Branson Tractor

   / Branson Tractor #1  

450

New Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2017
Messages
185
Location
Fairbanks, Alaska
Tractor
Branson 3725CH
Just found out there is a place that sales Branson tractors about 15 miles from me and was wondering if there is any reason not to buy one. They do not stock them but said they would order me one and do any warranty work. I have read where parts were a issue but all those treads were old. I would be looking at the 3520CX or 3725CH. I like the fact that the DOC/DPF filter can be removed if need be without any issues. I live in Fairbanks, Alaska and it gets cold in the winter when the tractor would be used a lot and keeping it hot enough to keep the DPF clean might be a problem.

Just a note, there are not a lot of tractors up here so dealer support will be hard with any brand. Plus Kubota and JD dealers are asking crazy prices for anything. The other closest dealers are 350+ miles away and that trip can be ruff in the middle of winter if I had to make it back to dealer for some reason. Also the place that would order me a Branson has been in business for a long time with multiple locations in the state so I don稚 think they will be going anywhere soon. Thanks for the help.

450
 
   / Branson Tractor #2  
Ask them if they keep typically needed parts in stock. Secondly, ask them how quickly Branson delivers parts that have to be ordered. I would also ask them if you can talk with customers who have purchased tractors from them.

What other products do they carry?
 
   / Branson Tractor
  • Thread Starter
#3  
It is a Trailer Company that deals with all different kinds/types of trailers and flatbeds for pickups. They have a very good reputation. I will ask them questions.
 
   / Branson Tractor #4  
Sounds like owning a tractor in Fairbanks is a challenge. Bransons are on par, quality wise, with any other brand. You are right about the emission system, Branson's might be easier to make work in cold weather than other types. You can always get parts from the lower 48 if you can't get them from your trailer dealer. You shouldn't need anything very often.
 
   / Branson Tractor #6  
I'm really happy with my F36R wich is the same as the 3515R in the US but without the DPF crap on it. So far I'm really pleased with it. Loads of power for a 35 HP tractor. I've made an hydraulic winch and a hydraulic 3 point link for it as well.

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   / Branson Tractor #7  
I felt that the four cylinder 3725 was smoother and quieter than the three cylinder 3520, but the 3520 sounded more like a tractor. That may be influenced by my previous tractor which was also a triple or my liking for three cylinder motorcycles. The 3725's engine has a counterbalancer which helps reduce vibration. Mine came with a block heater but I think that was a dealer add-on to help differentiate it from the 3520. The 3725's also slightly larger displacement than the 3520- 2 liters (closer to 2.1 really) vs 1.8.

My dealer Dave's Tractor in Red Bluff CA has customers in other states like Hawaii. I'm about 250 miles from them and they're ok with shipping me stuff. Big Red's in Texas will also ship.

There is a temp sensor in the DPF that is connected to the data logger but no way I know of to access it. Based on some research I did a while back I think the Branson's DPF is a low temp constant regen type. I think it'll be easier to get it up to temp in cold weather but I don't know for sure. Branson puts a green line on the tach from 2000-2500 rpm and the manual say to run it there to keep the DPF happy.
 
   / Branson Tractor
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Jeff, yes I am following that thread. Thanks

Thanks for all the info guys and yes owning a tractor in Alaska can be complicated but I think it will be worth the effort. Having to order the filters online wouldn't be a issue because living in Alaska you get use to ordering "A LOT" of thing online. You see a lot of skid steers up here plowing snow but I think I would like a tractor better. I think it would be more comfortable, less trailering(roadable) and less expensive.

I also think from what I can find, the 3520CX (cab version) only comes in the Shuttle Shift. I would prefer HST but never used a shuttle shift. How is the shuttle shift for loader work? The tractor will be used a lot for plowing snow and maintain gravel driveways. Thanks again for the info.
 
