Building a blade to move the earth

[slowzuki]

Well, try looking at degelman and leon front blades, it will give you an idea. Cheapest would be to get a rear blade off craigslist and mount it up front.

 

[EMB5530]

I was thinkin bout getin a rear blade and fabin from there but I would like one a bit talller like a snow blade. dunno i'll shop around for a bit and see what I can find as far as blades go and figure it out from there

 

[Taylortractornut]

I built a couple over te years using 24 and 30 inch pipe. One was on a 2555 JD 2wd and the other was on a 4000 Ford 2wd. The one for the 2555 got a pinn on rake later. THey wont push alot of dirt like a dozer but coult push a fair amount. Both tractors the owners used a chisel plow on back for ballast and ripping the ground ahead of cuts.
The blades were really good in the woods as both owners were small time loggers. They didnt get in the way like a loader did and were a little better shoving things out of the way. If you want a blade to move more earth and level really well build a trailed behinde box scraper

 

[GPintheMitten]

Two words (and a pic)

Box Blade

 

[Rio_Grande]

I am in the same boat. I need a 6 way blade for our skid steer but it is for personal use cutting trails through the woods and cleaning out ditches. dont want to pay 3000.00 for something that will see a few hours use a year.

What I was thinking is I have a 120 gallon propane tank that has a decent curve to it. If i cut it a little smaller than half I could fab brackets to get it to the point of mounting. Then I have to figure out the tilt and swing. neither should be too bad. Just have to build it tough.

Now thinking how simple this should be,,,, sounds like a lot of work for something my 80hp skid steer may bend like a pretzel.

 

[BHD]

this was on a very small tractor, but I ran two arms under the tractor and made a block that I would use a hitch pin in the draw bar, I use two guides to keep it straight, in front and a place to lift it with,

I use a old tank for the blade, and I kinda did the snow plow thing with a pivot point at the very bottom only about 2" from the bottom so that If I did hit some thing really solid it would flip the blade, it was spring loaded,

it worked well was alway going to build one for the large tractor but never have, as of yet,

 

[smiley]

This is Max making a return appearance here. He's a 100 hp apprx 10,000 lb Massey Ferguson 399 4wd, fitted out with 50 ton winch and forestry package. Here he has a heavy duty plow blade that cost me $300 with all hydraulics, mounts etc. I use it in snow or dirt and did all the dozer work for my new 26x48 ft pole barn with it, leveling and driveways. I used the standard angling plow mount frame under the front end but reinforced it with 3" pipes running back to u channel brackets on the rear axle. When pushing dirt with it I simply use 2 chains from the top of the blade to the plow frame so it can't tip forward like it is supposed to when you hit something while snowplowing. I use regular 3/8 bolts as shear bolts to hold the chain that will break it I hit something really solid. As it has no down pressure, it's cutting ability is limited but works great in pushing loose material around. I'm going to put a sideboard on the left side this winter to be able to make long pushes down my 350 ft driveway.
If the snow gets too deep I fitted it out with a front mount blower last year that you can see at;
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/187397-max-snow-beast-finished.html

 

[EMB5530]

This is Max making a return appearance here. He's a 100 hp apprx 10,000 lb Massey Ferguson 399 4wd, fitted out with 50 ton winch and forestry package. Here he has a heavy duty plow blade that cost me $300 with all hydraulics, mounts etc. I use it in snow or dirt and did all the dozer work for my new 26x48 ft pole barn with it, leveling and driveways. I used the standard angling plow mount frame under the front end but reinforced it with 3" pipes running back to u channel brackets on the rear axle. When pushing dirt with it I simply use 2 chains from the top of the blade to the plow frame so it can't tip forward like it is supposed to when you hit something while snowplowing. I use regular 3/8 bolts as shear bolts to hold the chain that will break it I hit something really solid. As it has no down pressure, it's cutting ability is limited but works great in pushing loose material around. I'm going to put a sideboard on the left side this winter to be able to make long pushes down my 350 ft driveway.
If the snow gets too deep I fitted it out with a front mount blower last year that you can see at;
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/187397-max-snow-beast-finished.html

Thats one mean lookin machine:thumbsup:

 

[ArtMech]

Check this like an idea.
?? ????? / KUBOTA M5000 Tractor , Koh Samui Thailand - YouTube

 

[EMB5530]

Check this like an idea.
?? ????? / KUBOTA M5000 Tractor , Koh Samui Thailand - YouTube

Exactly what I had in mind:thumbsup:

Dont know if I wanna go through the effort of making it tilt though.
Oh well gotta get the tractor home b4 I do anything.

Ideas Ideas Ideas