinders used hydraulic oil, not brake fluid. If brake fluid is used, instead of hydraulic oil, it can damage the master cylinders. On my 480C, one brake line was rusted through, but the other was good. It also had very good pedal, yet no braking action. I bought 2 new aftermarket master cylinders through Joseph Industries :Remanufactured Transmissions, Torque Converters, Engines - Joseph Industries , which eliminated part of the problem. They were the least expensive that I could find at the time. This was in 2012, and they still work great, so they are decent parts.
I also got new slave cylinders from them. At the time, only a few more dollars, than what most wanted for a rebuild kit. I also installed new brake lines, but opted to make my own from NiCopp line, as Case wanted $75 each for preformed lines.
Beyond that, on my 310B, the model I had before that, the bull pinion shaft seal was out on both sides, and had the brake discs soaked with SAE 90, making them pretty well useless. An old Case mechanic showed me how to "boil" the oil out of the brake discs, saving buying new ones. Simply hung them up outside, and took a propane torch to them, and literally boiled the oil out of them. Being they were bonded type discs, I was afraid it would break the bonding, but he assured me it would not. Worked like a charm. I could not believe the amount of oil that came out of them. Let them cool, and did a final cleanup with brake cleaner. Buffed with a Roloc medium gasket removal disc, to rough it up a bit. Made a world of difference, and would actually lock up the wheel, if enough pressure was applied to the pedal.
If those seals are bad, you can tell by looking at the bottom of the brake chamber housing. If there are drops of oil hanging below the housing, where it bolts to the transmission housing, the seals are bad. If there is no sign of oil, still might be worth pulling the brake housings, as a lot of dust, and dirt/silt can get in there, and keep it from functioning right. I also bought new 1" balls from Joseph Ind., as mine were rusted/pitted beyond cleaning up. I see now, those ball bearings are now $13.58 through Case/IG Ag., probably more through Case Construction. At the time Case Construction was 10%+ higher on the same part, through Case/IH Ag.
Using the above link to Case Construction, find the part number of anything you need, copy, and paste Google to search for aftermarket parts. You can find the Case Construction dealer price, by selecting a local dealer. I assure you, you'll be shocked at some of the prices. Joseph Industries had all the parts I needed in stock, and were shipped/received promptly. Fortunately, I'm only 90 miles from them, and anything I ordered by 10:00 a.m., was on my porch the next afternoon, by 2:00 p.m.
The last time I ordered from there, I spoke with a woman, and she knows her stuff. Give her the OEM part number, and she'll have it on it's way in short order. You can shop online, and compare, but imagine they still have the best prices out there.
I have a 480C, and remember when redoing brakes on mine, I remember reading on later series, master cylinders used hydraulic oil, not brake fluid. If brake fluid is used, instead of hydraulic oil, it can damage the master cylinders. On my 480C, one brake line was rusted through, but the other was good. It also had very good pedal, yet no braking action. I bought 2 new aftermarket master cylinders through Joseph Industries :Remanufactured Transmissions, Torque Converters, Engines - Joseph Industries , which eliminated part of the problem. They were the least expensive that I could find at the time. This was in 2012, and they still work great, so they are decent parts.
I also got new slave cylinders from them. At the time, only a few more dollars, than what most wanted for a rebuild kit. I also installed new brake lines, but opted to make my own from NiCopp line, as Case wanted $75 each for preformed lines.
Beyond that, on my 310B, the model I had before that, the bull pinion shaft seal was out on both sides, and had the brake discs soaked with SAE 90, making them pretty well useless. An old Case mechanic showed me how to "boil" the oil out of the brake discs, saving buying new ones. Simply hung them up outside, and took a propane torch to them, and literally boiled the oil out of them. Being they were bonded type discs, I was afraid it would break the bonding, but he assured me it would not. Worked like a charm. I could not believe the amount of oil that came out of them. Let them cool, and did a final cleanup with brake cleaner. Buffed with a Roloc medium gasket removal disc, to rough it up a bit. Made a world of difference, and would actually lock up the wheel, if enough pressure was applied to the pedal.
If those seals are bad, you can tell by looking at the bottom of the brake chamber housing. If there are drops of oil hanging below the housing, where it bolts to the transmission housing, the seals are bad. If there is no sign of oil, still might be worth pulling the brake housings, as a lot of dust, and dirt/silt can get in there, and keep it from functioning right. I also bought new 1" balls from Joseph Ind., as mine were rusted/pitted beyond cleaning up. I see now, those ball bearings are now $13.58 through Case/IG Ag., probably more through Case Construction. At the time Case Construction was 10%+ higher on the same part, through Case/IH Ag.
Using the above link to Case Construction, find the part number of anything you need, copy, and paste Google to search for aftermarket parts. You can find the Case Construction dealer price, by selecting a local dealer. I assure you, you'll be shocked at some of the prices. Joseph Industries had all the parts I needed in stock, and were shipped/received promptly. Fortunately, I'm only 90 miles from them, and anything I ordered by 10:00 a.m., was on my porch the next afternoon, by 2:00 p.m.
The last time I ordered from there, I spoke with a woman, and she knows her stuff. Give her the OEM part number, and she'll have it on it's way in short order. You can shop online, and compare, but imagine they still have the best prices out there.
Williy
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Best thing to do is get a parts list for your tractor
then you know where all parts etc are and if you
need a part you have the part number.
willy
then you know where all parts etc are and if you
need a part you have the part number.
willy
Williy
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Best thing to do is get a parts list for your tractor
then you know where all parts etc are and if you
need a part you have the part number.
willy
then you know where all parts etc are and if you
need a part you have the part number.
willy
DJ54
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- IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
To be honest, I never looked at all of the schematics, but it is a lot different set up than my 480C. Personally, if it were me, I'd be getting a shop/service manual. I have one for mine, which is an OEM manual. It's like 4" thick, and covers every repair on the machine. They are well written, and very descriptive in repair procedures, and have actual pictures of components. Worth their weight in gold when doing repairs.
I got mine off ebay, I took the liberty of doing a search for the 480F manuals on ebay. There's more than several service manuals listed. Some are OEM originals, and a couple reprints. I prefer OEM originals, due to some reprint quality, but there is a pretty good deal on a reprint. If you decide to purchase one, let your conscience be your guide, whether to spend another $50 more on an OEM manual. Mine had a few smudges from being used in the shop, but nothing bad enough to cover any wording, or pics. I've probably added a few to it myself.
Here's a link to ebay, and the 480F manuals up for sale. case 480f backhoe in Heavy Equipment Manuals & Books: Search Result | eBay
Yeah i had to tear out the floor which was not a fun job because of the rust and the cab being there. Now ive replaced the left line and will fire it up to see if i can get the brakes bled. Dont ever want to replace these lines again. What a pain the ass. New york winters have not been good to this tractor