Brake reservoir full but no pedal

[480Fman]

To be honest, I never looked at all of the schematics, but it is a lot different set up than my 480C. Personally, if it were me, I'd be getting a shop/service manual. I have one for mine, which is an OEM manual. It's like 4" thick, and covers every repair on the machine. They are well written, and very descriptive in repair procedures, and have actual pictures of components. Worth their weight in gold when doing repairs.

I got mine off ebay, I took the liberty of doing a search for the 480F manuals on ebay. There's more than several service manuals listed. Some are OEM originals, and a couple reprints. I prefer OEM originals, due to some reprint quality, but there is a pretty good deal on a reprint. If you decide to purchase one, let your conscience be your guide, whether to spend another $50 more on an OEM manual. Mine had a few smudges from being used in the shop, but nothing bad enough to cover any wording, or pics. I've probably added a few to it myself.

Here's a link to ebay, and the 480F manuals up for sale. case 480f backhoe in Heavy Equipment Manuals & Books: Search Result | eBay

Yeah i thought i bought a damn manual and it ended up being a PDF file. Was pretty bummed. Would definitely rather have the paper version

 

[DJ54]

I used the NiCopp line on mine. It's been 10 years, and still work good. Hopefully bleeding the brakes will fix your problem. If the bull pinion seals are leaking, and have the brakes oily, that is quite another project. Mine just has the ROPS on it, the left side I could get from on top, with the floor panel removed. I took the ROPS off to get to the right side, as I could not fir myself, between the front corner post, and the fender. Better than laying on my back, and working from underneath.

The PO of mine cleaned a lot of parking lots with this one, and apparently was in a lot of salt. Lots of rusty bolts, and brake lines rusted through. Plus, lots of sediment worked into the brake housings. Took a lot of heat, and penetrate to get things apart, and working again. Lots of Never Seize applied here, there, and yon'. Even had the differential lock shaft rusted enough to not move. Got it freed up, and still works as it should.

Mine was a winter project, thank goodness for a roomy heated shop.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Just picked up this Case 480F and was told a brake line was leaking. If a brake line is leaking wouldnt you have a low reservoir? I Finally got the covers off and looked and both were totally full, but i have no brakes or any pedal. Anyone have a clue what might cause this. Another note, who ever designed this brake reservoir location and the way in which the covers are held down should have their head examined... What a joke. I wasnt about to pull the whole dash out, so i cut a access panel in the side of the dash and will put a piano type hinge and a lock to keep it shut. Meanwhile, besides the brakes and alot of the wiring, she runs awesome. Rebuilt one dump cylinder and replaced 4 hoses and now im onto the brakes and wiring. Also repaired the Hour meter since a new one is 2100 bucks. I hope someone out there can give me some input on the brakes. You tube tells you nothing really.

No you would not have a low reservoir. If you pump pedal 50 times it may get low.

We have a big NH cab tractor with mineral oil based brake fluid. Empty every time you want to use it. Buy brake fluid by the case. I know we should fix, but there is no fix. Only the same stuff. And I ain't splitting no cab tractor unless I'm sure to fix it.

I will put a clutch in, no problem. But I know a new clutch will fix a bad clutch. But I ain't too sure about this brake deal. We just live with it for now. If you use it daily it don't leak as bad. But it sits except for doing hay this time of year. 113 heat index yesterday. Fill it and bleed it. We have gotten good at it.

I got that cab tractor because my Doo dad is 74 years old now. We spent years together building houses mostly. He's a hard worker still. But, he be having skin cancer problems from all them years on a new slab framing something up. So I want him inside in that AC. I never use that tractor unless he wants me to move it out of the way. Plus, he likes to spray chemicals.

 

[480Fman]

Yeah Roustabout. Im learning alot as i go. I do know one thing. Changing a simple brake line is a royal pain in the ass....lol. It took be nearly 5 hours just trying to get to the line nuts and getting them loose and off. I actually ended up cutting the damn lines . Went to Auto zone and bought at 6 ft section of steel line and spent another 2 hrs trying to get the nuts in position to get started. There is literally no room. Im not happy with the line i bought though because even using a tubing bender, it still started to kink. Was able to save it though and finally get it hooked up without using the rubber line that was connected to the slave cylinder. Another fun job was bleeding the brakes by myself. Since i had the floor out i used my left forearm to pump the brakes and my right hand to loosen and tighten the bleeder. Guess what, I have god damn brakes....woooohoooo. They still werent the best so i checked on how to adjust the brakes and did that by feel. I couldnt lift the tractor and do it the right way, so im praying that worked. If i have to do this job again i hope its not to soon. What a pain.

