Building a 30x50x16 pole barn
- Thread starter mfairbank
- Start date
RPW
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2009
- Messages
- 1,105
Take your time and measure, measure and mesure. I'm building one too but mine is metal on concrete.
Rustyiron
Super Member
Start putting your wall purlins on keeping the posts plumb as you go. Go get a few rolls of "masons twine" for straight lines. These lines will not lie to you!
Use your level and string lines as you progress up to the top where your header will be. When using a string line I like to space it out where you fasten it to the corners (usually with a 2x4) off the post so that you'll need an equal thickness "guage block" to check your wall. You can move the string up with your work.
With everything as square and level as you can get it, get a good dimension that is the top of the header across to the other side (where your trussus will sit) This might have to be an average of the entire legnth of the wall, but if your real good the number will be the same the entire legnth.
Now line your trusses up on the ground, flat, so that all the edges are in line and mark your wall dimension that you measured earlier on to them. Wether you mark them at the outside of the beam (header) or the inside, it doesn't matter just as long as it is where you measured to. If you can, set about 3 or 4 at each end paying close attention to your marks, tie them togher (each group) and brace them off well, and put a string at the "tails" of these across the whole wall. From this point you can set to the string or use both the string and the marks. Every now and then have the good look at your progress and watch the truss peak, overhangs etc. Your eyes won't lie either! Take your time and be safe, I will not try to describe it here but look online or some where (the trusses should come with bracing instr.) to find out how to properly diagonally brace your trusses. Be sure that you have enough 2x4x16 around, you'll be suprised you could go thru 30pc real quick.
You may want to have a few guys there that do this for a living. good luck!
Use your level and string lines as you progress up to the top where your header will be. When using a string line I like to space it out where you fasten it to the corners (usually with a 2x4) off the post so that you'll need an equal thickness "guage block" to check your wall. You can move the string up with your work.
With everything as square and level as you can get it, get a good dimension that is the top of the header across to the other side (where your trussus will sit) This might have to be an average of the entire legnth of the wall, but if your real good the number will be the same the entire legnth.
Now line your trusses up on the ground, flat, so that all the edges are in line and mark your wall dimension that you measured earlier on to them. Wether you mark them at the outside of the beam (header) or the inside, it doesn't matter just as long as it is where you measured to. If you can, set about 3 or 4 at each end paying close attention to your marks, tie them togher (each group) and brace them off well, and put a string at the "tails" of these across the whole wall. From this point you can set to the string or use both the string and the marks. Every now and then have the good look at your progress and watch the truss peak, overhangs etc. Your eyes won't lie either! Take your time and be safe, I will not try to describe it here but look online or some where (the trusses should come with bracing instr.) to find out how to properly diagonally brace your trusses. Be sure that you have enough 2x4x16 around, you'll be suprised you could go thru 30pc real quick.
You may want to have a few guys there that do this for a living. good luck!
sksmsllc
Silver Member
Thanks for all the tips....I have concrete being poured friday so i will have more pictures to come.
What is the maximum distance i can space my girts for my walls?? I was gonna do it at 24" on center but if i can get away with a little farther spaceing to save me some money on the lumber i will do that....just looking for any way to save me some money but still have the strength of a expensive barn
What is the maximum distance i can space my girts for my walls?? I was gonna do it at 24" on center but if i can get away with a little farther spaceing to save me some money on the lumber i will do that....just looking for any way to save me some money but still have the strength of a expensive barn
Rustyiron
Super Member
I would keep them at 2' centers up to 8' wall height just for the additional stregnth down where things may get bumped, you may find that you want to (later) add either a 4' or 8' lining of 4x8 OSB or plywood for a liner on the inside depending on your use. Above that I don't think that 32" would be stretching it too far.
davedj1
Veteran Member
I usualy set blocks for the header to sit on, they are put on using a laser so I know they are straight. I built a small bracket out of 2" angle iron that has a little jib on it, it anchors to the top of a pole, I then hook the winch cable to the jib and winch one end up, then the other unless the beam can be lifted at the center fairly easy.
I gonna be using a 2x10 for the header.... So i will have to measure up 16 foot from the top of the skirt board make a mark then measure down the post 10 inch or 9 3/4 inch and nail a 2x6 to the post so the header can have something to rest on while im nailing the header up. Because i would think nailing a 2x10 16 feet in the air will be kinda hard to get level.
davedj1
Veteran Member
yup, sounds about right. I build them with the help of lasers. How close are the posts? I'm not sure 2 x 10 would fly here unless the posts are close and you put them inside and out.
The posts are spaced different spacing for each one to align for the trusses... THe farthest post spaceing is 12 foot. I will have double trusses sandwiched on each side of the post so the header shouldn't be holding much weight.