   / Branson Tractor #9  
I have owned several tractors​ worse one was a ls 3025 at 50 hrs it blew the engine because of a oil seal failure that's common with that model . A Ford we had was awesome and a Mitsubishi was awesome as well .2 Kubotas and had dpf issues that kept creeping in . Currently have a Branson and so far love it with no issues . it does like fuel more than some of the others.
 
   / Branson Tractor #10  
450,

I hear you on the "cold" thing. It gets cold here too by most accounts. Steady temps in the -40 F range (no cheating "wind chill" BS either, that's raw air temp). My 2 cents from a year of owning mine:

Obviously, get a block heater installed. I don't think they ship that way, but I think the dealer can put that in (yours may do it automatically because of your location, mine did). Also, get a heater for the oil pan sump, and the transmission (especially if you go HST). I have the block heater, a stick on pad heater on my oil pan sump, and a stick on heater on my transmission housing. Makes a HUGE difference. Especially the transmission heater, can't recommend enough. I have mine plugged into a timer so it turns on a few hours before I need it. And keep your idle speed above 1500 so the diesel doesn't lose heat and actually start cooling off while idling.

Also, fill those rear tires with Rimguard. Good to -40 F (if I recall), I certainly haven't "frozen" my tires here anyway. And the extra weight really helps with traction for pushing large piles of snow and ice. I have not needed chains, even pushing piles on ice covered driveway.

Are you planning on running any pto driven attachments? Like a snow blower in winter or brush hog in summer? Only issue I have with my dpf filter is winter time, and I think it's more to do with no load being put on the engine. Just putting around pushing snow with blade or bucket doesn't get the engine loaded down long enough, and pumping hot exhaust into the filter. You need exhaust temps in the 1100 F and up to get the soot cooker to do it's thing. I don't (yet) have a 3pt pto driven snow blower, but I think running one of those in winter would work the engine hard enough to keep the cooker hot.

I did get my dpf to the point where it was partially clogged this winter, idiot light going off, power loss, etc. Worked with my dealer on it, and his best advice in my case was to road the tractor. I have a gravel road path that gives me a 3 mile run with very little traffic, so it's safe to road it there. At first, when it was partially plugged, I had to run that road circuit 2 or 3 times to get the filter to clean itself out. I was able to fully clear it out, and it's back to full power and running fine again. Now, until mowing season starts, I'm roading it down that "lap" 1 time, about once a month now, to get the filter fully hot and clean.

Once I start mowing again, running the brush hog off the pto will keep the filter cleaned out all season.

If it does become an issue, the fall back plan (for me) is to remove the soot cooker entirely. I may still do this yet this summer and just be done with it. But any welding/muffler shop worth a cup of warm pee should be able to use your cooker as a template, and weld you up a drop in replacement muffler in it's place to bolt up to the factory mounting flanges. Then, just disconnect and remove the data logger (mine is mounted to my battery hold down bracket). If I "delete" mine, I'd like to keep it a bolt on swap, so I can go back if I wish, or at least be able to sell it or trade it in (if I wish) with the original parts available.

Still very happy with mine, I think I have 85-87 hrs on it now. I like the power, the heavy chassis weight, the lifting power on the FEL and on the 3 pt hitch. No problems at all lifting, carrying and dropping full sized round bales into a livestock feeder. The cab with heat (and AC) is the only way to fly in winter. Can literally clear snow in a long sleeved shirt (well, and pants) and be comfortable once the tractor heats up all the way, you will HAVE to take your coat off. I like the turning radius, will turn sharp enough that the inside rear tire really only pivots around. On the cabbed HST 25 series, the diff lock is under your left boot heel, instead of on the right side with the HST pedals. I do like and use the cruise control when I'm mowing, or pushing snow on a long driveway. When mowing, you do have to stop and blow the chaff out of your radiator regularly, but I think that is really on all SCUT/CUT tractors these days. The front down spout exhaust pipe seems to increase the amount of chaff that gets kicked up in front of the tractor.

About all I can think of, sorry for the wall of text. Send me a PM if you have any specific "cold" questions. And yes, my tractor sits outside (for now) all winter long.
 
 
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