 

[480Fman]

I used the NiCopp line on mine. It's been 10 years, and still work good. Hopefully bleeding the brakes will fix your problem. If the bull pinion seals are leaking, and have the brakes oily, that is quite another project. Mine just has the ROPS on it, the left side I could get from on top, with the floor panel removed. I took the ROPS off to get to the right side, as I could not fir myself, between the front corner post, and the fender. Better than laying on my back, and working from underneath.

The PO of mine cleaned a lot of parking lots with this one, and apparently was in a lot of salt. Lots of rusty bolts, and brake lines rusted through. Plus, lots of sediment worked into the brake housings. Took a lot of heat, and penetrate to get things apart, and working again. Lots of Never Seize applied here, there, and yon'. Even had the differential lock shaft rusted enough to not move. Got it freed up, and still works as it should.

Mine was a winter project, thank goodness for a roomy heated shop.

I wish i was that fortunate to be able to wait, but i need my tractor for pushing snow. I finally after busting my ass, sweating my balls off and swearing every curse word under the sun got the line replaced and my brakes now work. Not a job i ever want to do again because there is just no room under there to work. I think i found out my back can contort in many different positions and i already have a bad back....lol

 

[480Fman]

Just picked up this Case 480F and was told a brake line was leaking. If a brake line is leaking wouldnt you have a low reservoir? I Finally got the covers off and looked and both were totally full, but i have no brakes or any pedal. Anyone have a clue what might cause this. Another note, who ever designed this brake reservoir location and the way in which the covers are held down should have their head examined... What a joke. I wasnt about to pull the whole dash out, so i cut a access panel in the side of the dash and will put a piano type hinge and a lock to keep it shut. Meanwhile, besides the brakes and alot of the wiring, she runs awesome. Rebuilt one dump cylinder and replaced 4 hoses and now im onto the brakes and wiring. Also repaired the Hour meter since a new one is 2100 bucks. I hope someone out there can give me some input on the brakes. You tube tells you nothing really.

 

[DonRybak]

480Fman, glad you got it fixed. You mentioned the issue having to bleed the brakes by yourself. it's a little late now but they make bleeder vales for a one man operation. I used them on motorcycles I owned in the past. Seems like they were called speed bleeders but not positive. They are like one way schrader valves where when you press down to eject fluid it opens to let the fluid drain then an internal ball valve closes to keep air from re-entering the system. Once the air bubbles are gone just tighten it up like a normal bleeder valve. I always ordered them by make and model of my bikes but they had them for cars too. I imagine you could order them by thread type and length.

 

[Williy]

No you would not have a low reservoir. If you pump pedal 50 times it may get low.

We have a big NH cab tractor with mineral oil based brake fluid. Empty every time you want to use it. Buy brake fluid by the case. I know we should fix, but there is no fix. Only the same stuff. And I ain't splitting no cab tractor unless I'm sure to fix it.

I will put a clutch in, no problem. But I know a new clutch will fix a bad clutch. But I ain't too sure about this brake deal. We just live with it for now. If you use it daily it don't leak as bad. But it sits except for doing hay this time of year. 113 heat index yesterday. Fill it and bleed it. We have gotten good at it.

I got that cab tractor because my Doo dad is 74 years old now. We spent years together building houses mostly. He's a hard worker still. But, he be having skin cancer problems from all them years on a new slab framing something up. So I want him inside in that AC. I never use that tractor unless he wants me to move it out of the way. Plus, he likes to spray chemicals.

Have your dad wash his skin cancer with baking soda
solution to see if that will help!

willy

 

[carlens.la]

Just picked up this Case 480F and was told a brake line was leaking. If a brake line is leaking wouldnt you have a low reservoir? I Finally got the covers off and looked and both were totally full, but i have no brakes or any pedal. Anyone have a clue what might cause this. Another note, who ever designed this brake reservoir location and the way in which the covers are held down should have their head examined... What a joke. I wasnt about to pull the whole dash out, so i cut a access panel in the side of the dash and will put a piano type hinge and a lock to keep it shut. Meanwhile, besides the brakes and alot of the wiring, she runs awesome. Rebuilt one dump cylinder and replaced 4 hoses and now im onto the brakes and wiring. Also repaired the Hour meter since a new one is 2100 bucks. I hope someone out there can give me some input on the brakes. You tube tells you nothing really.

You may wish to start by bleeding the brakes. If that doesn't do it and Lou's suggestions don't work you may need to overhaul or replace the master cylinder.

Speed Test​